Routes in Victoria Range for selected grade

Great adventure climbing. Climbs the big grey wall (Jimmy John's Wall) across the Eureka gully from Clean Cut Walls and directly below Eureka. From the Eureka gully, step right and up across a short ramp (5 meters), then straight up for 50 meters across low angled, highly feature and highly fun rock! Climb through the middle of the upper headwall (10 meters) via a short left facing corner and then up and right through the steep face to the top of the wall. The climb can be done in one 70 meter pitch, but it may be preferable to belay in the middle of the low angled wall as the upper headwall is steap and gear can be difficult to place. Descend by walking straight back to the Eureka Wall, which will place you at the bottom of Veggie Maths.

Great pocketed corner line. Accessed via fixed rope.

Left side of grey face. Bouldery at start. Drop a grade or two if you bridge up the tree.

Start at first bolt of closed project, then follow undercling traverse to arête then up and left in crack to lower off of Plat Du Jour

The bolted corner.

Worth doing for the second pitch experience (not!).

Start: Start under overhang at right end of wall.

1. 30m (16) Boulder the roof then up to ledge. Slither up through overhang. Up 1 metre right of faded guano streak. Up and past left end of grassy ledge (slings). Belay on arete.

2. 20m (1) Up.

Nice face-climbing which is better than it looks. Lots of wires and some small cams. Face starting 3 metres left of the corner of Contact to anchor of Special Circumstances at right end of roof system.

Short, attractive corner on right side of terrace on the right side of the gully. Looks good but is a bit brittle.

The short corner to large sloping ledge and up slightly left to anchor for Grey Area.

Good start but overall just something to loosen up on.

Start at the little face at on the right side of the gully.

Face past 4 bolts. Easy ground then up left side of arete to anchors.

Excellent grey wall five metres right of the arête of Up The Road. Start in juggy corner on right side of wall and climb this until you can hand traverse left along break at 3m. Climb the face above trending leftwards to finish up beautiful cracked headwall. Protection is sparse in middle section.

Start as for round the twist. Climb upwards over bulges trending right to left end of roof. Traverse right on horizontals over lip of roof to short crack. Up to overlap and right to arete. Wrap off, bring tat.

The good section is too short.

Start: Start about 8 metres right of "Calling Hop Harrigan" on the right arete of the face at a little yellow groove.

Black slab on right side of dark gully around left of "Hang Me High"

A bold, strong lead up the outstanding crack line at the left end of the huge cave.

1. 40m (16) Follow the crack, and sometimes the left wall, to a large ledge. The rock is better than it looks and improves as you get higher but has a touch of sea-cliff uncertainty.

2. 20m (-) Up awkward mega-jugs to a tree-filled gully. Scramble up gully to summit.

Well to the right of the huge cave and below the slabs of the descent route, is a steep band of rock leading up and left.

Quality easy climb lurking in HB territory.

Start off the block and follow the central line. Exit from the second ledge on the left.

Do the first few moves to the corner, then move left on to the arete. Take arete to crack and exit on first ledge.

Start: Start as for "Tabla".

Follow teh horizontal break then climb the wall between the scrappy flake/corner and the arete.

Spectacular stuff. Takes a hanging rib which bisects two big red caves, then a sweeping blade arete above. 'The caves' feature the roof climb "Path of Garth".

Start: Starts: On big cliff down and right of main 'Muline Crag'. From the car, walk up track as far as the second rocky outcrop. Skirt right 50m around base of outcrop to cliff.

1. 20m (16) A ramp leads out the right side of a scoop. Continue up orange bulging wall to base of rib.

2. 20m (16) Rib, then arete. Walk off left.

Excellent adventure climbing following the obvious curving line on the L end of the cliff. Generally sound rock and good holds compensate for the tasty steepness. Start at L end of wall at corner under roof.

1. 30m (crux) Up, then move out L to pass overhang. There’s a couple of steps back R to follow the line. Belay on ledge at half height.

2. 30m Continue up curving line to steep exit through notch.

3. 20m Scramble to the top or walk L along terrace to abseil bollard.

