Maiden Wing All Trad climbing12 routes in area
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Maiden Wing is the length of rock that is clearly seen across the water hole from the picnic area. It is topped by a large jumble of blocks with a pronounced overhang. The routes here are slabs, cracks and corners with pleasing variations. Maiden Wing is separated by the waters edge so the base is approached in two ways.
To get to the first selection of climbs make your way around the waterhole in a clockwise fashion, the rock will soon appear before you.
To access the base of the second selection of routes you continue on to the top of the crag and then down the other side.
The belay ledge and bolt belay for The Dark Side and She Oak can be scrambled from this side by using an old chain on a dodgy bolt placed by swimmers. This ledge is called Lizard Rock.Beetle Buster. Diamond Dave, and Gwylow also have a bolt belay. This can be scrambled from their right.
Ethic inherited from Maidenwell
The style at Maidenwell to date has been traditional climbing. Bolt placements are belay anchors only, and these are stainless expansion bolts with fixed hangers. There is some potential for bolting the listed routes and new routes. I hope that sanity and logic prevail in endeavours of this kind. Bear in mind that overt bolting may impact on access here. Time will tell. Always give due regard to rock fall and work to reduce its incidence, as there may still be some loose rock on the listed climbs. The waterhole and picnic area have regular visitors on weekends, so be conscious of anyone in your climbing vicinity. Once the obvious loose rock is removed, the surface is very reliable.
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