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Labour Ward

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Summary

A good beginners area with bolt protected easy climbs leading to lower offs.

Description

This is the slab below The Garretts.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Approach

From Delley's Bridge follow the walking track along Fyans Creek for about 600m until about 100m past Boulder Rock. Look for a large sawn log on the track edge. Head uphill 50m to the LH end of the slabs.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

At the LH end of the slabs is a clean streak. Up onto the ramp [FH], move slightly R then up the streak past 3 FH to DBB. There is a slightly harder start to the R heading straight up to the 2nd FH.

FA: David Lia & Margaret Shannon, 2 Jul 2017

Starts 2m right of “Kitty’s Litter”. Up blank slab direct, tending left toward KL’s 3rd bolt. Finishes up “Kitty’s Litter

The bolted line R of Kitty's Litter. Straight up the slab avoiding the loose flakes on the right past 2FH to rings.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody & Katherine Matic, 8 Apr 2017

Next bolted line right of L’Accoucher. Up past 2FH then left to rings on L'Accoucher.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody & Katherine Matic, 8 Apr 2017

22m R of Footling Precipitation. Up onto the flake then up past 3FH to a DB and rings. Lower off.

FA: Philip Armstrong & David Lia, 17 Apr 2016

Next line of bolts to the R. Up past 3FH [the top one is shared with FS] to DB and rings.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 24 Apr 2016

Starts 2m left of the “Dunny Brush of Doom”. Direct up wall to tight end of the mossy ledge at around 5m. Move up steepening wall around 2m left of the of DBoDs 1st bolt. Trad gear up 1m left of past DBoDs 2nd bolt, meeting DBoD at its 3rd bolt. Can place trad in high flake and traverse left to anchor as for DBoD. Lower off 2 rings.

About 7m R of The Crowning. Climb up onto small flake then up buttress past 2FH to a small ledge. Up and L past 3rd FH then traverse L to DB and rings. [It is possible to protect the traverse L with a medium wire behind a flake]

FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody & David Lia, 24 Apr 2016

Start below the crack at the right hand edge of the Dunny Brush of Doom buttress. Up into foot of crack [can be protected by a medium wire]. Step right and up past 3 FH to lower off rings.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody, Kathy Matic & David Lia, 18 Dec 2016

The bolted line up the clean streak just right of Forced Labour. Thin moves past the first FH then up past 2 more FHs to lower off rings.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 29 May 2016

Just right of Forceps Delivery is a thin left leaning crack. Up crack past a FH. Continue up past the second FH to a scoop. Step left to join Forceps Delivery at its third FH. Up to lower off rings.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 18 Dec 2016

Just right of Gimme de Gas. Up past three bolts moving right to the rings above Ill Nome della Rosa. A medium wire can also be used to protect the moves above the second bolt if required.

FA: Philip Armstrong, David Lia, Peter Cody & Kathy Matic, 25 Mar 2017

5m right of The Perambulator. Up the short flake and the face above past 2FH to ledge and lower off rings.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody, Katherine Matic, Rose Kinley & David Lia, 13 Mar 2017

Start as for M.D. From the second bolt on M.D. move left up to and over the overlap finishing at lower offs past 3 more bolts.

FFA: Bernie Whitelock, Peter Cody & Jerry Maddox, 6 Sep

10m right of Il Nome Dela Rosa. A faint right facing seam starts about 1 metre above a large flat block leaning toward the cliff. Step onto the small ledge and delicately up to the overlap. Over this on the right and up right to lower offs.

FA: Bernie Whitelock, Peter Cody, Kathy Matic & Philip Armstrong

Starts 2m right of FD/MD. Up wall from top of fallen block, staying left of the moss. Move right to gain seam at about 5m, moving right of this and then tending right to stay alongside left of the moss. Follow small edges to anchors of MD.

Project. No bolts please.

Starts 3m right of “Labour Day”. Up wall past small feature, following cleanest rock to highest point.

Project. No bolts please.

Starts 1m left of landmark corner of “Out of Lockdown”. Climbs direct up the wall to blank slab above ledge height. Tend right to join “Return to Lockdown” for the final few metres.

Project. No bolts please.

10m right of Mother’s Day there is a ‘step’ at the foot of the cliff with a large ledge atop it. The following routes have short first pitches up this step, starting with the obvious corner crack of Out of Lockdown. It is also possible to walk onto or off the ledge from the right hand end. Any belay on the ledge requires trad gear.

10m right of Mother's Day is a short left facing corner crack. Jam corner to big ledge. Move right a few metres. Pull up the blank slab into the corner (a hard move for short people). Follow the corner system up right to a good ledge with lower offs.

FA: Peter Cody & Bernie Whitelock

Essentially this is a first pitch to Midwife Crisis. The arete immediately right of the first crack of "Out of Lockdown" at ground level. A fun bouldery little arete up past 2 fixed hangars. Finish on the grassy ledge - cams for anchors if you want them. (p1). Previously described by G Baxter as "Return to Lockdown" but not actually completed by him.

FFA: Phil Armstrong; Kathy Matic; Bernie Whitelock, 28 Nov

Straight above F.T.M. Can be combined with F.T.M. as one pitch but watch the landing if you fall off clipping the first bolt. Climb the sustained wall past 4 fixed hangars to lower offs. Previously described by G Baxter as "Return to Lockdown" but not actually completed by him.

FA: Bernie Whitelock, Phil Armstrong, Kathy Matic & Phil Armstrong, 2 Dec

Starts 2m right of “Out of Lockdown”. Up arete of block and up to ledge. From ledge, up the main face to top.

Project. No bolts please.

Starts 5m right of “Out of Lockdown” corner. Up the cleaner streak in the moss to ledge at around 5m. Can belay here or continue up in one pitch. Up face right of “Out of Lockdown” and finishing at the anchor. DBB

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2009

ISBN: 958733147

With North Gramps, The Black Range, Central Gramps, Halls Gap, Sth East Gramps and the Victoria Range areas covered, you'll have no shortage of inspiration at your disposal. With 800 routes, full colour maps and topos as well as heaps of additional info, this guide will have you sorted.

Author(s): Neil Monteith and Simon Carter

Date: 2015

ISBN: 9780994278401

Neil Monteith and Simon Carter took no time to rest after the release of their 2013 Sport Crags edition and have now release a more comprehensive guide also covering several popular trad and multipitch areas. The guide contains 61 crags and 1200 routes and also includes the likes of Grey Green Walls, Central Buttress, Asses Ears and the popular beginners trad area of Summerday Valley which weren't covered in the Sport only edition. With all the motivating and awe-inspiring photos we've come to expect from Australia's premier climbing photographer Simon Carter, and easy to use layout including access maps and detailed topo's, you won't be left hanging.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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