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Description

The Lily Street boulders comprises of two squat Basalt blocks sitting above the Maribyrnong river.

The location consists of one short overhanging face with arete on its left side and one long overhanging nose.

Every possible combination / elimination was done back in the 90's - I recall mentioned eliminations up to V8-10 were climbed.

The blocks have been improved in November 2016 by removing a layer of soil below the boulders, mostly from underneath the nose.

Take grades listed as very loose estimates.

Approach

Park at the end of Lily street, Essendon West. Walk 110 metres west along the Maribyrnong river trail to a viewing area fenced by bluestone blocks. The boulders are easily visible when looking South West from this viewing area.

Step over the bluestone wall at its Western end and follow a rough path another 50 metres or so till above the blocks. Now head carefully down through the long grass to the blocks below.

Watch out for snakes!

History

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Discovered and made public with much fanfare at the Mill climbing gym back in the 90's including photos and topo guide posted on the notice board.

Looking through my notes, possible developer was Darren who worked at Bogong Equipment at the time.

*Hopefully someone from back then might know Darren or have made a copy and would know the name given to these blocks?

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start. Very short overhanging arete facing west. Interesting mantle taken direct.

Sit start. Awkward pull off the ground from the arete to the good holds on the left face.

Excellent! Sit start hands in low break. Move to rubbish lip and Direct to mantle over arete (don’t move right along lip above LB4). Much easier if long armed or if start on lip.

Several variants available. Goes Direct without pocket (which may be easiest option for the tall). Sit start on good holds under lip of arete. Pocket on the right face in only after pulling on! Significantly easier starting RH in pocket (see below). Make sure to make the tricky mantle Direct (ideally channeling your 80s break dolphin!)

Sit start with RH in pocket. Crux is mantle. V3/4.

Unashamed eliminate and a good work up to the right face problem. Powerful sit start with RH undercling and LH on fat pinch on undercut section of arete. Nil further use of arete or of any of the sideways slopers/edges or the good holds over back. Technical to gain line of micro crimps which are all you can use to squeeze out a difficult mantle (Left foot use on arete allowed in this one).

Sit start. Overhanging face right of the arete including Arete for left hand only once pulled on. Watch your head!

Sit start with pocket for LH, RH on slimps or undercling. Arete is out. Powerful pull on then drive to lip.

Intense eliminate. Direct up right face without left arete, the start holds of LB3 or the obvious pocket. Difficulties to lip made harder as obvious good section of lip on right also out. Use the micro crimps of mantlism to top out but this time no use of left arete for feet. Sketchy technical and hard.

Sit start. Left face of the nose direct

Sit start as for LB5, and then lip traverse to the tip of the nose before mantling.

Sit start. Up right to positive holds on the nose then straight up.

Sit start. Same start as LB6, but move to the good pocket right side of the positive rail on the nose then up

Sit start. Continue right below the lip including a great pinch to top out on the nose. Cool.

Sit start back of the roof. Out to the tip of the nose without using the positive holds on the left face of the nose used by LB9 or the right side lip. Powerful and technical but surprisingly not too hard.

About as hard an eliminate as I could conceive/contrive for the roof. Could just tickle over V8 but may be easier. No use of heel or toe hooks, no use of the big foot ledge near ground on right, the good foot edge 20cm up middle of face or the big ledges for your feet. Start on jugs, match undercling in roof to gain lip then difficult to avoid dab getting around lip. Oh... and if it’s not obvious enough... no use of either arete!

Sit start. Instead of climbing back through underclings in roof palm off them to gain buggy right lip then continue as per LB11. Pretty ordinary.

Sit start. Lip traverse the right side of the nose topping out at the tip

Sit start. Short very easy arete. Gold... waist high!

Activity

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