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Description

To access base walk down gully on right just off walking track after the bottom of the stairs. Alternatively rap in above Iconoclast (double ropes needed, probably for both rappels). Rebelay on ledge 20m down or on DRBB about 40m down.

Ethic inherited from Kaputar

Endorsed by:
Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, Scott Camps, Richard Curtis, Taib Ezekiel, Angus Farquhar, Adrian Kladnig, Vanessa Wills (some of whom would have preferred a stronger position).

Retro-bolting at Kaputar

Since the first climbs were done in Mount Kaputar National Park in the 1960s, it has been a predominantly trad climbing area. Until about ten years ago, most of the hundreds of established climbs were protected entirely with natural gear. A small number of climbs had one or two bolts, and a few independent, fully bolt-protected climbs had been done. The 80m north face of The Governor has been regarded as one of the premier trad crags in Australia, with more than 80 multi-pitch climbs, many of very high quality, mostly established in ground-up style and with only a few bolts in total (and often at the technical limit of the climbers).

Since about 2005, more bolt-protected climbs have been established, particularly on Euglah and then Mt Lindesay, then The Governor. At first these were independent of established trad climbs and on otherwise unprotectable rock. But over the past few years other climbers have been retro-bolting over the top of existing climbs. This practice began on Mt Lindesay and then extended onto the Governor.

On Lindesay, about 200 bolts were placed, most of which retro-bolt or impact on at least 20 existing climbs. Bolts were very close together and some bolted lines were only one metre apart. Many bolts were placed beside good placements for removable gear. Numerous chains were also installed at the cliff-top, and the climb grades were painted in large letters along the bottom. Some of the bolts were found to be dangerous – either glue-ins on which the glue never cured (and which pulled out by hand) or dangerously short ‘studs’.

These were not assessable without removing them. Some of the retro-bolted Lindesay climbs are on the bold side, while others are very well protected with natural gear.

On The Governor, at least 60 bolts were been placed which either retro-bolt existing climbs, or squeeze up very close to them. Natural lines on The Governor’s columnar structure tend be only a couple of metres apart, so any new bolted climbs will impact on adjacent trad routes. Eight climbs have been impacted, including the popular moderate classic Clandestiny, and it's start that gives access to five other climbs. Additional chain anchors have been installed at the cliff-top. Some of the new Governor bolts have also been found to be dangerous, including a chain anchor with un-cured glue.

The retro-bolting on both Mt Lindesay and The Governor was visually intrusive, using large stainless ring bolts or shiny stainless brackets.

The people who have done this retro-bolting are not known to have consulted with first ascensionists, other Kaputar climbers or NPWS. Some first ascensionists and other climbers are angry.

Action

A number of climbers who love the special qualities of Kaputar climbing became very concerned about this trend and joined together to take action. The objectives are to restore The Governor to a premier trad-only crag (i.e. no sport routes), and to remove impacts on pre-existing routes on Mt Lindesay (retro-bolting etc). Most of the offending new bolts have now been removed and patched on both cliffs and the remainder will be removed shortly. Painted grades have been cleaned off. This has taken lot of work, time and expense by a bunch of people. If any of the bolts removed from these climbs are replaced, they will also be removed. Any new retro-bolting will also be removed.

Why have we taken this action?

Because we believe the following:

  • Existing trad climbs and quality trad crags should be retained in their original condition. That means no retro-bolting and no bolting that impacts on the integrity, or ‘hanging space’, of natural lines. Good trad cliffs, and trad climbs in general, are limited resources which need protection.
  • Retro-bolting on established climbs should be opposed and rectified.
  • National parks exist to protect natural areas. Therefore the environmental impact of climbing should be minimised in national parks. Trad climbing is generally low in impact, consistent with other activities like remote bushwalking. The Plan of Management for Mt Kaputar National Park (2006, section 4.3.9, page 37 – emphasis added) states: The NPWS will provide information and guidance on Service policy to visitors wishing to undertake adventure activities in the park, and will require minimal impact use of the park for these activities.
  • Excessive and unsightly bolting or other climbing impacts in national parks risk attracting the disapproval of other park visitors and park authorities, and may threaten ongoing climber access to these areas.

Trad climbing at Kaputar

Trad climbing at Kaputar requires judgment and skill. Important skills include route-finding, down-climbing (when necessary) and finding and using natural gear placements - which are often small wires or cams/nuts in unexpected places. Kaputar is a good place to learn and apply these skills because it offers trad climbs at a wide range of grades.

Protection is often very good but not always obvious from below. Poor protection is usually mentioned in route descriptions, and/or allowed for in the grading (i.e. increased grade for poor protection). Bold routes on Mt Lindesay can be easily top-roped. Route descriptions on thecrag.com will be amended where necessary to assist safe climbing on climbs that were previously retro-bolted. But climbers should always be wary of attempting trad climbs that are close to the limit of their ability.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Novel

Start: An alcove with recrystallised nodular rock where a crack should perhaps be.

