Site navigation

Information needed

This crag does not have approach information. Could you describe the approach to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'edit this crag' button near the top of the page.

Summary

Short well featured sandstone routes, mostly on machine bolts. Easy to set up top ropes. About 30 routes

Description

The small crag above the Lara St boulders. Follow the track straight up hill from the Cranberry boulder, a large boulder with ironstone swirls just to the left of the track. You walk over the top of Slab World which is down to the left. You meet the main crag at a small cave, which is at the left hand end of the crag. The track continues through a corridor between a large boulder with routes on it to the left, and some easy routes on the right. Instead contour right at base of cliff which is a series of stepped faces and arêtes, and includes three large eroded overhangs. Routes are described left to right, with gaps on walls not yet climbed. The crag ends just above Star boulder. There are several projects on ring bolts indicated with a tag on the first bolt. There are a number of U bolts and the odd hex bolt scattered across the top of the crag. The top is easily accessed from either end or via scrambles between overhangs.

Access issues

Best to abseil down and clean routes, especially if you want to top out, as the cliff top is covered in she oak needles. The hex heads are quite fiddly to get hangers over sometimes.

History

View historical timeline

Most routes were put up between 1995-2000 by David Forbes with some routes added by Richard Jeffrey and Paul Rivière.if there is knowledge of original names of climbs please change.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

The large boulder to the left of the main approach track. Has 3 u bolts on top for anchors. This is the left route on the south face. Come in from arête.

Climbs right arête of the south face

Boulder up 1m right of the bolted arête route, on the up hill wall facing the corridor the track runs through. Easily TR from a bolt immediately above

2m right of arête, just before small trees. Well featured.

Opposite the trackside boulder and 6m left of the twin cracks is a blunt arête, just past a ledge that is half way up the wall. This climbs the left side of the blunt arête

The right side of the blunt arête 6 m left of the cracks. Up to knob with slabby top out

On the east wall of the corridor, the left of 2 cracks going up to tree

On the east wall of the corridor, the thin crack going up to tree

Just right of the cracks is a juggy slab on great rock

The middle sports route on the east wall of the corridor

Balancy start from left onto face above small cave then up slab to bolt. 1m right of SS.

Down and right of small cave where track meets crag, as the direction of the cliff changes there is a boulder at track level with a diagonal seam leading to a scoop. Sit start, climb up through scoop then left to top out at large angaphora.

The first climb you come to after leaving the main track and contouring along the base of the cliff towards the caves. There are 4 routes just before the first honeycombed cave. Climb the chimney to ledge and step onto face following seam and flake ( wires) with small cams in horizontals. U bolt on platform above route

The blunt arête right of chimney.

Undercut start onto slab right of blunt arête

The overhung juggy left arête of the first cave. There is a bolt 3m back

Climb the overhanging crack on the left edge of the first major cave using only the crack for hands. It meets Fangs at its 3rd bolt and it's easy to walk off into the cave. Lead it on gear, top rope or solo

Climb the crack as for incy wincy but all hand holds are in.

Right side of first cave, sit start at undercut then up over prow

At the left side of the second cave start up arch to step left at second bolt and up face

Sit start to Cave 2 climb at undercut, up over prow .Easy to traverse off right when level with first bolt

Opposite the right side of the second cave is a pyramidal boulder with a narrow arête on the uphill side. Sit start and climb arête to top out.

Right of the third cave and just left of Fox wall is an arête with 2 ring bolts starting off a triangular boulder. U bolt on top. A finger sized cam will protect final moves.

Just right of corner on reddish slab to vertical finish. Single u bolt after topping out

1m right of RF, up to single bolt trending slightly right and top out. Using single u bolt to left.

Left of TD, bouldery slab to first bolt, mantle, then more easily to top. Use bolt above TD for anchor.

Awkward overhung start at small triangular cave feature where face abuts another block requiring hand jam, then more easily up arête

The left arête of the wall to the right of fox wall. Mind the tree. Ring bolts. Project, stay off.

The right side of wall starting at cairn. Project, stay off.

The arête at right side of wall . Climbs the right face. Unfortunately first bolt makes you swing around arête if you come off, just start with second clipped. A long sling over the edge from anchors on platform will protect last moves.

FFA: Vanessa Wills, Feb 2018

1m to right of arête with mantle to top out, the left most route on the wall with a chimney at its right end

The middle route on the wall, protected straight up with a cam, or step left to finish as for BA.

The route just left of chimney, add a few extra grades for the top mantle, but best to preplace anchor on tree and just lower off.

Bridge up between walls to slightly tricky finish

Just right of chimney up wall and arête. Grade 10 with preplaced anchors to avoid mantle. Ironstone buckets. There is a hex bolt above this route.

Interesting climbing on ironstone knobs. A u bolt above route. 2m R of J

Just right of arête on most rightward wall of crag, undercut start but huge jugs the whole way, opposite Star boulder.

Just left of where you walk up to set up anchors at right hand end of cliff line, up centre of well featured slab. After topping out anchor is a u bolt and a carrot about 4 m back ( as for ugs and knobs)

Activity

Check out what is happening in Lara Street Crag.