Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Eureka Area Eureka Wall | |||||
16 PG | Jimmy John's Direct
Great adventure climbing. Climbs the big grey wall (Jimmy John's Wall) across the Eureka gully from Clean Cut Walls and directly below Eureka. From the Eureka gully, step right and up across a short ramp (5 meters), then straight up for 50 meters across low angled, highly feature and highly fun rock! Climb through the middle of the upper headwall (10 meters) via a short left facing corner and then up and right through the steep face to the top of the wall. The climb can be done in one 70 meter pitch, but it may be preferable to belay in the middle of the low angled wall as the upper headwall is steap and gear can be difficult to place. Descend by walking straight back to the Eureka Wall, which will place you at the bottom of Veggie Maths. FFA: Phil Gruber & Jimmy Gruber, 21 Sep 2014 | 70m | |||
Eureka Area Clean Cut Walls | |||||
16 | ★★ Sleep No More
Great pocketed corner line. Accessed via fixed rope. FA: Emi K | 20m | |||
16 | ★ Chinese Bombs
Left side of grey face. Bouldery at start. Drop a grade or two if you bridge up the tree. FA: Kent Paterson, 2015 | 10m, 4 | |||
16 | ★ Thank God for the French
Start at first bolt of closed project, then follow undercling traverse to arête then up and left in crack to lower off of Plat Du Jour FA: Jimmy & Andreas Aachen, 16 Mar 2015 | 20m, 1 | |||
16 | ★ Brighten the Corners
The bolted corner. FA: Kent Paterson, 2015 | 10m, 5 | |||
Eureka Area Alkali Tide Wall | |||||
16 | The Alkali Tide
Worth doing for the second pitch experience (not!). Start: Start under overhang at right end of wall.
FA: Wade Stevens & Tim Day, 1996 | 50m, 2 | |||
Eureka Area Weirs Creek | |||||
16 | ★ Grey Area
Nice face-climbing which is better than it looks. Lots of wires and some small cams. Face starting 3 metres left of the corner of Contact to anchor of Special Circumstances at right end of roof system. FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2011 | 12m | |||
16 | ★ Contact
Short, attractive corner on right side of terrace on the right side of the gully. Looks good but is a bit brittle. The short corner to large sloping ledge and up slightly left to anchor for Grey Area. FA: Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 2010 | 12m | |||
16 | ★ Mailorder Bribe
Good start but overall just something to loosen up on. Start at the little face at on the right side of the gully. Face past 4 bolts. Easy ground then up left side of arete to anchors. FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2010 | 15m, 6 | |||
Eureka Area Gondwanaland | |||||
16 R | ★★ Grit Life
Excellent grey wall five metres right of the arête of Up The Road. Start in juggy corner on right side of wall and climb this until you can hand traverse left along break at 3m. Climb the face above trending leftwards to finish up beautiful cracked headwall. Protection is sparse in middle section. FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2003 | 20m | |||
Eureka Area The Lost World | |||||
16 | ★ Sorroson
Start as for round the twist. Climb upwards over bulges trending right to left end of roof. Traverse right on horizontals over lip of roof to short crack. Up to overlap and right to arete. Wrap off, bring tat. FA: Peter Bovino & Soren Netz | 25m | |||
Mt Fox Area Jungle Gym | |||||
16 | Varicose Vines
The good section is too short. Start: Start about 8 metres right of "Calling Hop Harrigan" on the right arete of the face at a little yellow groove. FA: Chris Baxter & Ian Ravenscroft, 1988 | 20m | |||
16 | ★ The Tour
Black slab on right side of dark gully around left of "Hang Me High" FA: Neil Monteith, Geoff Butcher & Marten Blumen, 2001 | 20m, 1 | |||
Mt Fox Area Mount Cactus | |||||
16 X | The Scream
A bold, strong lead up the outstanding crack line at the left end of the huge cave.
