★★ Moonlight Fantasia 19

Start 1m R of 'BARFJ'. Marked "MF".

One of the few good natural lines at 'KP'. It is a shame that the upper layback crack was halved when the council decided to renovate in the mid 1990s by dynamiting it off! Neil Monteith added the new bolted finish when the dust settled.

Up pockets to small roof, then up layback crack on L to halfway ledge. Straight up past RB to crack. Either top out or use BARFJ anchors just L.

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

• All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
• Don't ever chip holds.
• Don't paint on any new initials.
• Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.