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Bob's Hollow

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 25- 60 minutes
  • Photos: 18
  • Ascents: 1,383

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Summary

Steep Limestone next to the ocean. Spectacular views and probably the best limestone currently available in WA.

Description

A sports crag on steep to overhung limestone, with mostly solid stalactites and stalagmites 100m from the Indian Ocean. The rock is fantastic although there are some sandy sections and the upper parts of some climbs are quite sharp.

Access issues

The crag is in the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park. Whilst park rangers seem to be quite unsure if climbing is allowed without a permit, it may be wise to contact the DPAW office in Busselton. This is a national park so the rules are no fires, no camping and no dogs. The climbing of this crag is tolerated but not sanctioned so it’s vital that all climbers do the right thing: take out what you take in; stick to the paths (most are marked with rocks) and don’t make new paths (this helps the plants to survive and they give the crag some shade too). There are no toilets so if you need to go and want to do the right thing... 1) go at least 25m from common areas; 2) dig a hole and bury your deposit and toilet paper.

Approach

2WD (RECOMMENED): 1st option: On Contos Rd park at the Cape to Cape walking track. Take this track northwards for roughly 45 minutes. It will follow the ridge line until it descends to the junction at the base of the cliffs previously mentioned. Turn left when you reach the track junction just below the clifftop and walk south along a track for a one minute.

2nd Option: Follow Caves Rd south and turn onto Contos Rd. Follow this till you reach Contos Spring. Park here and walk northwards along the beach for around 45 minutes. Once you reach the second rocky outcrops entering the ocean, take the track that heads inland towards a large cave. Once at the cave/ cliff face turn right and follow this to a junction. Take the right option which remains at the base of the cliffs and walk for under 5 minutes. When you reach the bolts in the cliff you are there! Try to use existing tracks to save the vegetation being taken over by the dunes. This is the 2nd option because people very often can't find the track from the beach to the crag. This is creating lots of makeshift paths and damaging the vegetation.

3rd Option: Park at Redgate beach and follow the Cape to Cape Track southwards. It's about the same walk in as above but offers shade and the start is far closer to Margaret Riverr than the Contos Rd option (about 20kms less driving). Starting at Redgate carpark, head south to cross the beach and follow the Cape to Cape Track.

4WD (REALLY REALLY NOT RECOMMENDED): Travel south on Caves Rd for 2.5 km from the Caves Rd/ Redgate Rd junction. Take the 4WD track on your right. The track has a national park sign next to it (the other track south of this one is much rougher). Travel along the track taking your 2nd left. Prepare for scratchy bushes until you get to a t-junction. Turn right then immediately left and then prepare for more rocks. The crag awaits at the end of this rocky track. From the carpark, follow the walking track to the base of the cliffs, take a left and keep following the track southwards until you reach the crag. THE TRACK IS VERY SCRATCHY; SAY GOODBYE TO YOUR SHINY PAINT JOB. IT’S ALSO VERY ROCKY AND GETS ROCKIER THE FURTHER YOU GO. EVEN A RAISED 4WD WILL STRUGGLE NOT TO CLIP SOME OF THE LARGE PROTRUDING ROCKS ON THE ROAD. LINE CHOICE IS CRITICAL IN PLACES. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.

Where to stay

Contos Campground is the closest legitimate choice and links up to the access track - the Cape to Cape Track. Some people camp in the cave to the north of Bob's Hollow although this is strictly prohibited. Contos Campground Bookings: https://tinyurl.com/y8y29vb3 The is also plenty of other accommodation in the region with Margaret River close by. A new camp ground has opened up nearby (Jarrahdene), just off Caves Road at an old saw mill. https://tinyurl.com/yathv65v

Ethic

Bob's Hollow is a sports crag with only a handful of routes requiring trad gear. Many routes were rebolted in 2012 & 2013. Chalk seems to be widely used.

History

View historical timeline

Earliest climb seems to be from 1994.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Start 4m left of Constructive Vandalism on sequency pockets. Clim over bulge with long moves and traverse right to join anchors of Constructive Vandalism

Clip first high bolt and continue up jugs, some of which have big moves in between. 5BR & DBB

Climb line of ringbolts immediately right of Constructive Vandalism. Thought provoking moves halfway up will result in glory or failure. 5BR & DBB. A great climb to warm up on.

Start 2m right of Puk Puk Sen. Climb past cave into juggy finish.

Left of the fin as you are facing wall, then steep crux ending. Originally Fin, graded 17, but has now been extended into the steep stuff and renamed as Thyeses Feast.

