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Description

Another small cliff with easy access from Halls Gap

Access issues inherited from Halls Gap Area

A low profile always helps to avoid too much attention from tourists and park rangers

Approach

From Delley's Bridge follow walking track beside Fyans Creek until about 120m beyond Boulder Rock. Walk uphill for 60m to the LH end of a large slab. Scramble up and R along this below the headwall on which the climbs are located. Take care on this scramble in wet conditions.

Ethic inherited from Halls Gap Area

Bolting, is considered illicit, along with the rest of the park and other National Parks within Victoria. Only alter routes after considerable consultation with first ascensionests and local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Good varied little climb. Crack 10m R of L end of cliff.

FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter & Pia Larque, 2007

Start at the obvious holds and features on the steep wall 10m R of LA. Up to bulge near top then R below this to finish straight up.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Glen Donohue, 2007

Steep and bold face climbing. Pull on to the wall at the small cave 6m R of High Sally Tations and 3m L of R arête of face. Up and L past three breaks to finish as for HST. More logically start at the holds 4m R of High Sally etc then up and L as above.

FA: Wayne Maher & Chris Baxter, 25 Apr 2008

Unexpectedly straightforward, this climb has uniquely featured holds. Pull up on to the undercut face 3m R of AW, on arête. Up and slightly R to ledge. Step L and climb L side of arête.

FA: Chris Baxter, Pia Larque & Wayne Maher, 27 Apr 2008

About 30m R of the LH end of cliff is a major broken corner. Up steep L leaning crack 10m R of this [rotten rock]. At top of crack traverse 3m L to small corner, up this.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2006

Up to and up steep R.facing flake starting 1m R of Leif. Finish straight up.

FA: Chris Baxter & Wayne Maher, 25 Apr 2008

Undercut, gung-ho start from beside old fairy martins’ nests (landmark) 10m R of DD, then face above, moving very slightly R. The large starting holds are decidedly suspect.

FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter & Pia Larque, 27 Apr 2008

Thin crack with R leading flake heading out of it. Climb the thin crack.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 2006

The R leading flake starting as for BTIC.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 2006

Start just R of TB. Pull over bulge then climb vague rib between BTIC and TB.

FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter & Pia Larque, 2007

Sustained and fingery face-climbing up the pair of L-leaning seams 5 m R of the major, broken corner which, in turn, is 5 m R of Travel Bug. Pronounced bulge at 5 m.

FA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 10 May 2008

Near RH end of ledge a diagonal line leads up R under overlaps. Follow this to vertical crack [TT]. Cont. up R in thin diagonal to vertical corner, finish up this.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 2006

3m R of NVP. Up to and up short vertical crack, turn rooflet above and cont up pimply seam.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 2006

Start at steep flakes round the arête and 12m R of Throwing in the Towel (2m R of eucalypt), then L up ramp. One of the better routes of the cliff, quite varied and interesting.

FA: Chris Baxter, Pia Larque & Wayne Maher, 27 Apr 2008

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