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Ladder of Gloom Area

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Description

Next main area as you walk in

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

30M R of Pimple buttress

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Good crack climb, lots of nuts for reassurance.

FA: Scott Butler & James Holbrook, 1980

Starts at the bottom of 'Cenotaph Corner'. Often top roped. Move left at top to lower off

Climb the obvious corner. Beware of the brown snake that likes the top out jug on the left hand side.

Seriously, beware in summer

Start: often used as the descent route.

Hard, worthless. Just right of 'Cenotaph Corner' is a slab wall with 2 shiny new ring bolts next to 2 decrepit old carrots.

Climb up slab with difficulty.

FA: M. Law, 1980

Traverse rightwards into the base of the obvious rock ladder. A bit of trickery makes it easier. Stick clip first ring makes it better on the nerves. Start: 4m right of Cenotaph Corner.

FA: Mike Law & James Holbrook, 1980

Stick clip ring bolt, committing dyno to jug, save a little for move into the ladder.

Start: direct start to 'Ladder of Gloom'

FA: Barry Jones, Steve Jones, Dave James & Julian Childs, 1994

Start just right of the 'Barrelling section' of rock. Move up leftwards mantling the overhangs to finish just right of the Ladder.

Start: 4m right of 'Ladder of Death'

FA: Hayden Brotchie, 1996

It was always graded 19, not 20

FA: julian andersen

Up easy slab to enter the grooved ramp top out to finish. 1 carrot bolt where needed.

Easy to first bolt. Desperate to clip second bolt then even harder to get past it.

Start: 3m right of 'The Mantle Machine'.

Up short steep black wall. First bolt was pulled when a climber rested on it and fell to the floor!!

The 2nd bolt is probably the same. Should be rebolted or soloed with the bolt removed.

Start: where there bolt hole can be easily seen.

2 carrots on a totally blank section of beautiful rock.

Start: 2m left of ringed project.

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