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Kiwi Fruit Jam Gully

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 15
7

Seasonality

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Summary

The large vegetated gully between Four Thumbs Faces and Ramona, with a scattering of quality lines.

Access issues inherited from Duck Reach

Annoyingly, there have been numerous recent reports of break-ins at the top carpark. Maybe consider taking any valuables down to the cliffs with you, or at least keep them stashed well out of sight.

Approach

The lower climbs are best accessed from river level. Rock hop upstream from Duck Reach for approx. 30 mins. If you reach Ramona Buttress, you’ve gone too far. The first climbs are located on the upstream wall of the gully.

Alternatively, approach via Hardwicke Street Reserve by locating the head of the gully (there is a contouring cairned track starting from the top right corner of the yard with the ruined house at Duck Reach carpark which links up with the established track network). From the powerline easement, walk upstream along the cliff line from the bottom left pylon to the head of the gully. Gelb Buttress is located here. A steep descent gets you down to river level.

Ethic inherited from Launceston (Cataract) Gorge

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (eskriver@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

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Routes

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Grade Route

On the lower cliffs near river level. The left line of the sharp recessed pillar.

The right line.

The jam corner just downhill of the previous two routes. Closest to the river and the first you’ll reach if approaching that way.

The nice looking widening finger crack. Located 2 minutes up the gully on the upstream wall.

Best accessed from above via Hardwicke Street Reserve.

Park on Hardwicke Street, or locate a cairned track starting from the top right corner of the yard with the ruined house at Duck Reach carpark, which links in to the established track network (10 - 15 minute walk total).

From the bottom left powerline pylon, follow the cliff line upstream - passing the head of Kiwi Fruit Jam Gully - to the top of some rocky outcrops. Locate the brilliant golden face, or the nice looking bolted arete (Heart of Gold) as a prominent identifying features. Rap in or scramble down the gully to the base of the climbs.

Left of HoG. Start in chimney, and left onto bolted face. Tree belay.

The brilliant double arete on the left end of the yellow face. DBB

Bridge/layaway up the yellow face/arete using the R block. At the horizontal rail (after clipping the 3rd bolt) - step out L and up the main wall. Avoid veering into the grovel chimney higher up for full value. Access via rap or a scramble down upstream terraces. DBB.

FA: Nick Morgan, Oct 2021

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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