Site navigation

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Description

A 3-5m high old quarry or cutting under a curtain of overgrown figs beneath the backs of houses. Climbs are listed left to right facing in.

Approach

Minogue Reserve between Minogue Crescent and the Glebe PCYC

Descent notes

Beware the wall of overgrown figs, cactus and streams of domestic and vegetated rubbish on the right of the cliff. Rap off the railing on the left, or jump, downclimb or abseil off a tree.

History

View historical timeline

Judging by the numerous chipped jugs (the sport-climbing of the 60s?), and mostly poxy bolts, it was clearly climbed in the past by Scouts, PCYC boys and local post-punk hard men in the 60s, 70s and 80s. Now mostly gone to ruin, and with good reason.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Easy warm up

Set by Chris Wallace

FA: Chris Wallace

Easy but gritty highball. Traverse and downclimb.

Set by Chris Wallace

FA: Chris Wallace

Start: below big bolts. High, but easy gradient. Down climb "Climb 3" or rap off.

Set by Chris Wallace

FFA: Chris Wallace

FA: Chris Wallace

How to get down "Through the Roof"

Set by Chris Wallace

Start: Sharp yellow corner with pile of cement at base.

Old school beefy layaway up to ledge with two old rusty carrots.

Starts: Right next to "MMMT"

Pinch arete while climbing chipped slab past two rusty old carrots, if you must.

Set by Chris Wallace

FA: Chris Wallace

Hard start with a committing reach. Once you're past there it's easy.

FA: Chris Wallace

Set by Chris Wallace

Climb up the two ledges next to "Maxi Taxi" while using the edge of "Maxi Taxi" for holds. Extra points if you don't get too mad at the tree branch sticking into your back on the first ledge. Use the Maxi Taxi crack for protection.

Set by Chris Wallace

FA: Chris Wallace

A really nice easy crack climb to the left of "Stick It".

Set by Chris Wallace

FA: Chris Wallace

First move brings you to two great solid crimps but from here it's all slopers, so stick it.

Set by Chris Wallace

FA: Chris Wallace

Work your way up the face on the side of You Have No Idea. Work through two reachy and committing moves before joining You Have No Idea and finishing the last 1.5m.

Set by Chris Wallace

FA: Chris Wallace

Start in the corner and traverse over to You Have No Idea. From here complete the problem.

Set by Chris Wallace, 28 Apr 2013

FA: Chris Wallace, 28 Apr 2013

Start: Left of broken slab. Slab and arete with giant chipped jugs - good news for the top-out into compost! Probably a teen top-rope test-piece in its time.

FA: 1968

Not hard just very very commiting. Another highball arete which is possible to do on trad, but the dodgy sandstone ins't worth the risk.

Set by Chris Wallace, 28 Apr 2013

FA: Chris Wallace, 28 Apr 2013

Start at the base of the fallen slab and climb up it.

Set by Chris Wallace

FA: Chris Wallace

Start at the base of the fallen slab. Climb up and keep going to the top.

Set by Chris Wallace

FA: Chris Wallace

Start with one hand on the right side and the other on the left, move your right hand up right to the top sloper, stick it and top out.

FA: Chris Wallace

Start with one hand on the right side and the other on the left, move your right hand up to the edge that sticks out of the top out.

FA: Chris Wallace, 28 Apr 2013

This starts further away from all the other climbs halfway toward the main wall. Begin on the platform and work up the two crimps.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Minogue Crescent.