FA: Joe Friend (Solo), 1977

Up friable rock trending left to corner and onto arete then cracks and blocks to anchor on ledge

Immediately left of 'Patient Scruff'. Bolts through short roof to anchor on ledge

The first good direct crackline.

Start: About 10m right of 'Crystalline Shoeshine'. Marked.

FA: Rod Davies & Trevor Gynther, 1975

A nice warm up for the hard men.

Start: 10m right of 'Patient Scruff', the middle of three lines through the overhang.

  1. 18m (24) Up strenuously through roof (crux), follow crackline on wall to stance.

  2. 12m (-) Follow natural line to top.

FA: Tobon Sorrensen & John Allen, 1979

Start: Star as for 'Acid Test'

  1. 15m (-) Up through bulges as for A.T, then follow easy cracks on left to bottom of scrubby chimney.

  2. 50m (20) (crux). Bridge up chimney then right into groove. Straight up to ledge then up thin crack then easier ground to top.

FA: Ian Brown & Paul Colyvan, 1982

Mostly good 18 except for two hard bits. Takes the line up the buttress between 'Evil Times' and 'Acid Test'.

Start: As for 'Acid Test'.

  1. 40m (20) (crux) Up through the bulges as for 'Acid Test'. Continue up shallow corners and slightly right to a small ledge below a prominent sloping roof. Turn it via a break on its right and traverse 2m left into the corner in the middle of the buttress. Follow it to a good ledge.

  2. 30m (-) Up the grassy corner a few meters then difficult moves left to the crack that splits the nose. Superb climbing to a small ledge and a trick short crack on the left to a large ledge. A short problematic bulging wall leads to the top.

FA: Ian Brown & Chris Newman, 1982

The easiest break through the overhanging territory.

Start: 7m right of 'One for the Road'.

  1. 20m (19) Straight up for 7m then up trending right to base of big corner on right side of roof.

  2. 45m (21) Up the corner then up the obvious line taking in 2 cracks, the final one leading to the top.

FA: Kevin Lindorf & Richard Curtis, 1982

Start: As for 'Acid Test'.

  1. 20m (19) (crux)As for 'Acid Test'.

  2. 25m (-) Up the corner as for AT to ledge then step right 2m to twin cracks and follow these to the next ledge.

  3. 20m (-) Straight up tricky cracks behind belay

FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvernet, 1982

  1. 30m (20) (Crux) Up through bulges as for 'Acid Test' then traverse 8m down and right into blind overhanging corner. Continue around nose onto slab then up through loose blocks to ledge on left (on 'Acid Test'). Terrible rope problems consider a belay before the hard bit of the traverse.

  2. 20m (-) Follow line on right to grassy ledge with huge block. Climb seam on left to ledge on left.

  3. 38m (-) Right of line above corner. Up with difficulty, then follow cracks, trending left through a squeeze.

FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvernet, 1982

A superb climb that takes a rising traverse line from 'Acid Test' to about The Promised Land including a daunting traverse of the main roofs. Exposed, Sustained and spectacular.

Start: As for 'Acid Test'

  1. 40m (20) Up through bulges and traverse rightwards from second triangular overhang, along lip of overhangs into shallow corner. Hard moves around nose as for Forbidden Delights, and easy rising line into next corner (bottom of 'The Real McCoy' corner). Drop down and around onto slab. Up and right to bottom of 'Twilight Time' corner.

  2. 30m (20) Horizontally below corners into Sago Entree. Across to and up the short V-groove of 'Iconoclast' to its main line. Right and slightly up to obvious jug on arete. Traverse horizontally across two awkward black walls to foot ledge in 'Gun Control'.

  3. 15m (20) Traverse horizontally right to good ledge on nose (high runners in crack). Along boldly to next crack (White Heat) and up to pedestal.

  4. 18m (23) Horizontally around blunt nose and continue with increasing difficulty into recess capped by large black overhangs. Across to first belay os 'Sky Pilot'.

  5. 25m (21) Across into maze of blocky overhangs. Trend to far top righthand corner to make an exciting exit into crackline. Follow crack for about 10m and move right to small ledge at bottom of black corner.

  6. 25m (22) Straight around nose to yellow corner. Continue across wall into another corner, up to roof and move right into hanging corner. Bold bridging up to hanging belay about 5m below roof.

  7. 42m (18) Traverse across 3 grooves and down slightly to obvious footledge on skyline arete. Up and across below line of roofs, around end and up clean crack to top.

FA: Chris Dale & Ian Brown (varied leads), 1983

Start: As for 'Clandestiny'.

  1. 20m (-) Do the 'Clandestiny' traverse and continue a rising traverse leftwards to belay 5m below the obvious V corner of 'Twilight Time'.

  2. 25m (18) Step 2m left and down to make an easy unprotected traverse left 5m to the shallow corner line up black rock. Up this to belay on ledge.

