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Description

Good clean rock on The Spearhead. It’s the dominant split boulder seen across the water hole from the picnic area. There is a triangle of three bolts at the top. The top can be scrambled from behind.

Approach

To get to it, simply walk clockwise around the water hole.

Ethic inherited from Maidenwell

The style at Maidenwell to date has been traditional climbing. Bolt placements are belay anchors only, and these are stainless expansion bolts with fixed hangers. There is some potential for bolting the listed routes and new routes. I hope that sanity and logic prevail in endeavours of this kind. Bear in mind that overt bolting may impact on access here. Time will tell. Always give due regard to rock fall and work to reduce its incidence, as there may still be some loose rock on the listed climbs. The waterhole and picnic area have regular visitors on weekends, so be conscious of anyone in your climbing vicinity. Once the obvious loose rock is removed, the surface is very reliable.

Routes

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Grade Route

The obvious chimney on Spearhead boulder. Straight up the body crack, jamming yourself in nice and tight. Lovely juvley.

FA: Terry Svingen, 2003

Delicate and cybery. Zigzag up, keeping to the face.

Set by Luke Hyam, 2003

Flippery good fun. Pull the blocks and proceed up the arete.

Set by Debbie Hyam, 2003

Climb through overhanging blocks, then trend right following diagonal flake, before tricky mantle move to gain arete ledge. Finish up arete. No gear in the second half of the route.

Alteratively, stem over to chimney, then to top. Watch your rope on the arete.

Set by Luke Hyam, 2003

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Spearhead.