FA: Andy Long, Gordon Talbett (alt) & james McIntosh, 1994 | 60m, 2 | |||
16 | Untitled Route
Well to the right of the huge cave and below the slabs of the descent route, is a steep band of rock leading up and left. FA: James McIntosh, Gordon Talbett & Andy Long, 1994 | 25m | |||
Mt Fox Area Muline Creek | |||||
16 | ★ Jungle Drums
Quality easy climb lurking in HB territory. FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 1995 | 30m | |||
16 | Tabla
Start off the block and follow the central line. Exit from the second ledge on the left. FA: Geoff Butcher, 1995 | 22m | |||
16 | Bongo Bonanza
Do the first few moves to the corner, then move left on to the arete. Take arete to crack and exit on first ledge. Start: Start as for "Tabla". FA: Geoff Butcher, 1995 | 22m | |||
16 | Oooga Booga
Follow teh horizontal break then climb the wall between the scrappy flake/corner and the arete. FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2000 | 20m | |||
Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | |||||
16 | Tattoos of Memories
Spectacular stuff. Takes a hanging rib which bisects two big red caves, then a sweeping blade arete above. 'The caves' feature the roof climb "Path of Garth". Start: Starts: On big cliff down and right of main 'Muline Crag'. From the car, walk up track as far as the second rocky outcrop. Skirt right 50m around base of outcrop to cliff.
FA: Tim & Keith Lockwood (alt), 2006 | 40m, 2 | |||
Mt Fox Area Emu Rock | |||||
16 | ★★ Whipping Boy
Excellent adventure climbing following the obvious curving line on the L end of the cliff. Generally sound rock and good holds compensate for the tasty steepness. Start at L end of wall at corner under roof.
FA: Chris Baxter & Maureen Gallagher (alt) Sue Baxter, 1987 | 80m | |||
16 | ★ Wallscrawl
The first of three routes which are direct variants of 'Whipping Boy'. Start 6m R of Whipping Boy.
FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1988 | 87m | |||
16 | Mother Superior
More of the same with less pro. FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1989 | 90m | |||
16 | ★★★ Patagonia
Climbing in superb positions up the most imposing line on the wall. The first ascent was completed in true Patagonian conditions; gale force winds, torrential rain and hail. FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1988 | 130m | |||
16 | ★★ Patagonia direct finish
FA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1991 | 60m | |||
Mt Fox Area Hollywood Bowl | |||||
16 | ★★ Arrows of Desire
A pleasant mixture of slab climbing and exposed but juggy face-climbing. Start below central rib, on face R of 'bowl'. 1) 12m Climb the slab and veer R to belay at the L end of a ledge, at a tree. 2) 40m Go up L on to the slabby rib and climb it to the little roof. Go L and pull through the weakness. Up to the next roof, over it, and up cracks to the top. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1987 | 52m | |||
Mt Fox Area Hollywood Valley | |||||
16 | Brewers' Droop
Up the thin crack which forks at 3 metres. Take the left fork then trend left on the upper wall. Start: On the east face. FA: James McIntosh & Jerry Maddox, 1993 | 15m | |||
Mt Fox Area Loose Rock - Candy Outcrop | |||||
16 | Violet Crumble
The obvious crack splitting the middle buttress with an undercut start. FA: Warwick Wright & Stuart Willis, 1991 | 35m | |||
Mt Fox Area Mt Fox | |||||
16 | ★ Fox Tail
Up the small corner through a bulge, step right and continue up the next line. Start: Start 5 metres right of a wide corner. FA: James & Melanie McIntosh, 1991 | 30m | |||
16 | Intoxication
Not positively located FA: Brian Fish, Craig Nottle & Mike Stone, 1983 | 45m | |||
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering 20th Century Blocks | |||||
V0 | Ita Buttrose
| 3m | |||
V0 | Ben Hur
| 3m | |||
V0 | Russian Arm Swings
| 3m | |||
V0 | 80s Fitness
| 3m | |||
V0 | Meteor Tracks
| 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Slabalicious
| 5m | |||
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders Grandpa Boulder | |||||
V0 | Movie Night
| ||||
V0 | Extra Large Popcorn
| ||||
V0 | Closing Credits
| ||||
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders The Mental Block | |||||
V0 | Divine Perspiration
| ||||
V0 | ★ Divine Observation
| ||||
Mt Fox Area The Far Pavilion | |||||
16 | Let the Fun Begin