  3. 40m (18) Straight up, getting easier after initial bulges.

FA: Kevin Lindorf & Richard Curtis. alt, 1982

Quite pleasant.

Start: As for 'Clandestiny'.

  1. 30m (17) (crux) As for pitch 1 of 'Twilight Time' to a prickly bush at base of big corner. Traverse left across slab into line running up left side of undercut prow (between 'Twilight Time' and The Real McCoy).

  2. 35m (-) Straight up obvious line.

FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvenet, 1982

A reasonable clime with a sustained crux.

Start: As for 'Clandestiny'.

  1. 22m (-) Up slab and take the obvious leftward rising traverse as for 'Clandestiny' but continue left to base of big corner. Semi hanging belay.

  2. 40m (17) (crux) Continue directly up corner and chimney. Watch loose rock up high.

  3. 10m (-) Easy to top.

FA: Andrew Penny & L Zuiderduin, 1978

  1. 22m (-) As for 'Twilight Time' pitch 1.

  2. 22m (19) Move back right into line up to ledge where the line forks. Take the right crack to vines beside pedestal.

  3. 35m (19) Jam up crack through bulge and offwidth to broken ground. Finish up chimney or cracked wall on left.

FA: Justin Gouvernet & Ian Brown, 1982

Good value.

Start: As for 'Clandestiny'.

  1. 28m (18) (crux) Up slab as for 'Clandestiny' to belay of that climb, then a couple of awkward moves left around the arete into the next climb.

  2. 26m (-) Up the corner to a good ledge with lower offs or:

  3. 28m (-) Easily to top.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Paul Bayne & Greg Pritchard, 1981

Start: 4m left of Sago Entree. In the printed guides all the lines having the Clandestiny start are described as having scant protection on the traverse.

  1. 26m (16) Up on slab, leftwards, until crack is reached, zig-zagging makes the route to the ledge easier.

  2. 26m (16) Directly up line, some great bridging to ledge. The central section is a little scrappy but improves at the top.

  3. 20m (-) Easily to top with at least 3 alternatives.

FA: Joe Friend, John Zuiderduin & Matt Zuiderduin., 1978

The proud line, first completed route on the cliff.

Start: 25-30m right of 'Patient Scruff' below a dominating crack that splits and goes though a prow. Marked.

  1. 30m (20) (Crux) Directly up 20m to roof above a big loose block. Poor protection. Swing up to an alcove and semi hanging belay.

  2. 30m (-) Also somwhat difficult. A second overhang then the angle begins to ease.

  3. 15m (-) Easily to top.

FA: Joe Friend & Trevor Gynther (alt), 1973

FFA: Jim Grelis & Richard Curtis (alt), 1976

Start as for Sago Entree.

  1. 30m (-) Up 'Sago Entrée'. for a bit then traverse right below overhung buttress to the adjacent line and up it to a semi-hanging belay.

  2. 25m (-) Continue up line through a triangular overhang. Belay below overhanging top section of the crack.

  3. 25m (20) (crux) Finish up the line.

FA: Richard Curtis (p2 & 3) Brian Birchall (p1), 1976

FFA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bain (alt), 1981

Not a very indepentent line. A wonderful first half with a contrived finish-probably better to finish up the crux of 'Iconoclast'. The climb follows the eye-catching crack on the right wall of 'Iconoclast', as well as it may.

Start: As for 'Spook'.

  1. 30m (20) (crux) Up as for 'Spook' to shattered pillar at 10m and climb it to the roof. Move around left into crack and follow it strenuously to belay on top of the 'Iconoclast' roof.

  2. 20m (20 M0) Move back right into the crack and follow it to merge with 'Iconoclast' corner. Climb the Icon corner for about 5m until it gets steep and hard. Traverse left and up, over a loose rounded block, into the left-most crackline. Using one point of aid, surmount the blind crack to reach broken ground.

  3. 25m (-) Easily to top.

FA: Ian Brown, Warwick Payten & Chris Newman, 1982

"It had to go"

Start: 5m right of 'Iconoclast' and left of a triangular overhang.

  1. 12m (-) Avoid the overhang on the left side, move right above overhang to belay.

  2. 40m (19) (crux) From right hand end of belay ledge, straight up corner to obvious roof, traverse left under roof to crackline near arete, straight up crackline to belay stance.

  3. 20m (-) Beautiful climbing up corner/crack to top.

FA: 1.2.Richard Curtis & 3. Brian Birchall, 1979

Start: Directly below the low overhang that 'Spook' avoids.

  1. 17m (20) Up to low roof and turn this on the right. Belay as for 'Spook'.

  2. 40m (20) As for 'Spook' to below slanting roof then move right and around onto wall. Up seam to converge with spook.

  3. 20m (-) As for 'Spook'.

