Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Sunny Side Uphill Buttress | |||||
23 | ★ Felodese
Wall with one visible ring bolt (second is over a bulge) just left of the arete. Anchors are over the top and give a fair amount of drag if lowering. | 8m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Waiting for Kate
FA: D Kearnes, 2009 | 6m | |||
The Sunny Side Offal Buttress | |||||
16 | ★ Tripe
Three bolts on right, but climbing on both sides of the arete. Start on right behind a block. Direct start is possible starting left of block (place gear). Try not to fall off and shred your rope. FA: Michael Fox | 12m, 3 | |||
The Sunny Side Mickey Loves Anne Face | |||||
22 | ★★ Choking the Chicken
The arete with three bolts. FA: Fisher & Fox, 1995 | 10m, 3 | |||
The Sunny Side Shimmy Sheister Buttress | |||||
23 | ★★ Waiting for Bobbo
A #1 cam above the third bolt is helpful. Anchors hidden under tree to left of crack. FA: J Fisher, 1996 | 10m, 3 | |||
The Sunny Side Nighthawks Buttress | |||||
26 | Rising Gorge
| 13m | |||
The Sunny Side Trench-Foot Face | |||||
19 | ★ The Inspector
| 10m, 5 | |||
24 | ★ The Constable
On seperate pinnacle | 8m, 3 | |||
The Sunny Side On The Way Pinnacles | |||||
22 | ★★ Wings Over America
Follow the natural line of holds from the middle of the main face to the arrete on the right. Good rest at half way and then move left to a large side pull and up on large holds to the top. 2 bolts on top, best clipped with extended draws. First ascended as a free solo. FA: Patrick Munnings, 2 Jul 2020 | 8m, 2 | |||
The Sunny Side Aqua-Slick Buttress | |||||
22 | ★ McDonalds is good!
| 10m, 3 | |||
The Sunny Side Feltham Buttress | |||||
19 | ★ Out of Date Route
| 14m, 3 | |||
The Sunny Side Porker Pinnacle | |||||
25 | ★★ Brazen Serpent
| 10m, 3 | |||
The Sunny Side Ezra Buttress | |||||
23 | Unknown
The bolted arete upstream of Ezra. Two home made hangers sit on top of the cliff above the route. Contrived but good grade 23 if you avoid the block on the left. Alternatively, use the block and the climb becomes a rubbish 21/22. | 9m, 4 | |||
The Sunny Side Right Man Buttress | |||||
23 | ★★ Ng Man
FA: Danny Ng, 1988 | 12m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Godfather
The bolted arete/pillar R of Hot Gossip. Note - the large nob hold above the 4th bolt has recently lobbed off, completely changing the top sequence however this move is still consistent with the grade of the rest of the climb. FA: Danny Ng, 1990 | 11m, 4 | |||
The Sunny Side Lady Midnight Buttress | |||||
24 | ★ Scottish Fire
Step off ledge and onto bolted arete. Start is significantly harder now a crucial hold has broken off. Original grade stands if using tree at start. DBB FA: Danny Ng | 7m, 5 | |||
20 | ★★ Dreams of Broken Glass
Bolted line right of lady midnight. Climbs the face and arete, with delicate climbing between a couple of powerful moves. DBB FA: Gerry Narkowicz FA: 12 Sep 2022 | 10m, 6 | |||
The Sunny Side Bonanza Buttress | |||||
21 | ★ Bohnanza
On separate cliff. From the top of Rightman Buttress, continue upstream to the large cairn. Just past here and slightly uphill is this left trending bolted line. DBB FA: Norm Selby, 2003 | 13m, 5 | |||
The Sunny Side Fatman Buttress | |||||
20 | ★★★ Thin Fiend
The thin bolted pinnacle FA: Danny Ng | 10m, 4 | |||
18 | You're Fat!
Short bolted route on far R (facing upstream) with 2 bolts, on side-pulls and slopers. Take some midget cams (green dragonfly, or BD .1 X4) for the final moves. DBB | 7m, 2 | |||
The Sunny Side The Big Gully | |||||
24 | ★★ Sarlacc
Starting as for Bautzen, step right off block to traverse along the shark tooth flake and up the right arete. DBB FA: Patrick Munnings & Nick Morgan, 2022 | 16m, 5 | |||
The Sunny Side Mars Wall | |||||
21 | ★★ Chardonnay Man
The pillar left of the main Mars wall. Climbs the right arete and left face to DBB. FA: Bisset & Fox, 1997 | 10m, 3 | |||
21 | ★ Serenity Now!