Wall to L of 'Kava Boy' 1) (16) Climb chimney between slab and wall, past first thrutchy section, then step right onto wall. Up wall, with rock getting better as height is gained, tending right to belay below small corner on near arête. 2) (16) Up corner, step left, then straight up wall to final off width crack, which can be avoided on the right. Descent via main wall walk off via major gully. FA: Nic Kiraly & Steve Holloway (alt), 2005 | 55m | |||
Red Rock Area Band Of Gypsies | |||||
16 | Bohemian Ridge
Mixed climbing with a short crux. The gully L of "Nice Knobs" is blocked by a black slab. FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005 | 45m | |||
16 | Dead Horses
From chock-stone climb directly up to FH. Pull onto ramp and climb juggy orange headwall to top. FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005 | 27m, 1 | |||
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Pellant Pinnacle | |||||
16 | A Kilogram Of Pellant Please
Flake crack at left end of wall. FA: Rick Jeukin & Ross Meffin, 1991 | 12m | |||
16 | Bottom Juice
Not very appetising and hopelessly contrived. 'Flake' (2 FHs), at right end of west wall. FA: Rick Jeukin & Ross Meffin, 1991 | 7m | |||
16 | Kauk Is My Hero
Ron would be ashamed of this effort. left orange streak on wall right of 'Bottom Juice', then wall above to rap station. FA: Ross Meffin, 1991 | 25m | |||
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Espanol Pinnacle | |||||
16 | ★ No Habla Espanol
On the South East face of the pinnacle is a bottomless wide crack. Up crack (crux) on good gear then head left up rampy corner. Finish up vertical crack on jugs. Rap from bolt anchors above Je Ne Parle Pas Francais. FA: Marcel Geelen & Jac Cutter, 2002 | 14m | |||
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles North Pinnacle | |||||
16 | Better Up Than Down
4m Left of Grey Matter. Straight up to the top. First move is the crux. The rest of the climb is grade 12 up fragile featured wall. Pull over the right side of the red overhang. FA: Lewis Clarey & Abdul Rahman, 5 Dec 2014 | 30m | |||
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Back Wall | |||||
16 | Moria
Another worthless addition. Starts about 3m right of 'Wimbleton' at smooth part of grey wall. Up a few moves then right 2m. Follow easing seam, trending slightly left, to break overhang just right of the small red cave on 'Wimbleton'. FA: Keith, Tim Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 2003 | 40m | |||
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Marianas Trench | |||||
16 | ★ Aleutian Crack
The shrubbery isn't as bad as it looks! On the left side of the entrance to the Marianas Trench there is a wide crack. From the ground, scramble up on jumbled blocks for 5 meters to gain the base of the crack. A couple of layback moves take you to a grassy ledge. Climb the slab on the left of the crack to avoid some vegetation before stepping back into the line and on to the top. A big cam (4 Camalot or similar) is useful. FA: David Jupp & Tim Marsh, 2002 | 35m | |||
Red Rock Area Crag X | |||||
16 | Mase
| 20m | |||
V0 | Society Overload
| ||||
V0 | ★ Dryreach (s)
| ||||
V0 | ★ My Mumma says (s)
| ||||
Red Rock Area Picasso Block Dali Wall | |||||
16 | ★★ The Persistence of Memory
The cliff splitting crack provides great climbing and equally great gear. When it ends, continue straight up to a scenic belay. FA: Bill Begg & Alex Trnovsky, Nov 2015 | 40m | |||
Red Rock Area The Solarium Ballbag Amphitheatre | |||||
16 | ★ Window in the Sky
Start in the big cave below the window and climb the arete to the ledge. Step gently over the window then blast up the black groove to the anchors. Remarkably steep for the grade. FA: Bill Begg, Brett Dodemaide & Alex Trnovsky, Apr 2016 | 5 | |||
Red Rock Area Eagle Rock | |||||
16 | Daddy Cool
Start up a chimney-crack a few metres left of a large corner, passing on the outside of a big block. Exit right at the top of the chimney and veer up right on the surprising wall. FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1988 | 35m | |||
Red Rock Area Scoop Rocks | |||||
16 | Tree Hugger
Climb to second bolt of 'Angry Arborist'. Rather than dynoing upwards, traverse left delicately to exposed swing onto arete. Up jugs to top. FA: Neil Monteith & Rohan Archibald, 2003 | 20m | |||
Red Rock Area Valley Crag | |||||
16 | ★ Tapestry
Up right side of blunt arete (not using flake crack) to ledge then straight up. Start: Start 2 metres right of "Oxtail Soup" FA: James McIntosh & Tony Wilson, 1991 | 18m | |||
Red Rock Area Canyon Crag | |||||
16 | I'd Rather Be Skiiing