FA: Kevin Lindorf & Richard Curtis (var), 1982

Start: The corner 2m right of 'Spook'. Marked.

Up corner to roof then step right to bolt. Through overlap and up black seam on thin face moves. Old chains at 50 metres.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1987

Protection on the crux adequate but difficult to place.

Start: Just left of 'White Heat'

  1. 30m (22) (crux) Climb a small pillar of broken rock, moving left at about head height to incipient crack with overhang at about 10m. Up this to semi-hanging belay.

  2. 50m (-) Continue up line taking in the roof with diagonal crack.

  3. 30m (-) Easily to top

FA: Richard Curtis & Richard Morris. var

Get up close and personal with the roofs. As you climb directly underneath them and traverse into the final moves of the great barrier roof.

Start: Up pillar as for 'Gun Control'

  1. 20m (17) Start up pillar as for 'Gun Control'. Head up under the roof and then continue along directly under the rising roofs to the right. Belay at nest of slings where 'Sky Pilot' breaks through the roof.

  2. 10m (22) Step right and up 2m to place an excellent piece high in roof before descending down 1m and across 5m to make break in top of great barrier roof. Remember to consider your second!! A good knee and a couple of jambs might help before making a good stance above the roof with a view back to the last belay.

  3. 50m (17) Continue up crack 6m then traverse right 5m under and around small roof to make arete. Follow obvious crack line to the top.

FFA: Matt Walpole & Dave Biggs

A classic roof problem.

Start: Marked. 9m right of 'Spook', below extreme left end of main overhangs

  1. 36m (24) (crux) Tough thin crack splitting middle of roof, follow crack to belay stance.

  2. 41m (-) Follow natural line to top.

FA: Tobin Sorensen & John Allen, 1979

Start: 3m right of 'White Heat'.

  1. 30m (19) (crux) Up crack then take a diagonal line up to left hand end of roof then step left around the arete and up to good crack to belay ledge.

  2. 50m (-) Continue up line to top.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Richard Curtis. alt, 1980

A fine crackline.

Start: Below two tiered roof, about 5m right of 'White Heat'.

  1. 30m (23) (crux) Take corner crack directly below two tiered roof for about 8m, traverse left on horizontal crack into first crackline which splits the side of the buttress. Up crack to belay stance.

  2. 40m (-) Follow natural line to top.

FA: Tobin Sorensen & John Allen (alt), 1979

The big line that weaves through the main roofs at their left hand end.

Start: About 3m right of 'Double Trouble'.

  1. 30m (20) Obvious broken slab with a tricky mantle to get going. Trend steeply up right for 20m to the obvious break in roofs. Semi-hanging belay.

  2. 30m (20) Delicate and tricky moves lead to bridging problems over the cracks above. Step left from double cracks and gingerly across the second roof. Pull through to a second, better semi-hanging belay.

  3. 15m (-) More easily to top.

FA: Joe Friend (unseconded), 1977

Takes a short, pronounced, orange V cleft through the first band of overhangs to the right of 'Skypilot'. The first pitch was led with help from tension on the rope but seconded free.

Tension traverse on pitch 1 eliminated, grade remains at 21.

Start: About 10m from the left hand end of the shattered wall.

  1. 33m (21) (crux) Climb up the wall to the short orange V cleft and through this to a rest, then up to next roof for protection and step down left and traverse further left and up to semi-hanging belay of 'Sky Pilot'.

  2. 26m (-) Up to top of jamb crack in common with 'Sky Pilot', continue up and right then traverse left about 5m, right under overhang and up and around its righthand end. Continue up groove to belay about 10m above overhang below corner.

  3. 16m (-) Continue up corner to top.

FA: J Nelson & R Curtis. alt, 1979

A sustained penetration of huge overhangs.

Start: As for 'Blood on the Moon'.

  1. 30m (23) crux) Up shattered wall to orange offwidth, traverse directly right on lip of overhang to arete, up arete to horizontal undercling, traverse left and up crack splitting top overhangs.

  2. 37m (-) Follow natural line to top.

FA: Tobin Sorensen & John Allen (alt), 1979

Start: At the seam 8m left of 'The Millionaire Touch'.

  1. 25m (-) Up the seam to small overhang, right and up past BR Up more steeply (BR and fixed wire), then left at easier angle (fixed wire) to HDBB.

  2. 22m (23) (crux) Step out and left past BR, then traverse 3m left with feet just above overhangs to good crack. Up this until you can move left to crack on arete. Up to SHB.

  3. 33m (-) Up line.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1987

Takes the central roofs at their narrowest point.

Start 15m left of 'Soul on Ice', just right of a large boulder.

  1. 25m (-) Up vague line in the shattered wall tending left to a shattered pillar with very small stance on top (with nuts above)

  2. 33m (24) (crux) Right and up onto undercut wall then up and right for 5m then awkwardly up line to below two lines.

  3. 45m (-) Up and left into undercut corner. Up to top.

