Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay Mostly Trad climbing31 routes in crag
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Short, convenient, and mostly easy trad climbing in an amazing location. Spectacular campround, beaches, and forest, with a bit of climbing thrown in. A good spot to set up topropes for beginners.©
Bittangabee Sea Cliffs North is a compact climbing area located within the Ben Boyd National Park, 300k south-east from Canberra near the NSW and Victorian state border.
The rock is sandstone with fantastic frictional properties. Some friable bits, but most of the rock is surprisingly strong. Considerable jointing and interesting quartz intrusions provide lots of holds.
The cliff is approximately 250 metres in length and 12-15 metres high.
The rock is heavily featured, quite steep with some small roofs and overhanging faces. The cliff is pretty much saturated with climbs, as any new routes would simply be contrived variants on the existing ones. Bolts are not considered appropriate in this area, as the cliff is located within the Ben Boyd National Park. All routes can be protected on abseil or top roped. This is an ideal area for beginners with a multitude of easier climbs. The area is a beautiful spot and should be preserved as such.
Climbs are described south to north (left to right while looking at the cliff with your back to the ocean). Descend at either end of the cliff.
Take a standard rack, with extra small and medium cams (if you have them). The cracks to rig top belays tend to be about 5m back from the edge. For toproping, take 25m climbing ropes and 10m rigging ropes. Don't forget carpet/towels for edge protection.©
Get yourself to Eden, then head South towards Orbost. Travel about 17kms and turn left onto Edrom Road (tar), following signs to Bittangabee Bay. Turn right onto Green Cape Road after 6km (dirt). Turn Right at the T Intersection (8 km). Turn left at 6km on to the Bittangabee Bay road. Total trip time is around 4½ hours from Canberra.
The cliff is on the North head of Bittangabee Bay. The top of the cliff is the bare rock platform which is easily seen across the bay from the campground. Access the climbing area by walking about 1.5km north from the campsite on the well maintained Bittangabee – Saltwater creek walking trail. The track crosses a bare rock platform which is the top of the cliff. Walking time 20 to 30 minutes.
Access can be gained at either end of the cliff by an easy scramble down onto the rock ledge immediately above the ocean. During heavy seas or king tides access to the climbs may well be impossible.©
Where to stay
The Bittangabee Bay campground (which has pit toilets, gas barbeques and a freshwater creek) is beautiful. BYO water! Park entry fees of $7.00 a day per vehicle and camping fees of $5.00 per adult apply. You will need to book ahead by ringing the Merimbula rangers on Ph. 02 6495 5001 or Fax: 02 6495 5055. Expect the campground to be booked out during summer holidays. Eden is 45 minutes away, and has pubs for that quenching ale if you forgot to take water to the crag.©
It is important to remember this is a National Park and sensitive to human activities. Whilst little vegetation grows on the cliff itself, be sensitive to the local flora and fauna. Bolts are unnecessary and chalk should be used sparingly as the rock has exceptional frictional properties and barely needs any. Do not camp at the crag and take out all you waste, do not dispose of it in the ocean or surrounds.©
Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)
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