Only a few good moves, but these are very good. Start: Start about 30 metres left of "No Holds Barred" FA: James & Melanie McIntosh, 1997 | 30m | |||
Buandik Area Buandik Bouldering Made It Area | |||||
V0 | ★★ Lovely
Sit start, below the finish of 'Back, Sack & Crack' at a juggy horizontal rail. Up via the positive pockets. | ||||
V0 | ★ Half Baked
Stand start at the jug around 3m left of 'Cookie Monster'. Up and right on good holds. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Special Cookies
2m left of 'Half Baked'. Start at the flexing orange jug and head up. | 3m | |||
V0 | Ruckzuck
| ||||
V0 | Little Plant
| ||||
Buandik Area Buandik Bouldering Got Lost Valley | |||||
V0 | Recovery
| ||||
Buandik Area The Buandik Boulder | |||||
16 | Target Area
4 metres right of Arrow Head. FA: Geoff Butcher & Judy Grove, 1991 | 15m | |||
16 | Quilled End
3 metres right of Target Area. Finish up ramp. FA: Geoff Butcher & Judy Grove, 1991 | 17m | |||
Buandik Area The Studio | |||||
16 | The Sir Nicholas Hasluck Memorial Slab Climb
Start at a big gum growing from black slab on north toe of outcrop. Up to hollow flakes, then right until a balancy move gains a diagonal and good holds above. Finish straight up and just right of the black streak. FA: Michael Hampton & Peter Woodfield | 25m | |||
Buandik Area Closed The Gallery | |||||
16 | The Educator
Located on wall opposite the main Gallery cave. Climb obvious right facing wide corner or the face right of the corner passing one UB and two FH¹s. At the 2nd FH move right to doubly bolt lower off. FA: Ben Hawthorne & Doug Williams | 12m, 3 | |||
Buandik Area Quartz Block | |||||
16 | Uknown Easy Sport Route
| 14m | |||
Buandik Area Rain Wall | |||||
16 | Sally's Route
Unusual climbing up the centre of the wall left of "Blackberry Nip". FA: Greg & Sally Child, 1992 | 40m | |||
Buandik Area Goat Track Pygmy Terrace | |||||
16 | Stress Shared
Crack 1 metre right of 'The Jig Is Up' FA: Geoff Butcher & Chris Lawrence, 1991 | 12m | |||
16 | Triangle Fridge
Left under flake 4 metres right of 'Stress Shared' to juggy bulge. Left to finish. FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991 | 14m | |||
Buandik Area Closed Billywing Buttress | |||||
16 | Finger Buckets
Climb the centre of the wall. The fingery start eases to pleasant bucket hauling. Start: Just inside the wider, central chasm is a steep wall on the left. FA: Michael Hampton & Peter Campbell, 1993 | 18m | |||
Buandik Area Closed Billywing Buttress Green Gully Area | |||||
16 | Stick Lizard
Takes the centre of the face on block overlooking head of Green 'Gully'. FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993 | 12m | |||
Buandik Area The Tower Bouldering Tower Proper 9.1 Boulder | |||||
V0 | Fault Line
| 3m | |||
Buandik Area The Catacombs | |||||
16 | ★ Chair de Poule
Lean over to incuts/jugs and bomber #0.4 placement. Cut loose swing over and climb up the orange streak. Bail slightly to the right, once the handholds run-out. FFA: Andreas Aachen & Julie, 2018 | 20m | |||
16 | ★ Fly Grave
The giant flake on the wall between 'Slow Torture' and 'Skullcracker'. Gain the ledge below this flake by starting 8m right at weakness through rooflet (route was attempted direct but was abandoned when no pro and grade 23+ roof moves were encountered). Walk across sledge and then up nice orange wall until holds run out, look behind to see the big flake, stem onto it and jug easily on ledge. Up left to finish. FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert & Cath, 2007 | 25m | |||
Mt Thackeray The Magic Mountain | |||||
16 | Arrival
The left-facing prominent corner. FA: Louise Shepherd, Simon Mentz (alt) & Phil Wilkins, 1991 | 40m | |||
16 | In The Restaurant
Start: Start about 25-30 metres left of "He Reviewed..." at a good line with a bulging crack start.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood (alt), 1991 | 75m, 3 | |||
16 | Lothar
Wideish line marking left side of orange wall. FA: Erik Lock & Nick Neagle, 1992 | 35m | |||
Mt Thackeray Crystal Palace Crystal Cave | |||||
16 | ★ Chuun Chuun Buung Ak
| 45m | |||
Mt Thackeray Quartz Edge | |||||
16 | On The Amazon
Steep start and finish but not all that great. Start at undercut corner 20 metres right of Prague Spring. Up the corner until near the roof then traverse left to the arete. Overhanging groove above leads to steep, dinnerplating rock. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1988 | 40m | |||
The Fortress Area The Fortress Eastern End Camping Cave | |||||
16 | Vertical Reality
Start 10 metres right of cleft.