FA: K Lindorff, 1, 2, 3. P Bain & R Curtis, 1982

Start: Below right hand end of main overhangs, left of 'The Promised Land'.

  1. 40m (22) (crux) Up orange rock to right of overhanging buttress. Traverse left into dihedral up middle of buttress. Up this to roof with V-crack on left, over roof to stance.

  2. 40m (-) Up line.

FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen, 1979

Takes the soaring line 5m left of 'Pomp and Circumstance'.

  1. 42m (22) (equal crux) Up the line to where a broken crack goes up the left wall. A hanging belay can be taken here on SLCD's or do as the first ascensionists did - (traverse right to a small sloping ledge)

  2. 50m (22) (equal crux) Continue up the main line curving left to the lowest part of the small overhang. Through overhang and up for 5m to join crack on right side of arete. Up more easily to top.

FA: Kevin Lindorff (1) Richard Curtis (2), 1982

  1. 20m (22) Through broken bulge wiht poor pro and up seam on wall to good ledge on right (first belay on 'Pomp and Circumstance').

  2. 15m (23) (crux) Up crack as for 'Pomp and Circumstance' for 8m, then em left and up short corner to small stance on right.

  3. 40m (21) Up, 1m right in to twin cracks and up wall and corner.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1983

Start: At the V-groove and wall 8m left of 'The Resistance Principle'.

  1. 30m (-) Up V-groove and wall then right around base of square cut pedestal and up to ledge. Up crack on left to top of small pinnacle, then down other side to alcove and ledge.

  2. 15m (22) Straight up for 7m, right and up around arete to small grassy ledge.

  3. 45m (22) Up twin cracks to PR and wire placement, up until angle eases. Up wall.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Paul Bayne & Brian Birchall, 1982

Start: 3m right of tree halfway between 'Pomp and Circumstance' and 'The Resistance Principle'.

  1. 30m (18?) Up incipient crack to top of pedestal on right.

  2. 10m (18?) Up left to deep crack which leads to second belay on 'Pomp and Circumstance'.

  3. 45m (22) As for Pitch 3 of 'Pomp and Circumstance'.

FA: Ian Brown & Paul Colyvan, 1982

Start: 9m left of 'Bum Leeper'.

  1. 40m (-) Up corner to top of pedestal on left then up and right to small sloping ledge and SHB.

  2. 47m (21) (crux) Up flake-crack on left for 6m, then diagonally right to ledge. Up, left to good crack, up to roof, then around right and up.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Brian Birchall, 1982

Start: 3m right of 'The Resistance Principle'.

  1. 35m (-) Up intermittent thin crack through two bulges. After second bulge, traverse left into corner (to about where 'The Resistance Principle' leaves it) Straight up corner to roof (using arete for one move). Exit left under roof to belay above arete.

  2. 7m (-) Traverse right to the second corner right of 'A Wolf in the Heart'.

  3. 50m (-) Up corner and follow line to top.

FA: Kevin Lindorf & Richard Curtis (Var), 1982

This climb now has more pitches added and is included as the first pitch of 'A Wolf in the Heart'. See the entry for 'Bum Leeper' for full explanation.

FA: Richard Curtis, Jim Nelson & Brian Birchal, 1979

This replaces Bum Leeper, the crux pitch of which was destroyed by falling rock. For full details of the rationale for the changes see the description for 'Bum Leeper'.

Start: 2m left of the original start of 'Bum Leeper'.

  1. 40m (-) Climb up for about 20 metres to a groove which slants leftwards. Climb this, exiting with difficulty close to the first belay of 'Bum Leeper'.

  2. 30m (23) (crux). This is the new pitch which replaces the original second pitch of 'Bum Leeper' which was destroyed by a rock fall. Move left and up to the bottom of a right-facing, clean corner. (It has a fine crack in its left wall which will take small gear). Up this with difficulty at start.

  3. 23m (-) Move slightly right and up the corner above.

FA: Richard Curtis (2), Ben Christian (1 & 3), 2000

As noted in the Rock Magazine guidebook, a huge block had fallen off the climb since their description was written. During Easter 2000 Richard Curtis and Ben Christian visited the Governor and inspected the climb. The huge block described was in fact the whole of the overhang at the top of pitch 2. To climb the beginning of pitch 2 originally entailed negotiating a very large but thin flake which leaned against the right wall of the corner covering a large part of its bottom half. The falling block had completely demolished this and completely changed the nature and difficulty of the pitch. A large amount of shattered rock lodged in the corner and on the ledge below was removed and the route was climbed at grade 23. (Probably technically 22 but sustained enough to give it 23 taking into account fairly sparse and difficult to place protection). The new pitch was accessed via 'The Governor' (18) which ends near the start of pitch 2 of Bum Leeper. As pitch 2 was the crux of that climb and now bears no relation to its original state, Curtis recorded a new climb called A Wolf in the Heart which is a combination of 'the Governor' (an excellent pitch at grade 18) but with no finish, and pitch 2 of what had been Bum Leeper.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1975

FFA: Richard Curtis & Jim Nelson, 1979

  1. 45m (-) Up 'Bum Leeper' for 10m then right into next crack-line just above overhang. Up to pedestal adn short, tricky corner to stance on left.