Down low and upstream of the buttress is a line of U bolts up a tall face and arete. DBB set a long way back and right from top of the route. Take a long cord for toproping. FA: Bisset, 1997 | 16m, 6 | |||
The Sunny Side Gabriel Gully | |||||
22 | ★ Head Full of Rock
Line of bolts up face to crack at the top DBB. A desperate throw to a side pull is the crux of this route. FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2022 | 10m, 6 | |||
22 | ★★ Ego Is Not a Dirty Word
Challenging stemming and laybacking up a short corner leads to a rooflet and big move right at the top DBB FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2022 | 10m, 5 | |||
18 | My Mindless Fan Club
The bolts up the arete leading to a corner DBB. Some good moves at the start. FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2022 | 10m, 5 | |||
19 | ★ Bootlicker
Open corner to thin crack DBB FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2022 | 9m, 5 | |||
22 | ★★ Stone Cold Crazy
The line of bolts furthest right. Starts on block and trends right at the 2nd bolt to the right arete DBB. Some technical slab moves to the top. FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2022 | 15m, 6 | |||
The Sunny Side Gabriel Buttress | |||||
21 | ★ Hand in Glove
Face R of Son of Man with fixed hangers. Pre-clipping the first bolt is recommended. Some medium cams are useful for belay at ledge. DBB FA: Danny Ng | 10m, 3 | |||
The Sunny Side Gabriel Amphitheatre | |||||
26 | ★ Spiritual Warfare
Bolted arete + pinnacle. Stick clip the first bolt, or take some medium/large cams for the off-width at the start. Originally done completely independent of the R corner crack. DBB FA: Gerry Narkowicz | 15m, 5 | |||
The Sunny Side School Girl Pinnacles | |||||
22 | Max Factor
On the top pinnacle. LH line of bolts | 10m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Six-Pack
On the top pinnacle. RH line of bolts. DBB | 10m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ The Delightful Giggle of Schoolgirls
On front (river side) face of the lower pinnacle. | 10m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★★ Marionette
On lower pinnacle. RH line of bolts. Start out right. DBB | 10m, 4 | |||
The Sunny Side Dent De Lion Pinnacles | |||||
24 | ★ The Dum Arm
DBB | 9m, 3 | |||
The Sunny Side Paradise Buttress | |||||
22 | ★ Heavenly Prize
| 8m | |||
23 | Paradise Road
| 8m | |||
The Sunny Side Tea Room Cliffs | |||||
24 | ★★ Boys On the Monkey Bars
| 12m, 3 | |||
The Shady Side The Trap Area | |||||
23 | ★ Dr. Deviant
Upstream pinnacle with horizontal break, above the walkway with a line of U's on the right arete. 23 for climbers 6 foot and up ramps up significantly if shorter FA: Gerry Narkowicz | 10m, 5 | |||
22 | ★ The Trap
Face climb R of the hand crack. Can belay on pillars above hole (#1 or #2 cams for crack), or before jumping fence (please don’t block the path). DBB | 10m, 4 | |||
The Shady Side Fat Bottom Area | |||||
20 | The Secret Road
Shares the same start chimney and first FH as TBTSFBG. The route only becomes visible when you move left on the first big ledge. Step in from the block at the base and bridge up the semi open book corner. A few delicate face moves on small holds. Shares the same top anchor as TBTSFBG. FA: Ian Ferrier & M. Johnston, 2009 | 15m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ The Best Thing Since Fat Bottom Girls
The arete on the left hand end of the buttress with 5 FH. A hop to get established on the face above the undercut, followed by nice climbing up the arete. Access is via the chimmney with one FH to protect it. A good route after the dirty wide crack. DBB at top FA: M. Johnston & Ian Ferrier, 2009 | 15m, 5 | |||
30 | ★★ Sean
The slightly overhanging rounded arete straight off the path on the right hand end of the buttress. A hard start and 2 bolts of somewhat dirty rock leads to a horizontal break. Then sustained, powerful and technical climbing on excellent rock through 3 more bolts to lower offs. FA: Mark Polinksi, 2011 | 18m, 5 | |||