The first of three routes which are direct variants of 'Whipping Boy'. Start 6m R of Whipping Boy.

1. 37m (crux) Climb blunt arete under R end of roof. Pass roof and traverse L to line about 3m R of Whipping Boy. Up to SHB level with Whipping Boy’s belay ledge.

2. 30m Straight up, then veer R on buckets, before going up again to join Whipping Boy at the head-wall.

3. 20m As for Whipping Boy.

More of the same with less pro.

Climbing in superb positions up the most imposing line on the wall. The first ascent was completed in true Patagonian conditions; gale force winds, torrential rain and hail.

A pleasant mixture of slab climbing and exposed but juggy face-climbing. Start below central rib, on face R of 'bowl'. 1) 12m Climb the slab and veer R to belay at the L end of a ledge, at a tree. 2) 40m Go up L on to the slabby rib and climb it to the little roof. Go L and pull through the weakness. Up to the next roof, over it, and up cracks to the top.

Up the thin crack which forks at 3 metres. Take the left fork then trend left on the upper wall.

Start: On the east face.

The obvious crack splitting the middle buttress with an undercut start.

Up the small corner through a bulge, step right and continue up the next line.

Start: Start 5 metres right of a wide corner.

Not positively located

Wall to L of 'Kava Boy' 1) (16) Climb chimney between slab and wall, past first thrutchy section, then step right onto wall. Up wall, with rock getting better as height is gained, tending right to belay below small corner on near arête. 2) (16) Up corner, step left, then straight up wall to final off width crack, which can be avoided on the right. Descent via main wall walk off via major gully.

Mixed climbing with a short crux. The gully L of "Nice Knobs" is blocked by a black slab.

From chock-stone climb directly up to FH. Pull onto ramp and climb juggy orange headwall to top.

Flake crack at left end of wall.

Not very appetising and hopelessly contrived. 'Flake' (2 FHs), at right end of west wall.

Ron would be ashamed of this effort. left orange streak on wall right of 'Bottom Juice', then wall above to rap station.

On the South East face of the pinnacle is a bottomless wide crack. Up crack (crux) on good gear then head left up rampy corner. Finish up vertical crack on jugs. Rap from bolt anchors above Je Ne Parle Pas Francais.

4m Left of Grey Matter. Straight up to the top. First move is the crux. The rest of the climb is grade 12 up fragile featured wall. Pull over the right side of the red overhang.

Another worthless addition. Starts about 3m right of 'Wimbleton' at smooth part of grey wall. Up a few moves then right 2m. Follow easing seam, trending slightly left, to break overhang just right of the small red cave on 'Wimbleton'.

The shrubbery isn't as bad as it looks! On the left side of the entrance to the Marianas Trench there is a wide crack. From the ground, scramble up on jumbled blocks for 5 meters to gain the base of the crack. A couple of layback moves take you to a grassy ledge. Climb the slab on the left of the crack to avoid some vegetation before stepping back into the line and on to the top. A big cam (4 Camalot or similar) is useful.

The cliff splitting crack provides great climbing and equally great gear. When it ends, continue straight up to a scenic belay.

Start in the big cave below the window and climb the arete to the ledge. Step gently over the window then blast up the black groove to the anchors. Remarkably steep for the grade.

Start up a chimney-crack a few metres left of a large corner, passing on the outside of a big block. Exit right at the top of the chimney and veer up right on the surprising wall.

Climb to second bolt of 'Angry Arborist'. Rather than dynoing upwards, traverse left delicately to exposed swing onto arete. Up jugs to top.

Up right side of blunt arete (not using flake crack) to ledge then straight up.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Oxtail Soup"

Only a few good moves, but these are very good.

Start: Start about 30 metres left of "No Holds Barred"

Sit start, below the finish of 'Back, Sack & Crack' at a juggy horizontal rail. Up via the positive pockets.

Stand start at the jug around 3m left of 'Cookie Monster'. Up and right on good holds.

2m left of 'Half Baked'. Start at the flexing orange jug and head up.

4 metres right of Arrow Head.

3 metres right of Target Area. Finish up ramp.