  2. 22m (20) (crux) Corner on right of belay (next one right of 'Sang Froid' pitch 3), directly above tricky corner until it fades then right into next corner.

  3. 15m (-) Up, right and up as for 'Guided Missile'.

FA: Ian Brown & Paul Colyvan, 1983

Start: At an indefinite corner below an overhang with reddish rock on the face left and below. Initialled.

  1. 30m (20) (equal crux) Up through overhang and continue up crack to ledges. Belay on second ledge.

  2. 30m (-) Easy crack at back of ledge to top of boulder wedged in fissure. Belay.

  3. 33m (20) (equal crux) Left into bottom of clean cut corner. Sustained climbing for about another 14m then more easily to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Jim Grellis. alt., 1976

  1. 25m (19) (crux) Up through roof as for 'Tigger (is Unbounced)', then traverse right into next line and up to bushes.

  2. 15m (-) Up to first belay on 'Guided Missile', then up and right on big blocks to ledge in short, clean corner.

  3. 40m (-) Up crack passing roof on its right at 10m. This pitch takes a line between 'Pastures of Plenty' and 'Borrowed Time'.

FA: Ian Brown & Warwick Payten, 1983

Start: Below handjamb crack right of 'Tigger (is Unbounced)'.

  1. 30m (17) (crux) Up groove trending right into a good crack and up to belay ledge and tree.

  2. 20m (-) Step left from the ledge then take the cracks and ribs above to a small belay stance.

  3. 30m (-) Continue up trending right to the top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Jim Grellis (alt), 1976

  1. 42m (-) As for 'Guided Missile' to overhang at 10m, then right into another crack-line. Up this to grassy alcove.

  2. 45m (20) (crux) Up right to large ledge. Up short clean corner to left. Bridge up twin cracks right of the vines, past roof and up.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Ian Brown & Stuart Wilson, 1982

The main corner to the right of 'Guided Missile'. Initialled.

  1. 30m (-) Up corner to where it becomes a channel shaped crack and steepens at about 24m. Left and up to large ledge. (exciting).

  2. 30m (20) (crux) Step back right and up a series of cracks which split an overhanging rib. Up to stance where line becomes blind and steep.

  3. 30m (-) Traverse right into corner and up to top.

FA: Brian Birchall & Richard Curtis. (alt), 1977

Start: As for 'Borrowed Time'.

  1. 50m (22) Straight up main corner to stance.

  2. 30m (-) Up the corner.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1985

Start: 1m right of 'Borrowed Time'.

  1. 50m (-) Up wall and vague crack to first pro at 6m. Traverse right to alcove and coloured rock below main crack. Up to chimney-like feature at about 18m. Up on widening bridging. Bombproof pro.

  2. 30m (18) As for 'Horrendous Episode'.

FA: Joe Friend, A Queenslander & Richard Thomas, 1978

The thin crack-line which weaves up the the right wall of 'Borrowed Time' corner.

Start: 5m right of 'Borrowed Time'.

  1. 47m (-) Boulder start then up line to sloping ledge.

  2. 43m (-) Up crack to ledge, then up cracked arete.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1983

A scary lead even though pro is adequate.

  1. 30m (-) Up arete 2m left of 'Horrendous Episode' to bulge (Cams in crack around left). Tend left through bulge, then up to BR. Up left side of arete until vague horizontal break leads right to stance on arete. Up to ledge.

  2. 20m (-) Left in to 'chimney' and up as for 'Straight Talking' to ledge.

  3. 30m (-) Up corner on right as for 'Horrendous Episode'.

FA: Paul Bayne & Mark Colyvan, 1985

Take no notice of the name which came about because most of Brian's runners fell out on the last (quality) pitch. Start may still be initialed.

  1. 30m (-) Up scrubby, channel-shaped line to where you can step right to the first belay ledge of 'Pooh Invents a New Game'.

  2. 20m (-) Step back into the line and up crack to its top. Step over top of rib to second belay of 'Pooh Invents a New Game'.

  3. 43m (18) (crux) (not visible on topo) Up the obvious big corner.

FA: Brian Birchall & Richard Curtis (alt), 1977

  1. 25m (-) Easily up corner till the line divides at about 10m. Go left here and then up to an obvious belay ledge below a chimney.

  2. 25m (-) Up chimney to 2nd belay of 'Horrendous Episode'.

  3. 43m (18) (crux) (not visible on topo). Up the corner as for 'Horrendous Episode'.