The Shady Side Hot Mess Buttress | |||||
24 | ★★★ Rockafella Skank
The high quality compression line straight up the face of the left most pinnacle. 4 U bolts and lower-offs FA: Patrick Munnings, Feb 2022 | 10m, 4 | |||
30 - 32 | Piece of Cake Project
The hardest open project in the Gorge and possibly the hardest line in the gorge if it goes. Takes the blank left face and sharp arete to DBB | 9m, 3 | |||
26 - 28 | Zombie Project
Right side of arete to DBB | 6m, 3 | |||
28 | ★★ Hot Pockets
The pocketed face and left arete to DBB FA: Kobi Newman, 18 Feb 2022 | 10m, 3 | |||
The Shady Side Double Dozen Area | |||||
26 | ★★ It's in the Veins
Face 5m to the right of NRT FA: Glenn Learmont, 1997 | 11m, 3 | |||
26 | ★★ Future World
The arete right of 'It’s in the Veins.' DBB. FA: N. Selby, 1998 | 10m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ Pipedreams
Seems like some holds have broken off since the original line was established. To keep at the grade...after clipping the second bolt - traverse R along rails to rounded arete. DBB | 10m, 3 | |||
The Shady Side Wandering Face | |||||
24 | ★ The Wanderer
3 bolts in the middle of face. FA: Taima Learmont, 11 Apr 2021 | 7m, 3 | |||
The Shady Side Moorehead Buttress | |||||
29 | ★ Suspended Animation
Bolted arete on LHS of main buttress. FA: M. Polinski, 2012 | 13m | |||
28 | ★★ The Gay Bar
FA: D. McConnell, 2007 | 12m, 4 | |||
21 | ★ Strictly Ballroom
Bolted crack & arete on far RHS of main buttress. FA: M. Fox, 2003 | 10m, 4 | |||
22 | ★★ Road to the Lost City
The line of carrot bolts up the face around and right of main wall. Traverse in from L crack. DBB FA: Danny Ng, 1991 | 10m, 4 | |||
The Shady Side Kohoutek Buttresses | |||||
24 | ★ Lazy Mahout
Bolted arete. DBB | 8m, 3 | |||
The Shady Side Mindless Pinnacle | |||||
19 | ★★ The Great Willy
Excellent face and slappy arete climbing. Climb the bolted face of the obvious double arete/seperate pillar. Start at base of pillar, using chockstone for left foot if needed once climbing. DBB. FA: Nick Hanson & Aidan Cox, 15 Apr 2021 | 9m, 4 | |||
The Shady Side History Maker Area | |||||
23 | ★★ History Maker
Line of bolts on the upstream face of the split pinnacle. Another route from Gerry's 2001 rampage. Many find it hard for the grade FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2001 | 9m, 4 | |||
The Shady Side Revival Area | |||||
21 | ★ Two Ply Hammock
Choose your path up the face and arete's to the DBB. Stick clip the first bolt to avoid falling down the gully. FA: Patrick Munnings, Nov 2021 | 8m | |||
25 | ★ Schizo | 9m | |||
20 | ★★ Revival Arete
| 9m, 3 | |||
23 | ★ Prohibitionist
| 7m, 2 | |||
27 | ★★★ No Dams
| 9m | |||
The Shady Side Six Agile Men Area | |||||
28 | ★ Fox Trot
The bolted open book corner 5m right of Ivy Crack, thin crimps up the dihedral through the roof trending left to mantle, a long reach up and right to the anchors, supposedly 29 if you're too short to reach the hold from the ledge FA: Polinski, 2010 | 15m | |||
19 | ★ Fighting the Authorities
| 8m, 2 | |||
27 | ★ Spunky Monkey
Climbs the arete + face around the corner of Fighting The Authorities without using any of the face holds of FTA FA: 2009 | 7m, 2 | |||
25 | The Magical Mystical Mickey Mouse Tour
FA: Glen Learmont, 1999 | 9m, 2 | |||
First Basin to Duck Reach Stonehenge Recess | |||||
22 | Disproportionate Destruction
| 5m, 2 | |||
First Basin to Duck Reach Prophets Reward Area | |||||
23 | ★ A Prophets Reward
| 9m, 4 | |||
First Basin to Duck Reach Allodynia Buttress Area | |||||
27 | ★ Red Sweater
Steep far left climb slightly up the hill | 11m, 3 | |||
First Basin to Duck Reach Big Norm's Blouse Buttress (and Surrounds) | |||||
24 | ★★ Victim of Circus Pants
Starts on ledge to the left of Big Norm's Blouse about 6m up. Easiest way to access is to climb the very obvious hand crack (about 14) up the ledge.Excellent, bouldery moves traversing almost horizontally leftwards across the compact buttress, then finish up the arete. Four bolts with a gear belay at the bottom (#2 camalot, wires), DBB at the top. | 10m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★ Ground Zero
