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Summary

Bouldering area in Berowra Heights, mostly easy problems on good rock with a quick approach.

Description

This small cliffline runs along the west side of the Turner Rd fire trail, only 5 minutes walk from the end of Turner Rd. There are some good quality easy problems and plenty of development potential including a few harder routes. As this is a relatively newly developed area, there is still a bit of dirty and suspect rock - take care.

Access issues

Located on Crown Land outside of Berowra Valley NP.

Approach

Park at the end of Turner Road. Follow the fire trail, staying left at the first fork. Walk along the fire trail for another 50m or so, passing a walking track on the right, until you see some boulders on the right side of the fire trail. Another 10m on from where these boulders start, turn left into the bush and descend via a break in the cliff line (possibly marked by a cairn). Climbs start right of here and are described right to left.

History

View historical timeline

Unknown history. There are a few chipped holds towards the end of the crag alongside a bunch of machine head glue-ins which were installed prior to 2010 (Emergency services used to do training here however would not be using carrots).

Routes

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Grade Route

First boulder you come to as you walk down

Sit start with both hands at the crimps just above the white lichen, balance your way up to slopey mantle

FA: Charles B, 18 Jul

Start with feet down in the hole, leaning on the rock with hands matched on the lip. Powerful moves with the added difficulty of avoiding dabbing the rock behind.

FA: Charles B, 3 Jul

Blunt arete just left of "Floor is Lava"

Flared crack past floor is lava

The next few routes start in the big cave. WARNING: the topouts in this section are a bit sketchy with insecure holds high off the deck. Take care.

Overhanging hand crack to the right of "Divine Beast". Faceholds are in. Top out is a little bit dodgy.

FA: Rick W, Jul 2020

Starts just right of the crack between "Covfefe" and "Lechon Kawali". From the undercut start pull onto the vertical wall above. Take care with the topout.

FA: Charles B, 17 Jul

Wall left of the cave. Easiest descent is to downclimb or the long way via the walk-in track.

Start on jugs above the lip

FA: Charles B, 19 Jun

Stemming fun up the corner. Be careful if topping out.

FA: Rick W, Jul 2020

Sit start at the obvious pocket

FA: Charles B, 5 Jul

Straight up the arête.

FA: Rick W, Apr 2020

Starts left of the Arete.

FA: Rick W, Apr 2020

1m right of LI

FA: Rick W, Apr 2020

Right of the double grass tree, following the lichen.

FA: Rick W, Apr 2020

Start to the left of the double grass tree up the orange streak.

FA: Rick W, Apr 2020

1m right of II.

FA: Rick W

Start with both hands in the obvious pocket. Follows a crimpy sequence.

FA: Rick W, Apr 2020

Sustained traverse on crimps and thin feet. Start matched in the pocket as for Insidious Infection, move to the first crimp and head right. Finish on Arete. Avoid jugs at the very top of the wall.

FA: Rick W, Jul 2020

Up the corner left of "Insidious Infection"

FA: Charles B, 13 Jun

The next four routes top out through the hole at the right end of the orange "wave" wall.

Start at pocket right of twin grass trees.

FA: Charles B, 13 Jun

Starts just left of twin grass trees

FA: Charles B, 13 Jun

1m left of The Orange Room, just right of the grass tree. Sit start at undercling then up orange streak.

FA: Charles B, 13 Jun

Start left of the grass tree. Traverse along the rail to top out at "Kookin' in the Foamies".

FA: Charles B, 13 Jun

The next three routes are at the left end of the orange "wave". Descend by downclimbing "Dumpers", or the long way via the walk-in track.

Start low and follow the juggy rail to top out at "The Search"

FA: Charles B, 19 Jun

Sit start at low sidepull and up using holds on the face only

FA: Charles B, 19 Jun

Corner

FA: Charles B, 19 Jun

8m left of "Closeout Corner" where the wall starts to steepen

Start matched in horizontal gash.

FA: Charles B, 3 Jul

About 10m left of "Four Simple Steps to Total Life Satisfaction" at the compact, orange wall.

A bit of a one-move wonder. Sit start at the crimp and sidepull/gaston on the left side of the orange wall, make a difficult move left to the sidepull in the scoop then up to topout at the ledge.

FA: Charles B, 24 Jul

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Activity

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