Goes up right of the large fin feature following a line of bolts. One of the longer climbs of the crag and great for working your stamina. 7BR & DBB

Start 2m right of Fin Right. Long sustained climbing will get you to a cave. Deduct one style point if you get inside and rest. Either continue up small holds on left, or dyno to finishing jugs. 7BR & DBB

Head up pillar right of Dependence Day to reach steep ground. Continue up small pockets to a sustained and pumpy finale. The proudest line at Bob's Hollow and many peoples first 25. 6BR & DBB

Run up the pillar and continue directly up. Figure out the pocketed section and arrive at cave. Continue out of cave to a hard-to-clip anchor. 7BR & DBB. Shares the first 2 bolts with Hollow Promises.

Start right of pillar on jugs. A sling can be used at top of pillar to protect moves to first bolt. Traverse right to difficult clip, then continue up between stalagtites to anchors. Find those knee-bars!

An intimidating line starting 10m right of ‘Altered States’ on right side of cave. Up massive pillar to thread, through a series of stalactites and overhang to a crows nest and continue to lower off at top of cliff. 1 fixed thread and 7BR to DBB. Use 60cm sling on first bolt to reduce rope drag.

FA: J. Hollongworth, Feb 2015

Starts a few meters right of The Power of Negative Thinking. 5BR and DBB

Up left side of pillar on jugs to a massive 'do or die' finish. 4BR & DBB

Start on left trending flack system 5m right of Firepower. Climb up jugs to first bolt. With lots of style and power, throw yourself up to the headwall and continue up to anchors. 6BR & DBB

Links the start of Spatula man into Toy shopping via some large moves on stonka holds. Has one independent bolt. Finish at Toy Shopping Anchors. 7BR & DBB

Short and technical climbing on small holds. 4BR & DBB

Start right of ‘Spatular Man’ on the ledge 3m above however belay from the ground. Stay left of the bolts. Some reachy moves and hold searching required. 5BR & DBB

FA: J. Hollingworth & O. Morell, Jan 2014

Sramble onto the ledge and climb the easy slab. 4BR & DBB. Fixed carabiners at top makes this a great climb for those just starting to lead.

FA: rob crowder, 2014

Starts just right of Export Bogans. High first bolt however the first bolt of Export Bogans can be used, and is recommended. Fixed carabiners at top makes it ideal for those just starting to lead.. 5RB & DBB

FA: rob crowder, 2014

Start at the far left of the sandy cave containing Mixed Grill. Steep, juggy and an uber classic crux. Extra hardman points for the onsight. 5BR & DBB

FA: Kate Swain & N. Gledhill, 2007

Pitch 1 (20) - Start in left side of the cave and climb up large holds over stalagmites and traverse leftwards and over over roof with difficulty to hanging belay. 7BR & DBB.

Pitch 2 (22) - Continue left over sharp rock and strenuous climbing to anchor. Rap off anchor. 60m rope easily brings you to the ground. 7BR & DBB

Can be done as one long pitch with a 70m rope.

FA: Regan Witham, 1994

Shares first 2 bolts of Sunset Cruise, then tends left up obvious ramp. 7BR & DBB

FA: George Firth & Mick Dempsey, 2008

First route at the crag. Belay comprises 1 BR and natural gear

A crag classic and a WA test piece for the grade. Start up line of bolts between large feature with small holds.A technical start and a leftward traverse precedes a glorious juggy finish. Well protected. 8BR & DBB

One for the bone crushers. Not sure if it's been done since a hold was broken off many moons ago. Great looking line on great rock!

FA: Pat Turner

Rope slings and 3 bolts. First FH is at exit from last cave. 3rd bolt (also FH) is on a traverse left towards the anchors of Shaved Cat, about half way along and quite low. Needs new slings and to be re bolted, probably not worth the effort.

FA: Ross Weiter, 1998

Terrible bolt placement makes this questionable for top rope.

Poor bolt placement makes this another questionable climb although extendable draw on 2nd and 3rd fixes rope drag issue. Ignore bolt to the far left near start; it's used for the route to the left. A little runout from last bolt to anchor but fall is fine. Nice 3D climbing inbetween stalactites. 60m rope is fine so not sure about the 40m height.

This line stands out like dogs balls! A fun direct route. Start as for Lovers Nuts, use the first 2 bolts, then continue direct up the stalactite towards the Lovers Nuts anchors. Easy to protect with slinging/threads and no. 2 Cam in a slot on the upper wall. Or give it a run on top-rope after climbing Lovers Nuts if you have no trad gear with you.

FA: lance gelden, Jan 2019

A popular route for those looking for a more moderate grade. Gets sharp at the top. Crux is well protected and a great climb for those that are just starting at the pointy end of the rope.

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