FA: Campbell Mercer & Mark Poustie, 1993 | 42m | |||
The Fortress Area The Fortress Eastern End Spanish Wall | |||||
16 | Cailaf
Start 35 metres right of wall of large knobs at right-leaning orange-edged flake-line. Up flake, or slab immediately right, to roof. Pull through roof immediately above flake and then on up past wedged block. FA: Campbell Mercer & Mark Poustie, 1993 | 37m | |||
16 | Spanish Bombs
Right-facing corner 10 metres right of 'Fragile Feelings'. Up to top of corner, step right and up. FA: Mark Poustie & Campbell Mercer, 1993 | 30m | |||
16 | Homage To Catalonia
Directly up wall 2 metres left of Igreiga to the scoop on the right of the large triangular roof. Pull through roof on good holds, move left and up. FA: Mark Poustie & Campbell Mercer, 1994 | 33m | |||
The Fortress Area The Fortress Eastern End Baby Bum Wall | |||||
16 | Midlife Crisis
Start 1 metre left of right arete. Straight up for 15 metres. Traverse right at break to arete. Up. FA: Mark Poustie & Campbell Mercer, 1994 | 27m | |||
The Fortress Area The Fortress Black Knight Buttress | |||||
16 | Reckless
Up flake 5 metres right of "Atom Ant" and then wall above. FA: Campbell Mercer & Matt Walsh, 1994 | 20m | |||
16 | Downhearted
Thin series of diagonal cracks about 5 metres to the left of the right-hand edge of wall. FA: Campbell Mercer & Matt Walsh, 1994 | 20m | |||
The Fortress Area Shadow Lands | |||||
16 | Beheaded
Up the face on the right of the corner to a roof, through this and left into the main corner. Follow the crack line diagonally up right to an abseil tree. Start: Start on the right side of the buttress, 10 metres right of If We Are Giants, at a corner with a triangular roof at half height. FA: Andrew Webb, Glenn Donohue & Wayne Maher, 1994 | 18m | |||
16 | Jumping At Shadows
Follow the cracks to the left end of the roof. Move up and right through the roof to finish up the line on the left side of the upper face. Start: Start on the left of the buttress and 4 metres left of the central overhangs. FA: Andrew Webb, Wayne Maher & Glen Donohue, 1993 | 22m | |||
16 | New Routeaholic
Up past solution pockets to small roof. Up the steepest section of roof to follow the vague arete above. Start: Start as for JATTUGC FA: Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue & Andrew Webb, 1994 | 20m | |||
The Fortress Area Shadow Lands Blue Cities Area | |||||
16 | Grey Gold
Up boulder on the right to traverse left across the face to bulge in the centre. Up the right side of bulge to thread runner and on to top. Start: Start on the right-hand side of the grey face. FA: Wayne Maher & Peter Cunningham, 1996 | 18m | |||
16 | Grey Matter
Up the right-hand groove then straight up. Start: Start at the centre of the grey slab behind 'Grey Gold', 20 metres left of 'Scope Route'. FA: James McIntosh, Melissa Hobson & Roger ?, 1996 | 20m | |||
The Fortress Area Craigend | |||||
16 | Broken Glass
Start as for Diamonds in the Forest. The arete, straight up. FA: Glenn Donohue & Andrew Webb, 2000 | 28m | |||
16 | Fly Blown
Start 1 metres right of the left end of the wall which is inside the chasm on the Diamond Block. Staright up. FA: Graham Gittens & Wayne Maher, 1995 | 20m | |||
Harrop Track Graham's Creek Good Friday Gully | |||||
16 | Kazual
An atmospheric adventure up the left side of the main wall with a fair bit of loose rock in the upper half. Start behind the conifer 5m R of 'Napalm Sunday'. Up the grey slab then follow easy ramp L to steep orange cracks and through small roof. 'Excellent' view. FA: Steve Chapman & Kaz Anwin, 2005 | 40m |