| 7m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ White Water Arete
FA: Alex Wilson, 2001 | 10m, 3 | |||
24 | Max Steel
Upstream of Finger Frolic. DBB | 8m, 3 | |||
23 | Howard's Shield
Overhanging arete on the main track. DBB | 7m, 3 | |||
First Basin to Duck Reach Flooded Rocks | |||||
23 | ★★ So Long Summerdale
Bolted wall on the left. DBB | 13m, 3 | |||
21 | ★★ Free at Last
Bolted orange wall on the R. DBB | 4 | |||
First Basin to Duck Reach The Gallows | |||||
26 | ★★ Dead on Arrival
The largest roof in the south esk hosts a brutal move turning the lip on jugs, DBB set well back at the top | 12m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★ Sixty Metre Zoom Lens
Line of bolts up the middle of the left face, directly above the water. - First bolt has been damaged by flood water, use caution, either back up with a cam, and thread the bolt or replace the hanger. | 12m, 4 | |||
23 | ★ Fridge Lifting 101
Far RH arete - DBB | 10m, 4 | |||
First Basin to Duck Reach Second Basin Terrace | |||||
22 | ★★ Ecclesiastes
| 8m, 3 | |||
24 | ★★★ Remember Your Creator
| 10m, 4 | |||
Duck Reach Skidrow Buttress | |||||
25 | ★★ Powerhouse Arete
On the extreme left end of the buttress, accessed by a short scramble up the gully. DBB FA: John Fisher, 1995 | 12m, 5 | |||
23 | Made in China
Contrived. Up bolted face/arete to R of Sitting Bull, attempting not to bridge all the way to the last move. DBB | 10m, 3 | |||
Duck Reach Vamp Buttress | |||||
28 | ★★ Insh Allah
Climb the blunt arete left of Vamp past 4 FH to a DBB | 15m | |||
28 | ★★★ The Forgotten Sword
The direct start to Road to War up the arete. A great arete climb with three distinct boulder problem cruxes. FA: I. Lethborg, Apr 2020 | 28m, 12 | |||
Road to War Direct
Open project? Line of FH’s R of Forgotten Sword | |||||
Duck Reach Four Thumbs Faces | |||||
21 | ★ Ostrich Arete
On far LHS of top left cliff, with overhanging block up high. Single bolt anchor | 5 | |||
22 | Jumping Jack Flash
Bolted face and arete on RHS of top left cliff. No anchor. | 5 | |||
21 | ★ Douggy’s Downfall
Traverse R from previous route to arete and up. FA: Gerry Narkowicz | 5 | |||
Duck Reach Petrebond Area | |||||
24 | Under Cover
Upstream again, near river level. The tall bolted face and arete with a ledge at half height. DBB | 6 | |||
Duck Reach Kiwi Fruit Jam Gully | |||||
23 | ★★★ Heart of Gold
The brilliant double arete on the left end of the yellow face. DBB FA: Gerry Narkowicz | 12m, 6 | |||
22 | ★ Goldfinger
Bridge/layaway up the yellow face/arete using the R block. At the horizontal rail (after clipping the 3rd bolt) - step out L and up the main wall. Avoid veering into the grovel chimney higher up for full value. Access via rap or a scramble down upstream terraces. DBB. FA: Nick Morgan, Oct 2021 | 15m, 5 | |||
Trevallyn Reserve/Hoo Hoo Hut areas Old Timers Buttresses | |||||
21 | ★ Over the Top with Jim
| 8m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★ Up The Wall With Dennis
RH arete on pinnacle upstream of descent gully. FA: DeCesare/ Kearnes, 2008 | 8m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★ Possumlea
Left blunt arete (starting slightly up R face) on same pinnacle as Mr Natural. Stick clip first bolt, and avoid stepping R near the top. | 9m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Not Just a Pretty Face
Easy angled face at the far downstream end of buttress. DBB FA: D. Kearnes | 9m | |||
Trevallyn Reserve/Hoo Hoo Hut areas Rabbit Trap Buttress | |||||
24 | ★★★ Halcyon Daze
Brilliant orange corner. Situated on isolated pinnacle below and downstream of Pissing on Trees buttress but accessed easier via Rabbit Trap. DBB | 12m, 6 | |||
21 | ★★ Pets Prefer Purple
Arete into slab. One of the better sport routes in the gorge. DBB | 12m, 5 | |||
Trevallyn Reserve/Hoo Hoo Hut areas K. Archer Buttress | |||||
24 | ★★ Sam I Am
The bolted pinnacle upstream and below Pissing on Trees Buttress. DBB | 13m, 6 |