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Etty Bay North

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 15mins
  • Photos: 16
  • Ascents: 50

Seasonality

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Summary

Great seaside spot with plenty of easy through to moderate problems, and the best selection of highballs around

Description

East facing beach crag with great climbing and nice easterly breezes making for perfect afternoon sessions once it's in the shade. Plenty of tall problems for those who want to try out highball problems, and a few harder ones still in development.

Also plenty of more potential for anyone willing to walk further north past the current established area, very craggy looking coastline so the potential is there.

Access can be difficult at high tide, and also limits what problems don't have their starts underwater, suggest timing with low tides.

Access issues

Keep it clean, take your rubbish and any you find out with you, plenty of tourists and locals around who could make access difficult if we don't keep it clean.

Brush off big chalk marks, don't use huge tick marks. Don't harass the big birds either.

Approach

Navigate to Etty Bay then drive to the very end of the street but park outside the campground. Walk north on the beach around the headland until you reach a 2nd sandy cove. Keep walking around the next headland and you will reach the crag. Climbs are listed as you walk from South to North

Where to stay

Camping is easy at the Etty Bay camp sites.

Ethic inherited from Etty Bay

Keep it clean, take your rubbish and any you find out with you, plenty of tourists and locals around who could make access difficult if we don't keep it clean.

Brush off big chalk marks, don't use huge tick marks. Don't harass the big birds either.

Routes

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Grade Route

The first main wall you come to, facing North-East and distinct due to it's tall problems and pocketed as hell

Sit start at the base of the right facing arete, head straight up and trend left up the bulge to the top. Great easy highball to get accustomed to the height.

FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr

Sit start at base of right facing flake. Pull on and trend right up the tallest part of the wall hugging the bulge above the huecos/large pockets.

FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr

Sit start at the base of the deep right facing flake, follow up through to the jugs and pockets up top and your topping out on the rounded horn.

FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr

The obviously easy ultra-juggy staircase face to the left. Of the corner with plenty of pockets and edges. Great for the kids. Often used as a descent route for the other problems on this face.

FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr

Sit start on the small left facing crimps and jug up to the two slopey huecos, then up left to the big hueco, and straight up through the jug pockets to top out.

FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr

Sit start at the base of the flake crack beside the big huecos. Follow up this trending left to join into the top of 'Geckos Huecos'. Don't damage any of the vegetation at the top, and obviously the tree is out for use as a hold.

FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr

Sit start on the big huecos to the right of the crack, trend up and right to join into 'Answer Sea Etty McGuire' to top out.

FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr

The face between the slab and the pocketed walls. Layback and face climb to top out.

Set by Damien Bell, 2 Nov 2018

FA: Nick Murphy, 26 Dec

Start on large pockets L of slab, traverse low around arete and move to Slab face. finish on diagonal seam up slab

Set by Damien Bell, 2 Nov 2018

Sit start at base of thin flake, head up until it dissapears then bridge right to the bottom of the next flake, push up through one hard move in this then top out and finally take a breath again. Pad well cause it's a long way down from the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr

Sit start at bottom of thin seam, pull on using either the undercling to the right of the seam, or those with thin fingers use the seam. Slap up to big sloper rail, then follow seam to top out.

FA: Jack Muller, 3 May 2015

Set by craig gilbert, 3 May 2015

Standing start with a left side pull and highish left foot. Theres a great left under cling to work for your next move followed by a right side pull. The feet aren't great so its mostly smearing until you reach a great right side pull. Top out into the bush.

FA: Cullen, 9 Feb 2019

Sit start extension into 'Corn Flakes', done barefoot originally

FA: Nick Murphy, 26 Dec

The small overhung roof boulder facing towards 'Grater Wall'

Sit start under the low right hand side of the overhang. Pull up from flat jug and move to lip and mantle.

FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr

Sit start at base of left trending crack and follow this to top out to the left.

FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr

Match start on the slopey jug, plenty of feet around, pull up and go to a variety of intermediate holds then bust to the top, or do one massive move straight to the lip and mantle out. Watch your back on the boulder behind you, best protected with a pad.

FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr

Super easy juggy ramp, great for kids or helping people get used to heights over pads before trying other problems nearby.

Sit start on the ledge, grab jugs and pull up and follow up the sharp arete to the right of the descent gully.

FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May

Stand start on slopey holds, make one sizeable blind dynamic move to giant bucket above then top out via the jugs.

FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr

Sit start at the base of the flake, head straight up via several huge jugs to top out.

FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr

The hardest part about this thrutchy problem is getting off the ground.

Sit start at the base of the white line streak up the south face of the boulder. Struggle onto the boulder itself and then pretty much stand up and pull over the top.

FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr

Closed Project

Closed Project

Closed Project

Set by Nick Murphy, 4 May

Closed Project

Set by Nick Murphy, 4 May

Closed Project

Set by Nick Murphy, 4 May

Closed Project

Set by Nick Murphy, 4 May

Closed Project

Set by Nick Murphy, 4 May

Closed Project

Set by Nick Murphy, 4 May

Much further north beyond the boulder problems

Long coastal walk north from Etty Bay. Tide is important for not just access to the climb but also the start of the route once there. Low tide is preferable at less than .5m

FA: Craig Gilbert

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