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Description

Maiden Wing is the length of rock that is clearly seen across the water hole from the picnic area. It is topped by a large jumble of blocks with a pronounced overhang. The routes here are slabs, cracks and corners with pleasing variations. Maiden Wing is separated by the waters edge so the base is approached in two ways.

Approach

To get to the first selection of climbs make your way around the waterhole in a clockwise fashion, the rock will soon appear before you.

To access the base of the second selection of routes you continue on to the top of the crag and then down the other side.

The belay ledge and bolt belay for The Dark Side and She Oak can be scrambled from this side by using an old chain on a dodgy bolt placed by swimmers. This ledge is called Lizard Rock.Beetle Buster. Diamond Dave, and Gwylow also have a bolt belay. This can be scrambled from their right.

Ethic inherited from Maidenwell

The style at Maidenwell to date has been traditional climbing. Bolt placements are belay anchors only, and these are stainless expansion bolts with fixed hangers. There is some potential for bolting the listed routes and new routes. I hope that sanity and logic prevail in endeavours of this kind. Bear in mind that overt bolting may impact on access here. Time will tell. Always give due regard to rock fall and work to reduce its incidence, as there may still be some loose rock on the listed climbs. The waterhole and picnic area have regular visitors on weekends, so be conscious of anyone in your climbing vicinity. Once the obvious loose rock is removed, the surface is very reliable.

Routes

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Grade Route

A line chosen by a groovy Canadian girl. Up the big chunky corner, then following the ridge of rock. Proceed over the blocks to top out. Moderate protection.

FA: Luke Hyam, Hayley Ford & Debbie Hyam, 2003

An entertaining arete with a nice finish. Starts 3m right of TC. Pull the recess, follow the arete, enter the slab, then breach the small overhang and blocks. Poor protection.

FA: Luke Hyam, Hayley Ford & Debbie Hyam, 2003

A sustained slab with a recessed start. Start by lining up the centre of the slab right of TC. Pull the recess, then proceed directly up the centre of the slab to breach the overhang at its highest point.

Set by Luke Hyam, 2003

A blocky face topped with a groovy slab. Up the blocky face to vegetated ledge. Move right on ledge almost to corner, then crank up the slab following either of the diagonal cracks. Moderate protection.

FA: Terry Svingen & Simon Inglis, 2003

A cruisy layed-back corner. Start at the big corner. Layback the corner, then proceed up the slab ramp, tending left. Moderate protection.

FA: Luke Hyam & Debbie Hyam, 2003

Climb up layback corner of AGS until you find that you can't go further because it's full of dirt or if it's been cleaned escape about halfway up the layback by stepping right to the smooth face with blocky cracks above. Make your way up until you get to the tree in the crack and move right to corner. Follow corner to top, tree belay. Moderate protection.

FA: Daniel Rantala, 22 Apr 2016

A full height of Maiden Wing. Starts well right of AGS, below the small tree on the cliff face. Move up to the small overhang, traverse right beneath the tree then up the small overhang and onto the slab. Head straight up to the large overhang and pull through the blocks at its right to top out.

Set by Luke Hyam, 2003

A variety here makes for great climbing. My favourite climb at Maidenwell. Starts at beginning of the ledge that is above the water. Mantle the large-flake/small-ledge, reach the jug at right then proceed up the crack to the belay ledge. A bolt belay is at the back of the ledge. No protection for the cruxy start, then good protection to finish.

FA: Luke Hyam & Debbie Hyam, 2003

Parallel cracks. Make your way out onto the ledge above the water and line up the parallel cracks, start at their right. Execute a few moves, positioning left, then head directly up the parallel cracks. A bolt belay is at the back of the ledge. Good protection.

FA: Luke Hyam & Debbie Hyam, 2003

Bring on the bulge. Start the the she oak tree and head up the little corner, go left past the old chain then straight up to breach the bulge.

Set by Luke Hyam, 2003

Do the diamond. Starts on top of the protruding triangular block. Head straight up through the diamond shape in the cracks.

Set by Luke Hyam, 2003

Engrossing little edges. A contrived line, situated alongside Diamond Dave. Just keep right of the diamond shape in the cracks and head directly up the tiny edges.

Set by Luke Hyam, 2003

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