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Access issues

The bridge at the back SE corner of the Grampians National Park Visitors Centre [Brambuk] gives easy access to a number of small cliffs of mostly good clean rock low on the facing hillside. The cliffs are all clearly visible from in front of the Visitors Centre. Cross the bridge and in front of you there is a long broken cliff line across the spur between 2 major gullies. The blocks just before the RH gully are The Pinnacles. From the bridge follow the walking track across the cleared area to the trees. 50m into the trees head R then veer L to follow the L side of a gully up hill to the 4wd track. Walk R on this and at the first high point head up hill and R to The Pinnacles. About 15 minutes to the lower cliff which is on the spur just before the hill drops into the RH gully.

Ethic inherited from Halls Gap Area

Bolting, is considered illicit, along with the rest of the park and other National Parks within Victoria. Only alter routes after considerable consultation with first ascensionests and local climbers.

History

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I believe this cliff was first visited by Chris Baxter in 2007. According to a list of cliffs and routes around Halls Gap which Chris wrote but which was published in Argus after his death whatever routes he did on this cliff were not written up. He tantalisingly listed just one route “Year of the Cat” but never wrote it up as far as I am aware. It is possible that some of these routes were first climbed by Chris.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The lowest point of the cliff is an excellent buttress of clean grey rock with 3 good lines up it [and a dirty chimney in the middle]. Similar to a more limited Pastoral Buttress. The LH line.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 14 Dec 2013

The RH crack on the main face, lovely rock, moves and gear.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 14 Dec 2013

R of MG, a corner with a roof. Up a few meters to small wire crack in corner, a couple of aids [will definitely go free] to the roof. Swing up on jams to follow the steadily widening crack.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 14 Dec 2013

Just R of FoY is a pinnacle. Head R past this and uphill about 20m to the foot of a slabby wall which is the front of another pinnacle. Take the short dirty RH seam [crux] to a bushy ledge. Follow cracks and flakes near the RH arête of the pinnacle to belay just below the summit spire. Abb carefully into gully from large rounded bollard.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 14 Nov 2013

Above the lower cliff is a band of broken buttresses. Above these is a short cliff line. Best approached from 100m L of the lower cliff by following a R leaning ramp though the the broken buttresses. The cliff has two tall buttresses with a lower wall between them. 15m L of the LH tall buttress a short wall leading to a tree. Up seams for 5m, then step L to ledge on L arête, up to tree.

FA: Peter Cody, Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 4 Jan 2014

Start below the L edge of the LH tall buttress. Up grooves moving R ward to follow a short corner to the roof. Traverse R and take crack through overhang to top. Descend to trees on R and abb off.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody & Jerry Maddox, 4 Jan 2014

Start below the R edge of the LH tall buttress. Short groove then flakes to thin crack heading into gully. Abb off trees.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody & Jerry Maddox, 4 Jan 2014

Good one. The crack up the middle of the wall between the 2 higher buttresses. Abb off trees

FA: Jerry Maddox, Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 4 Jan 2014

At the R edge of the main cliff is a crack with a prominent block sticking out of it. The crux is negotiating the block and it may not be all that well attached! Head L behind pinnacle and abb off trees.

FA: Peter Cody, Jerry Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 4 Jan 2014

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Pinnacles.