Showing all 20 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
18 | Marching Orders
The upper L end of the L cliff is a pinnacle. Start up short, wide corner crack below chimney separating pinnacle from buttress to its R. Step R onto buttress and climb prominent crack with 2 steep sections. Take large cam [BD#4] FA: Chris Baxter, David Gairns & Kieran Loughran FFA: 1996 | 20m | |||
15 | Rick's Chicks
| 18m | |||
18 | Sonic Boom
Take (very) large pro. Follow Nerve Gas until you can move right to foot of prominent, left-facing corner-crack. Up it. FA: David Gairns, Cassandra Azzaro, Chris Baxter & Michael Stone, 1996 | 30m | |||
18 | Black Rock
And the beat goes on; excellent and sustained. Slab 15m right of Nerve Gas to left-facing corner with thin crack (#2, #3 RPs). Corner to first roof. Swing right to next line. Pass huge, loose block on its right side. Up. FA: Chris Baxter, David Gairns & Michael Stone, 1996 | 30m | |||
15 | Pension Day
Crack in right wall of corner 2m right of Black Rock. Follow hollow flakes up and left to join that route. FA: Michael Stone, Chris Baxter & David Gairns, 1996 | 30m | |||
20 | Spare Ribs
Brilliant and sustained face climbing with good pro. Up pair of small corners on rib 2m right of Pension Day. Step up left from ledge near top for dramatic exit to final (easy) section of Black Rock. FA: David Gairns, Chris Baxter & Michael Stone, 1996 | 30m | |||
18 | Dawn Patrol
Excellent and extremely sustained climbing. On left cliff at left end of steep section, immediately right of slabs. Climb weakness leading towards mantel at 8m in this black line, but at 5m go up left for 2m to next line, a shallow, left-facing corner with a slabby left wall. Corner to big, loose block (care!), then steep crack to ledge with tree. Finish up right arête. FA: Wayne Maher & Chris Baxter, 1996 | 30m | |||
19 | Permachalk
May be easier with a clean, but has one pretty dicey move as it stands. Good. Line, starting at left-facing corner 8m right of Dawn Patrol. (Fourth line from right end of left cliff.) From ledge at top of corner climb line, moving very slightly right after hard section. FA: Wayne Maher & Chris Baxter, 1996 | 30m | |||
17 | Black Lace Bra
Third line from right end of left cliff, with tree at 12m. From top of crack step right and climb middle of buttress. FA: Chris Baxter & Geoff Gledhill, 1996 | 30m | |||
16 | Red, Red Wine
Good. Line at right end of left cliff, starting from block. Tricky start, then crack above, veering very slightly right above steep section. FA: Wayne Maher & Chris Baxter, 1996 | 30m | |||
18 | Air Play
Starts 20m right of the central descent gully, at the corner (with a zig-zag crack in the right wall). Up the corner and over a ledge and then the corner above to the top. (I presume that the corner in this photo is Air Play? I might be wrong). FA: Wayne Maher, Derek Vissor & Anne Vissor, 1989 | 25m | |||
24 | ★ Daniel Tradcliffe LHV
As for DTD, instead move left and up at the overlap near the top. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 21 Sep 2020 | 18m | |||
24 | ★ Daniel Tradcliffe Direct
Crack that splits the grey and orange walls. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 21 Sep 2020 | 18m | |||
27 | ★★ Conditions of My Parole
The obvious Arapilesean sleazefest through the cave. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 26 Feb 2021 | 20m | |||
17 | ★ Hanging on the Telephone
Starts 10m right of the cave. Originally described as a 40m two pitch route. Climb up towards the large flake, carefully move right on hollow rock to gain the line which ends up on top of the flake. Move left then finish up the easy corner above. FA: Derek Vissor & Wayne Maher, 1989 | 25m | |||
24 | ★★ Impasse
Takes the line up the middle of the buttress. Gain the crack in the middle of the wall, before stepping left to a poor stance before the rooflet. Steep moves past jugs and flakes lead to small stance, after which a few tough moves take you to the lower off. FA: Wayne Maher & Glen Donohue, 1989 FFA: CA & Christopher Glastonbury, 21 Sep 2020 | 25m | |||
19 | The Cracks of My Tears
FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 14 Nov 2015 | 25m | |||
21 | Bitter and Twisted, That's for Sure
Starts at far right end of main cliff in middle of second-last block. Take wall left of black groove to first ledge at 3m. Traverse left to crack that splits block. A long reach leads to next horizontal, past BR, then follow seam up wall, right near top. FA: Geoff Butcher, 1997 | 23m | |||
15 | A Twist of Lemming
FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 14 Nov 2015 | 25m | |||
15 | Will Improve With Traffic
At right end of the right wall is prominent buttress. Corner on its right side, entered from right. FA: James McIntosh, Wayne Maher & andrew webb, 1998 | 25m |
Showing all 20 routes.