Start at a big gum growing from black slab on north toe of outcrop. Up to hollow flakes, then right until a balancy move gains a diagonal and good holds above. Finish straight up and just right of the black streak.

Located on wall opposite the main Gallery cave. Climb obvious right facing wide corner or the face right of the corner passing one UB and two FH¹s. At the 2nd FH move right to doubly bolt lower off.

Unusual climbing up the centre of the wall left of "Blackberry Nip".

Crack 1 metre right of 'The Jig Is Up'

Left under flake 4 metres right of 'Stress Shared' to juggy bulge. Left to finish.

Climb the centre of the wall. The fingery start eases to pleasant bucket hauling.

Start: Just inside the wider, central chasm is a steep wall on the left.

Takes the centre of the face on block overlooking head of Green 'Gully'.

Lean over to incuts/jugs and bomber #0.4 placement. Cut loose swing over and climb up the orange streak. Bail slightly to the right, once the handholds run-out.

The giant flake on the wall between 'Slow Torture' and 'Skullcracker'. Gain the ledge below this flake by starting 8m right at weakness through rooflet (route was attempted direct but was abandoned when no pro and grade 23+ roof moves were encountered). Walk across sledge and then up nice orange wall until holds run out, look behind to see the big flake, stem onto it and jug easily on ledge. Up left to finish.

The left-facing prominent corner.

Start: Start about 25-30 metres left of "He Reviewed..." at a good line with a bulging crack start.

1. 35m (16) Steeply up the line and on past the tree into the corner. After a superb hand-crack, avoid a dirty, closed corner by traversing left. Go up and belay on any of a series of ledges

2. 30m (-) Move back right and climb the wall, tending right, going just past the left side of an overhang to belay in a large cave. Take care with the rock on this pitch.

3. 10m (-) Walk ro the right-hand end of the cave and go up through more bulges.

Wideish line marking left side of orange wall.

Steep start and finish but not all that great.

Start at undercut corner 20 metres right of Prague Spring.

Up the corner until near the roof then traverse left to the arete. Overhanging groove above leads to steep, dinnerplating rock.

Start 10 metres right of cleft.

1. 18m Pull through roof at obvious flake and easily up wall just left of small corner.

2. Up face of pillar directly above, then wall.

Start 35 metres right of wall of large knobs at right-leaning orange-edged flake-line. Up flake, or slab immediately right, to roof. Pull through roof immediately above flake and then on up past wedged block.

Right-facing corner 10 metres right of 'Fragile Feelings'. Up to top of corner, step right and up.

Directly up wall 2 metres left of Igreiga to the scoop on the right of the large triangular roof. Pull through roof on good holds, move left and up.

Start 1 metre left of right arete. Straight up for 15 metres. Traverse right at break to arete. Up.

Up flake 5 metres right of "Atom Ant" and then wall above.

Thin series of diagonal cracks about 5 metres to the left of the right-hand edge of wall.

Up the face on the right of the corner to a roof, through this and left into the main corner. Follow the crack line diagonally up right to an abseil tree.

Start: Start on the right side of the buttress, 10 metres right of If We Are Giants, at a corner with a triangular roof at half height.

Follow the cracks to the left end of the roof. Move up and right through the roof to finish up the line on the left side of the upper face.

Start: Start on the left of the buttress and 4 metres left of the central overhangs.

Up past solution pockets to small roof. Up the steepest section of roof to follow the vague arete above.

Start: Start as for JATTUGC

Up boulder on the right to traverse left across the face to bulge in the centre. Up the right side of bulge to thread runner and on to top.

Start: Start on the right-hand side of the grey face.

Up the right-hand groove then straight up.

Start: Start at the centre of the grey slab behind 'Grey Gold', 20 metres left of 'Scope Route'.

Start as for Diamonds in the Forest.

The arete, straight up.

Start 1 metres right of the left end of the wall which is inside the chasm on the Diamond Block. Staright up.

An atmospheric adventure up the left side of the main wall with a fair bit of loose rock in the upper half. Start behind the conifer 5m R of 'Napalm Sunday'. Up the grey slab then follow easy ramp L to steep orange cracks and through small roof. 'Excellent' view.