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Routes in Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave

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Showing all 33 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
16 Russell the Love Mussel

The first crack you come to.

FA: Chris Bentham, 2008

Trad 10m
17 Left Hand Slab

Hex bolts to lower off outside cave.

FA: Anthony Alexander

Sport 13m, 5
22 Scallops

Up the nice orange/red rock moving leftward at the 3rd bolt. Then cast off left from good block to slopey crimpers and reachy moves, to get across to 4th bolt. Trend up and left to get stood up via little footers. Great technical climbing, that is well protected.

FA: Paul Rivere

Sport 10m, 5
21 Spider PIG

First line of bolts inside the cave. Climb to the ledge then lean back to the small roof and follow right to anchors. Alt start also known as Spider Pig

FA: Dave Lofthouse

Set: Dave Lofthouse

Sport 10m, 5
23 Beautiful Box

Follows the seam near the start of the cave on slopey goodness to ledge then traverse roof to Lofty's (spider pig's) anchors.

FA: anthony alexander

Sport 10m
22 Salt and Pepper Squid

Up the first 2 bolts of Calamari to big break, then left along break to finish up Beautiful Box.

FA: Tm Haasnoot

Sport 12m
29 Technical Tentacles

Short, powerful, technical! Bust through the crux of calamari then head left on bad holds. Wrestle the bulge and traverse to finish at the anchors of Spider Pig. Bonus points if you find the bat-hang rest.

FA: Pete Tosen

Sport 15m
25 Calamari

Straight up wall and through roof on knob hold, then out right to finish on single ring.

FA: Tim Haasnoot

Sport 8m, 5
Steep Project

A direct start to Omega Free with a hard compression boulder and a blank spot..

SportProject
26 Omega Free

Tough line finishing on the lip of the first cave. Up past 3 bolts then move out left and then straight out roof.

FA: Jason Piper

Sport 14m
26 Battered Mussels

Start on "Omega Free" but go straight up after 3rd bolt to lower off "Fishermans Basket"

FA: Tim Haasnoot

Sport 12m, 6
26 Crab Stick

Start 2m right of Omega free, straight up to Fisherman Basket anchours.

FA: Jason Piper

Sport 12m
22 Cast Off

Start up Omega Free and traverse through Ados route and fishermans basket to anchors of Tartar.

Sport 10m
25 Barry the Fish

Start at crab stick then move right at 2nd bolt and finish at fishermans basket anchors.

FA: Adrian Child, 2010

Sport 12m
23 Fishermans basket

Up slopes to undercling, then hard move to gain upper section of cave. Move left on slopey ledge to exciting sitting finish.Starts just after the first pinch gap on the low bolt. Back jump to clean.

Sport 16m, 7
22 Tartar

Climb the first four bolts on fishermans basket through short roof then right to anchors.

Sport 8m, 4
24 Tartare

FA: JP & TH

Sport 8m
21 Lobster Rock

Start at fishermans basket up to roof then traverse under roof left to right. One of the easier routes of the cliff.

FA: Paul Riviere, 2008

Sport 20m
29 Project Tim

The line moving slightly right with big move to bird poo slopey ledge.

SportProject 12m, 5
19 Pinchy the Lobster

Easily up wall to tough move below roof.

FA: Lauren Johnson

Sport 6m, 4
18 Frying Nemo

Start as you would for 'Pinchy the Lobster' first 3 bolts then head right on the last 2 carrots of 'Second Cave Carrots'

FA: Eric c

Sport 7m, 5
19 Second Cave Carrots

Follow (6) carrots through slopey goodness

Sport 7m, 6
22 Pockets of Blood

Slopey underclinging. Same start as 'Lobster' for the first 2 bolts then trend left onto 3 bolts to finish at 'Second Cave Carrots' anchors.

FA: Anthony Alexander

Sport 8m
21 Lobster

Original line bolted ground up, easier line moving slightly right to lower off under roof.

FA: Anthony Alexander, 2007

Sport 8m, 6
23 Roast Lobster

Up 'Lobster', Diagonally right then through roof flake to lower off.

FA: Jason Piper

Sport 12m
28 Roast Lobster Mornay

Out roast lobster roof then continue to top out!

FA: Jason Piper, 2010

Sport 24m
24 Rock Lobster

Traverse the entire wall at roof level right to left starting next to block at right end of cave.

Set: paul

FA: Paul Riviere, 2008

Sport 20m, 12
30 The Red Headed Dragon

An epic line that follows The Red into Roast Lobster Mornay all the way to the top of the cave.

FA: Jason Piper, 2012

Sport 20m
27 The Red

Start on the face left of the block. Out roof then traverse left to anchors on Roast Lobster.

FA: Jason Piper

Sport 11m, 8
17 Buckets of Lard

First climb outside of the cave on the right side. Long way to the first bolt, probably best to stick-clip

FA: VW

Sport 14m, 2
26 Catch of the day

Start ontop of block at right end of cave, out past 4 bolts the hard move out right over lip to lower off at top.

FA: Tim Haasnoot

Sport 15m
21 Dave's Climb

Second climb out from the cave on the right side. 3 bolts to double rings at the top

FA: DF

Sport 10m, 3
17 Moss City

At the R end of the slabs above the beach known as Little Lobster, 150m N of Lobster Beach. Was a little slick on the FFTRA! Approx 30-50m N of the more recently established Lobster Cave routes.

FA: FTRA Will Monks & Peter Monks, 1996

Top rope 18m

Showing all 33 routes.

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