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Quite good climbing and relatively easy access. A nice spot for a spring or autumn afternoon when it catches the sun.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Halls Gap Area

A low profile always helps to avoid too much attention from tourists and park rangers


This is a fairly square cut block overlooking the National Park visitors centre. 1. Approach from the end of Tanderra Rd. Cross the bridge over Fyans Creek then head R and up to the jeep track. Follow this South [R] until it climbs to a saddle. Head up hill from here to the cliff. About 20 mins

  1. From the bridge at the back SE corner of the Grampians National Park Visitors Centre [Brambuk] follow the track across the cleared area to the trees. 50m into the trees head R then veer L to follow the L side of a gully up hill to the 4wd track. Walk L on this until about 100m beyond a creek gully. Head uphill tom the cliff. 15-20 mins.
© (willmonks)

Ethic inherited from Halls Gap Area

Bolting, is considered illicit, along with the rest of the park and other National Parks within Victoria. Only alter routes after considerable consultation with first ascensionests and local climbers.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Around the LH end of the cliff on its North face. A strenuous diagonal, the LH of 2.

FA: Chris Baxter & Stuart Imer, 1993

Crack a few metres down and R of TCL.

FA: Chris Baxter, John Pawson & Meg Taylor, 1993

1M L of C&B. Up short wall then R facing corner and steep crack. 1 rest.

FA: Graeme Smith, Waybe Maher & James McIntosh, 2001

Looks a bit bold but the climbing should be good quality. Start up C&B but instead of stepping R continue up steep arete moving slightly R at the top.

FA: Graeme Smith, James McIntosh & Wayne Maher, 2001

Lovely, sustained and delicate face climbing. A BD4 comes in suprisingly handy low down. Takes the thin cracks and seams towards the LH edge of the main face. Start up on the L then step R and up seam.

FA: Chris Baxter, Stuart Imer, John Pawson & Meg Taylor, 1993

Terrific, balancy face climbing directly up the middle of the main face (the crocodile’s “scales”). The first half protects well with RP’s and #00 cams. (The FA used 4 x #00 cams of different brands, two with a range of 8.5-12mm, two with 10-14mm). The second half takes medium cams. If you don’t have the gear or the confidence in it, there are good natural top-rope anchors at the top. Start 1m to the right of Checks and Balances on the left edge of the main face. At the first horizontal, lean right to get a solid small RP placement in the first vertical seam, then set off up the middle of the face. After the crux, continue up the centre of the face to finish at the LH end of the overlap.

FFA: Martin Jackson, 11 Jun

The flake crack/corner just R of CP.

FA: Chris Baxter, Greg Aimer, Sue Baxter & Christina Freestone, 1993

Line up front of buttress R of 'Brass Razoo'.

FA: James McIntosh & Wayne Maher, 2001

The R facing corner R of the FB buttress gives a good sustained bridging and jamming route.

FA: Greg Aimer, Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter & Chrisina Freestone., 1993

Nice technical crack 2m R of EM.

FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1993

Major crack in middle of face.

FA: Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter & Christina Freestone, 1993

Towards the RH side of the main face are two lines. THe LH one.

FA: John Pawson, Chris Baxter, Stuart Imer & Meg Taylor, 1993

Line 1m R of 'Unnamed' and 2m L of arete.

FA: Chris Baxter, Stuart Imer, John Pawson & Meg Taylor., 1993

Line in South face just R of arete, rather loose and unpleasant. Crack to steep seam, step L around arete and up easily. [Seam has been top roped direct at about 21]

FA: John Pawson, Chris Baxter, Stuart Imer & Meg Taylor, 1993

Around the RH edge of the cliff. The RH hand crack line leading to a steep offwidth finish [BD 5].

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jerry Maddox & Peter Cody, 15 Jan 2015


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