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Description

Surprisingly good collection of accessible routes. Deserves to be popular.

Access issues inherited from Halls Gap Area

A low profile always helps to avoid too much attention from tourists and park rangers

Approach

From Delleys Bridge follow walking track up S side of Fyans Creek until a high point in the track about 200m beyond the obvious landmark Boulder Rock. An old indistinct track with some rope markers and cairns leads up L from here. About 15 mins walk from road. Easy descent at LH end of cliff. This cliff can be seen from Halls Gap and is only about 150m from the nearest houses across Fyans Creek from it. When the cliff is dry it could possibly be approached directly from the town.

Ethic inherited from Halls Gap Area

Bolting, is considered illicit, along with the rest of the park and other National Parks within Victoria. Only alter routes after considerable consultation with first ascensionests and local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Good sustained climbing. A bit runout, take small gear. Climb diagonal finger crack above block at foot of upper L end of cliff. Now boldly up and diagonally R

FA: Jen Stone, Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2006

Steep and exciting climbing on positive holds. Start 3m down and R of DH. Climb steep wall then finish up the blunt arête above between DH and CR.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Chris Baxter, 2006

Tricky start to gain the main line of the cliff. Up to small overhang 2m R of HP, R to line, then up and L in line.

FA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2006

Links together possibly the cleanest rock on the cliff. Starts as for CRC at reachy R leading overlap. R into line, up, then take tricky R leading line across wall for 5m. Then straight up wall, finishing up blunt arete.

FA: Goshen Watts, 21 May 2016

Major diagonal line immediately L of small cave at foot of face 20m R of CC. Balancy start then seam to bulge. Continue up L leaning line to exit gully.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter & Jen Stone, 2006

Major diagonal line starting 5m R of GB. Committing unprotected start up seam then sustained diagonal line to join Sparks Victoria at its large tree. A better protected option is to start up Sparks Vic then step L into BB at 4m. Probably grade 16 done this way.

FA: Stehen Hamilton, Chris Baxter & Zoe Hamilton, 2006

Major diagonal line finishing above large tree. Up crack 3m R of BB and immediately L of recessed yellow wall at R end of cliff. Line to tree. Up

FA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2006

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