Glamorpus Area




Far western side of Blackboard, 30m right

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

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Start in the middle of the pocketed wall 12 m L of GOM. Swing around and on pockets to easy mantle finish.

Set by Tim Mayer, 27 Mar 2016

FA: Tim Mayer, 1 Apr 2016

Up the small steep wall following line of U's. Nice toy climb.

Set by Child & Jones

FA: Child, 30 Jul 2016

Juggy line on hangers up small overhang.

FA: Child & Jones, 30 Jul 2016

Up the black wall using very marginal gear placements.

Start: 8m left of 'Grumpy Old Men'

FA: Julian Anderson, 1990

Climb blocky arete to top of purple wall, traverse right with rising traverse to finish at far right anchors of "Up the Duff". Best to clean from 1st anchors, or bring up 2nd to ledge and walk off or rap.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

FA: Child & Jones, 2016

Climb the obvious golden flake moving up to easy ground. two bolts to lower off. bouldery.

Start: 4m left of 'Scones of Doom'

FA: Gavin Portier, 2009

Up line of rings on short wall

Start: 2m left of cave

FA: Paul Duff, 1997

Up steep hand crack right of UtD to finish on those anchors.

Up corner by Scones of Doom, onto Bronco and up.

FA: Michael Law, 2020

Up through the scoopy slopers to ledge (avoiding spinning RB). Back out and onto head wall (RB) and up to DRB lower-offs.

FA: Mikl Law

Scones too soft? Add a pumpy traverse and cruxy mantle into the fray with the linkup into Omnipox. Notoriously difficult to find, apparently it is near "Are you my pussy".

FA: Adrian, 11 Jul 2017

Through bulges to finish slightly left.

Reputedly tough for the grade, you decide.

Start: 2m left of 'Glamorpus'

Awesome overhanging route

Start: nice little mantle then awesome climbing

Picking the absolute worst of Glamopus and 'Are You My Mother?'. More Mantles thana display home estate. Do the mantle on 'Glamorpus' then traverse right along the ledge to do the mantle on 'Are You My Mother?'.

FA: Anthony Lin, 2000

FA: Anthony Lind, 2009

A fantastic pumpy route. Picks the best bits of each route. Climb 'Are You My Mother?' to 2nd bolt, do the dyno then traverse left and clip the new U bolt then finish up 'Glamorpus'.

FA: Barry Jones, 2009

One for the tall people. Boulder up to bulge, commit for the throw then commit a bit more for the mantle. clip safety bolt and rest forever. tall people grab chipped finish hold, shorties - feet up with a little dead point for finishing hold.

Start: 3m right of 'Glamorpus'

Rightwards on slopiness then up nose, all the holds are in the wrong place, it traverse right around arete up high. Desperate but fun climbing

FA: Mike Law, 31 Jul 2011

Marked LL. A slightly steep start followed by a thin chimney to a solid corner. Take care with pro. Tree belay at top.

FA: Geoffry Heath & James Holbrook, 1980

As for NIBS but head straight up arete at 3rd RB. The old bolt to the left remains unclimbed

FA: Tim Mayer, 5 Aug 2014

Start as for LL and head right to big big jug on prow. Up to 3rd bolt on overhanging then head around arete to join the end of Scott's Edge.

FA: Tim Mayer, 2007


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