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Western Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 10
19

Seasonality

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Summary

Cliff faces N. Walking time 20 minutes. GR 304839

Description

The extensive escarpment north of Bundaleer is mostly juggy and of no interest. The exceptions are a pair of attractive buttresses near tghe east end, near the junction of Stony Creek Road and the Mount Rosea Track and another wall 200 metres right of these..

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Approach

From the road junction walk south-west on flat at foot of rising ground for about ten minutes. Now up a little to the left (east) to west-facing pair of buttresses.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Excellent short climb. Looks harder than it is. Thin seam at left end of left buttress is entered from left, then fol-lowed. Step right at its top and finish up V-line above.

FA: Chris Baxter & Tim Burke, 1991

Steep and a little pumpy. Climb attractive undercut seam 4m right of Dogs Outside The Eternal City, finishing up that climb.

FA: Chris Baxter & Tim Burke, 1991

Middle line on left buttress; 2m right of The Kingdom Of Nothingness. Scar at half-height indicates where a large flake pulled off as leader was laybacking off it. Steep pocket pulling up line.Left below final overhangs to Dogs Outside the Eternal City.

FA: Chris Baxter & David Shirra, 1991

Exposed. Also a direct finish for The Kingdom Of Nothingness. Straight up to final overhangs. Step left past fixed piton runner, then back right on to hanging arête above it.

FA: Chris Baxter, Stephen Hamilton, Lisa Imer & Stuart Imer, 1992

Up diagonal crack on right side of left buttress to ledge. Up weakness in wall above, easing.

FA: Chris Baxter & Tim Burke, 1991

Unbalanced; bouldery start, then easy. Undercut blunt arête 5m right of Publish Or Perish. Cairned 1m left of start

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter, Lisa Imer & Stuart Imer, 1992

Flake-roof between Misery and Distant Relation.

FA: Jeremy Boreham & Mike Wust, 1998

Looks unprotected and desperate but is neither. Recommended. Roof and bulging wall just right of Samakand.

FA: Jeremy Boreham & Mike Wust, 1998

Distinct crack near left side of right buttress.

FA: David Shirra & Chris Baxter, 1991

Good, varied climbing. Climb pockets1m right of A Distant Relation, then short slab and short left-facing corner.Up and left to finish up A Distant Relation.

FA: David Shirra & Chris Baxter, 1991

From final overhang, hand-traverse right. Pull through bulge, then short wall above.

FA: Kieran Koughran, Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter & Meg Sleeman, 1994

Classic climb with a dramatic finish.Recommended. Up pocketed weakness 4m right of Days Of Wine And Roses. Up right in shallow corner, then over hangs.

FA: Chris Baxter & David Shirra, 1991

About 200m right of The Illusion Of Power is a wall with a huge fallen blocking front of it. Cairned. Left In The Lurch is subtle weakness in middle of this wall.

FA: Chris Baxter, Stephen Hamilton & Stuart Imer, 1992

Brilliant. Up wall 2m right of Left In The Lurch to right-curving flake. Exit left from top of this. Step right and climb wall direct.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter, Lisa Imer & Stuart Imer, 1992

Good. Crack starting in right-facing corner 2m right of Black Hunter.

FA: Chris Baxter, Stephen Hamilton & Stuart Imer, 1992

El steepo. Up left arête of flake-crack2m right of Cruise Control. Step right at overhang and pull onto wall above. Straight up to finish direct over next overhang.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter, Lisa Imer & Stuart Imer

About 200m right of Little Wing is a series of enormous blocks below the cliff and just left of red roofs. Above the blocks and left of the buttress with the red roofs is a wall with a thin crack up its left side. Crack. Finish on ledge below easy ground. To get off, traverse left (belayed), then descend easily.

FA: Geoff Little, Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter & Maureen Gallagher, 1992

Good climbing. Climb wall 5m right of Show And Tell to blocks under over-hang. Up and left over overhang to ledge.

FA: Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter, Maureen Gallagher & Geoff Little, 1992

  1. 20m Thin wall 2m right of Swamp Harrier. Traverse 4m left at sloping ledge.

  2. 15m Knobbly crack (poor pro).

FA: Greg Aimer & Chrissy Freestone, 1994

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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Sun 23 Apr
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