Etty Bay South

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 8




Southern side of Etty Bay. Much harder access compared to the north side, and so far for what's been explored doesn't really offer the same quality problems as the north side. Currently blocked by a large overhanging roof about 500m along to explore any further.


As you descend towards the carpark at Etty Bay take the very first right and double back on yourself following this road to the very end. Head onto the beach and walk to your right as you face the water. Scramble along the rocks for around 200m before reaching the first problem.

Ethic inherited from Etty Bay

Keep it clean, take your rubbish and any you find out with you, plenty of tourists and locals around who could make access difficult if we don't keep it clean.

Brush off big chalk marks, don't use huge tick marks. Don't harass the big birds either.


View historical timeline

Scouted and 4 problems established by Nick Murphy in May 2020, though given the activity at the northern end of the beach it's likely that others had explored this before.


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Grade Route

Sit start with left hand in the pocket and right hand on something else. Follow the crack up to the right, topping out does meet you with a lot of green ants, your call.

FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May

Sit start below the vertical crack, hands on the jugs, head up the flake and face holds until over the top then traverse right to descend.

FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May

Slide in underneath into the little cave. Sit start as low as possible with jugs, pull through on pockets until about to hit the boulder behind then go right to mantle over the lip. Rock can be a bit soft, but with more ascents it'll clean up.

FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May

Sit start with hands in the horizontal break and poxy feet. Pop left following the break then pull up once at the arete and follow to the top and top out.

FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May

Or not maybe. Can either climb through the V-Hard roof and access further beyond but this is as far as has been explored for now. Could also try to push your way through the scrub on the hill to get around. May also be able to be walked around at very low tide.


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