FA: Richard Curtis & Jim Grelis. (alt), 1976

A short downward traverse which connects 'Pooh Invents a New Game' to 'Red Disc'. It provides a grade 16 route for moderate grade climbers up a high part of the cliff.

  1. 25m (-) As for 'Pooh Invents a New Game'.

  2. 25m (-) As for 'Pooh Invents a New Game' until you are a couple of metres higher than the crux of 'Red Disc' to your right. Make a balancy traverse down and right to the slab which ends the crux of 'Red Disc', then up the last section of pitch one of 'Red Disc'. Belay as for 'Red Disc'.

  3. 48m (-) The second pitch of 'Red Disc'.

FA: Richard Curtis & Richard Morris, 1981

An alternative second pitch for 'Red Disc' at a grade which better matches that of pitch one.

  1. 45m (19) As for 'Red Disc'.

  2. 48m (21) Up diagonally left to a groove which heads up the wall left of the second pitch of 'Red Disc'. Straight up the groove through small bulges to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & John Oddie, 1997

Start: Takes the righthand branch of 'Pooh Corner'.

  1. 45m (19) (crux) Up to an overhanging V groove. Through this and onto a slab on the right. Up past a small tree and continue to a good belay ledge.

  2. 48m (-) Up well formed cracks to top.

FA: Jim Grelis & Richard Curtis (alt), 1976

"Spend a year in a couple of hours on the edge of Beasley Street" John Cooper Clarke

Start: 3m left of 'Micawber'.

  1. 30m (-) Up obvious weakness, going left up the wall around roof to SHB.

  2. 35m (22) (crux) Step right, up, then back left under overlap and straight up line to easier ground.

  3. 38m (-) Up more easily.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Brian Birchall, 1981

FFA: Mark Colyvan & Anthony Brennan, 1986

"Something is sure to turn up" - Mr Micawber Start: The left of two lines behind a tree. Initialled.

  1. (21) (crux) Up to overlap which is passed on the left. Continue up to blind section. Beautiful fine bridging to another overlap. Over this and step right to a strenuous crack and up this to stance.

  2. (-) Step off pillar into crack and delightful well protected climbing to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall (alt), 1977

Large tooth of rock visible above makes this one of the more obvious starts.

  1. 40m (19) (crux) Up with some trepidation through small roof then up crack. Hard traverse left to go up left side of crack and chockstone to belay above tooth.

  2. 43m (19) (crux) Step right into crack overcoming roof. On to easier ground.

FA: R. Curtis(1) J. Nelson(2) B Birchall, 1979

  1. 40m (-) As for 'Smike' pitch 1.

  2. 23m (2) (crux) Climb fine clean corner behind belay and continue to top of huge block where vines loom ahead. Right around rib, back into easy ground of original line.

  3. 22m (-) Up.

FA: Ian Brown & Justin Gouvernet, 1982

"We mean it man"

Start: As for 'Air Raid'.

  1. ?m (-) Up 'Air Raid' for a few moves, then left up line on wall. Some stiff moves on orange rock then up line.

  2. ?m (-) Up then left then up to some mank right and up.

FA: Joe Strummer, Bernard Wietlisbach & Johnny Rotten, 1978

Start: As for Air Raid.

  1. 33m (19) (crux) Up 'Air Raid' for about 8m. Traverse left and up first crackline to the right of 'Tory Crimes', ignoring righthand branch near top of pitch. Belay on ledge.

  2. 37m (19) (crux) (The Glad Bag Finish) Step left avoiding crack with vine at top, into bottomless offwidth. Strenuously up this till top of crack is almost within reach. Move left and up to ledge. Climb wall into rightward trending crack to small stance below final short crack to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall (alt), 1979

The route which brought about the end of the climbing ban on the cliff.

Start: The major righthand corner after 'Pure and Simple'. Initialled. Double ropes advised.

  1. 42m (-) Up corner until a semi-hanging belay can be found using a large chock at about 42m.

  2. 20m (20) (crux) Delicate bridging to narrow ledge. Traverse 2.5m right and up finger crack. Trend up leftwards until an obvious undercling traverse can be made to the left. At the end of this climb crack for about 5m until it is possible to move back right around rib to a poor stance.

  3. 18m (-) Up crack for a few metres then trend right to the top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1977

Start: 4m right of 'Air Raid'.

  1. 45m (-) Up crack to a hanging belay where the crack widens.

  2. 37m (-) Straight up the line.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1982

"I keep slipping back."

Start: Ten metres right of 'Air Raid' Old marking may still be visible (R)

  1. 20m (-) Up easy crack trending left to a good belay ledge.

  2. 40m (21) (crux) Up corner crack to semi-hanging belay by bollard on left.

  3. 30m (-) Continue to top.

FA: Richard Curtis (2) Richard Morris (1 & 3), 1981

A daunting bypass of the main right hand roofs.

Start: In alcove 4m right of 'The Recidivist Direct'.

