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1st boulder

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 16
  • Aka: Beginning Buttress

Seasonality

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Description

The first large cliff/boulder you pass on the zig-zag track when walking from Kings Bridge.

Access issues inherited from The Gorge - Bouldering

Especially with all bouldering located on the main tracks, please be very courteous to walkers. It is your responsibility to move pads out of the way of all walkers and passers by, do not ask walkers to step over your pads. Access to bouldering in the gorge is a privilege so please treat it as such and represent the climbing community in a positive and friendly way.

Ethic inherited from Launceston (Cataract) Gorge

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (eskriver@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Routes

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Grade Route

Warning Rock: Loose holds

Climb up the blunt arête starting from the short slab below. Head to the top via sidepulls and crimps. Feels fairly tall when you get up onto it.

Historical Context: This boulder was first climbed by Gerry Narkowicz as a solo in 1985 and received the route grade of 24

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 1985

A classic ledge mantle, although somewhat height dependent. Start on some small crimps at head height, make a move up to the slanted rail and mantle up to a good hold and top out. The crack to the right is off. It may look scary, but the fall and landing are actually quite good.

The obvious crack on the right hand side of the boulder.

Historical context: This boulder was first climbed by Michael McHugh and Robert McMahon in 1972 and received the grade of 12

FA: Michael McHugh & Robert McMahon, 1972

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 19 Apr
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