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Summary

Fun slab climbing right next to your car!

Description

Previously known as "Suicide Slabs", but renamed due to the stench that wafts up from the toilet block whenever the wind blows the wrong way! This is a great little north facing crag, offering probably the best friction climbing in the Sydney region, on generally good rock and with zero access. The crag is superb in winter, but is a bit of an oven in summer. The crag was originally developed (sans bolts) by the incredibly prolific Wondabyne Climbing Club, but was rediscovered and the bolts put in sometime during the 1980. The main attraction is the huge slab of rock leaning up against the hillside. This offers five superb bolted slab routes (with grades between about 14 and 18) and a stack of top rope variants as well. The routes in the centre are generally easier, with harder routes to the left. There are also two routes on the right hand side of the block, one on the left, five routes on the smaller block behind the main block and a project (by Julian Anderson) on the wall behind the blocks. Unfortunately none of these routes compare in quality to the routes on the main slab. There is also some bouldering on the wall to the right of the main block. To get there, drive north along the old Pacific Highway (NOT the F1) to the Brooklyn exit. Take this and follow the signs to Brooklyn (about 10km). Once in Brooklyn, turn right onto Bridge St, left onto George St and follow it to the end (to the Parsley Bay boat ramp). The slab is obvious up and to the right. The crag is also easily accessible by public transport - the Hawkesbury River railway station (on the Newcastle line) is only about 300m from the crag.

Approach

Pacific Highway (NOT the F1) to the Brooklyn exit. Take this and follow the signs to Brooklyn (about 10km). Once in Brooklyn, turn right onto Bridge St, left onto George St and follow it to the end (to the Parsley Bay boat ramp). The slab is obvious up and to the right. The crag is also easily accessible by public transport - the Hawkesbury River railway station (on the Newcastle line) is only about 300m from the crag.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The first route that moves around the cave on the left hand side (facing the slab) past four carrot bolts

FA: Unknown

The next route right of B via three carrots, the middle one sticks out way too much.

FA: Unknown

the route right of C, which goes straight up the centre of the slab past three newer looking carrots. last carrot is missing.

FA: Phil Stallard WCC, 1980

The route right of HSBA via three rusty carrots navigating your way through the branches of the fig tree growing over the rock.

FA: Unknown

The right most route on the slab, before the cave on the right hand side facing the toilet block. Three rusty carrot bolts then up the arete and over the figtree.

FA: Unknown

Start on right side of slab, right of E, and traverse along the whole lower slab. little cave on left hand side is a bit thin and chossy, watch holds carefully.

Set by Michael Sramek, 25 Nov

FFA: Michael Sramek, 25 Nov

FA: 25 Nov

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