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Mourilyan Harbour

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 10-40
  • Ascents: 13
13

Seasonality

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Summary

Seaside spot with a trad climb and bouldering.

Description

A long stretch of rocky coastline that offers plenty of bouldering potential, as well as one established trad crack climb, with potential for more for the bold.

Access issues

Be careful coming through the harbour/port area and be polite to all staff and security as this could easily cause difficulty with access.

Approach

Drive to end of Mourilyan Harbour road through the industrial area until reaching what looks like an old cattle yard (-17.599029, 146.125101). Walk around this to the left and down to the shoreline. There is a faint walking track just within the treeline but it's fairly overgrown now, so easier to just walk along the rocks to the headland and North about 50m to a two ledged cliff. This has 'Gjibo's Crack'. There is more problems as you walk north along the coast.

Where to stay

Accommodation is nearby in Etty Bay, or within Innisfail itself. There's no camping facilities near this area.

Ethic

No chipping holds, no marking the start of problems, clean up your rubbish which includes finger tape and orange peels and take out whatever else you find even if it's not yours.

History

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'Gjibo's Crack' was first established by craig gilbert in 1997.

Nick Murphy explored the area in May 2020, establishing a few of the easier problems.

Routes

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Grade Route

A few small cliffs and boulders around the original route here done by craig gilbert back in 1997.

Semi offwidth starting on the lower ground following the easy line below the obvious crack, up to the ledge and then through the crack to the top. Tree rap from on top.

Could be done as a boulder problem if spotters were tied in on the mid-height ledge.

FFA: Craig Gilbert, 1997

Sit start underclinging the lip of the small cave (check for spiders), use feet inside the cave, pull up and use whatever holds around to pull onto face, then slightly technical face climbing till you top out. Descend off to the left being careful of slippery leaf litter, and the army of green ants everywhere on this cliff.

FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May

This could just be one of the many ways to start 'Gjibo's Crack', though there's several along this wall.

Sit start near the tricky undercling, and right hand side pull, using these pounce up to the good sidepull above and follow thin seam and sidepulls to the top. Careful on the top out. Descend off to the left being careful of slippery leaf litter, and the army of green ants everywhere on this cliff.

FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May

Stand start in the small trench below the wall of pockets and huecos. Follow up past the huecos trending slightly right until the very top. Great fun problem for those new to bouldering.

FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May

Closed Project

Set by Nick Murphy, 7 May

Closed Project

Set by Nick Murphy, 7 May

Closed Project

Set by Nick Murphy, 7 May

Closed Project

Set by Nick Murphy, 7 May

Closed Project

Set by Nick Murphy, 7 May

Enjoyable juggy problem following straight up the white quartzite streak.

Sit start on chockstone and pull the jugs up the streak till at the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May

Closed Project

Set by Nick Murphy, 7 May

Closed Project

Set by Nick Murphy, 7 May

Closed Project

Set by Nick Murphy, 7 May

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