  1. 30m (-) Up crack on right to roof. balancy step back left 3m to corner.

  2. 25m (-) Up corner with increasing difficulty, then across right wall to regain right hand crack-line. Belay near bush.

  3. 30 (-) Up more directly to top.

FA: Joe Friend & Leon Lerer, 1977

Start as for Sunset Strip below a 12m shallow chimney initialled SS.

Pitches 1 and 2. Takes a series of small grooves and ribs to the left of Sunset Strip. Belay halfway where adequate pro can be found. Middle of climb is trickiest.

FA: R. Curtis C. Southwell L. Kavalieris, 1977

Start: Marked

  1. 45m (-) Up shallow chimney, turn roof on left, move back right then on sloping holds to small bulge. Bridge over to SHB in crack.

  2. 15m (-) The crack.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Joe Friend, 1973

Start: About 12m right of 'Sunset Strip'.

  1. 7m (-) Up easy angled groove to ledge below bulge. Belay.

  2. 46m (18) (crux) Through crack in bulge (trickier than it looks). Continue up trending left to 2m left of big overhang near loose block. Step left and up crack splitting rib to stance below corner with roofs at top. Up corner and exit right under roofs onto stance below final thin crack to top.

FA: Brian Birchall & Richard Curtis (alt), 1979

Start at a crack-line just before the gully at the right-hand end of the main face. Initialed. Twin ropes are useful to avoid rope drag around the roof.

  1. 20m (-) From a reddish boulder climb via a series of cracks to a belay stance below a roof which slants upwards from right to left.

  2. 33m (16) (crux) From the left end of the belay ledge, climb the rib to bypass the roof on its left (delicate) then step back right to the bottom of a wide crack. Climb the crack for a couple of moves until it is possible to step onto the easy wall on its right (avoiding the vines which block the crack at this point). Savour the fun slab moves up the right wall and then easy cracks to the top. - Good placements for trad gear can be found for a belay on the right, close to where the climb ends.

FA: Bob Rugo (USA). Richard Curtis (alt), 1976

Start: 3m left of 'Delayed Reaction'.

Up through bulge then large square roof. Take twin cracks on right side of roof and up.

FA: Anthony Brennan & Warwick Payten, 1985

Start: The corner a few metres left of 'Abbey Road'.

Up.

FA: Paul Colyvan & Justin Gouvernet, 1982

Start: 2m left of 'The Crescent'.

  1. 30m (12) Up into narrow chimney and up to ridge-top.

  2. 15m (-) Across bridge to main summit.

FA: Joe Friend (solo), 1977

A classic chimney. Start: Marked.

  1. 30m (13) (crux) Line on right wall of far right gully to short bottomless chimney. Up this to top of ridge.

  2. 15m (-) Across bridge to main summit.

FA: R Rugo, S Greathead & J Kelman, 1976

Start: At a small overhang 8m right of 'The Crescent'.

  1. 30m (16) (crux) Swing up to the big stance below corner or traverse in from left. Bridge up clean corner-crack with good pro.

  2. 15m (-) Across bridge to main summit

FA: Joe Friend (solo), 1977

Cleaner than 'Ambleside' as it avoids the crack full of vines.

  1. 30m (17) As for 'Ambleside' pitch 1 except instead of stepping back left into crack from the ledge partway up, climb the middle of the wall in front.

  2. 15m (-) Across bridge to main summit

FA: Anthony Brennan & M Cahill, 1986

Start: 12m right of 'The Crescent'.

  1. 30m (15) (crux) Pull up through overhang then up corner to vertical wall. Up left over the arete and step left into jamb crack to the right of the vines.

  2. 15m (-) Across bridge to main summit

FA: Geoff Francis, Richard Thomas & Rod McClymont, 1978

Start: As for 'Baked Beans'.

Through overhang and up corner as for 'Baked Beans', then right around arete into thin right slanting crack. Up this moving left onto wall to avoid vegetation and dirt.

FA: Warwick Payten & Anthony Brennan, 1985

  1. 30m (12) Head up right of 'Baked Beans' going left at about half height - though there are many easier and harder alternatives.

  2. 15m (-) Across bridge to main summit.

FA: Joe Friend (solo), 1977

Start: On the SE face about 60m left of 'Learner's Permit' near two gum trees with holes burnt in them.

  1. 33m (-) Up short wall, over grassy terrace and wander up staircase to ledge.

  2. 33m (-) Step right and up wall. Follow ramp left to ledge.

  3. 17m (15) (crux) Up right hand crack.

FA: John Zuiderduin, Lindsay Jones & Mat Zuiderduin, 1979

Start: About 30m left of the second ladder on the SE face.

Follows a black streak.

  1. 33m (-) Short wall to large terrace, wander up right top ledge.

  2. 17m (-) Traverse 5m right then up the gully.

FA: Matt Zuiderduin, Barry Ryan & Mick Ryan, 1978

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