Copper Rocks




Amazing area by the ocean!

PDF version of Copper Rocks. Uploaded on 2020-01-20 13:10:14.


Copper Rocks is one of the most easily accessible bouldering areas in the South West with spectacular views by Castle Bay.

The names of the problems are taken from the original Topo taken from Glen Ludlam's smugmug. The lines associated with the names and grades are by no means accurate. Please use them as a guide.

Seaside boulders left right and center!


Park at Castle Rock carpark (Castle Rock Rd), walk 5 min along the track that leads North (opposite to Castle Rock) and you'll see the obvious cluster of rocks on your right.

GPS: -33.578597, 115.095007


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Trackside Area
Chateau Bloc Boulder


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Grade Route

Amazing problem starting on large rail and work your way up the dong

FA: Claire Girdlestone

Start as for 'Finding Max', but eliminate the holds out right and instead take the line directly up the seam. Nails hard.

SDS on good hold, long move up to gain the crimp-plate. Climb the left hand side of the boulder with awesome stretched out compression moves. Stick left for the send. Easier the taller you are. Andy Lampard -

FA: Andy Lampard, 2015

Start as 'Finding Max', but once you gain the right hand in the sharp jug up high drop down to finish as 'Lock It Down' instead of following the crack on the left.

SDS on the same holds as Finding Max and head straight up the middle of the boulder. Using the holds at the start of Kimbo will earn you a downgrade.

FA: Jason Girdlestone

SDS on the bottom right hand corner of the boulder, up the right and into the scoop - committing top out.

FA: Glen Ludlam

Scoot all the way down to the massive hueco, Start with kneebar and hands on the hueco, up to the jug then top out on crimps. First move is hard, no room for a pad.

start on low SDS dodgy flake. (Don't break this!) pop up to gain the diagonal feature and follow up right to top out.

FA: lance gelden, May 2018

Sit start with right hand undercling. Jam a left heel on the obvious flake and make a hard move to a shit sloper. It exists...

FA: Andy Lampard

Name unknown. Sit start low on the crimps as for 'Heuco at Home', then trend left through crimps. Long move up and left then drop knee like you're Ondra.

FA: Andy Lampard

SDS low on crimps, climb up to Hueco flake and top out on The Bear. Eliminating the flake will get you a V7

FA: Kim Van Amerongen

A contrived eliminate with one of the sweetest sequences ever. Really awesome if done with the mindset of climbing the eliminate. Sit start left hand on the far left edge, right hand in the slot near the massive starting rail of The Bear. Trend left using the smaller side-pulls and powerful right heel hooks on the jugs of The Bear /Variant. Flows like sick.

FA: Andy Lampard

Great eliminate problem starting jugs, up left to top, avoiding good holds up to the right. Andy Lampard -

FA: Andy Lampard

SDS on good jugs, climb up to good seam then traverse left to crux and juggy top out.

FA: Andy Lampard

Continue left from Dunsborough Breakery into The Bear.

FA: Kim Van Amerongen

Follow crack up and top

Start really low feet and Microcrimps on the face (Sharp left and slopeyish right) Bust up right to the good crimp rail and prepare for the cut loose. Traverse left on crimps. Hard!

SDS Letterbox hold, (using top right pinch of letterbox drops a grade) Move left onto huge sloper and continue left along low crimp rail. Avoid Jugs and pinches of hashtag crimes.

Sit start on the obvious slash at the bottom left corner and head straight up and left, avoiding the scoops of Pebbles. There are a few ways of doing it.

Start at left scoop, move up through a series of scoops and top out at the peak of the boulder.

Start at left scoop and move right through series of scoopers before top out. Watch out for the swooping sparrows!

Starting with feet up high, pull off slopey undercling / side pull and throw over lip to scoop and choose your own adventure to top out

Start on slopey side pulls with feet low and bust out to lip and top out. Starting with feet high earns you Pebbles Variant.

FA: Andy Lampard

Start low on the slopers; shoulder up to Roof and finish as for Roof. Hard...but not that inspiring to look at.

Set by Andy Lampard

Start super low on obvious juggy holds and traverse the low lip left and finish as for Roof.

Eliminate. Start down and left of Man Status start with good left crimp edge, then up on small crimps and thumb catches. Eliminate the start hold and the horizontal jugs of Man Status. Rad Sequence. Hard!

Direct line from juggy rail to top

Start on juggy rail (or all the way from the left for to make it harder) and head right out and out of cave to top out on jugs

FA: Jason Girdlestone

Traverse along the edge on slopers

FA: Glen Ludlam

Start as 'Man Status Link Up' and link into 'Dyno Friend'/'Dyno Friend Variant'. For added spice avoid the jugs on the left and go from the crimps directly around the underside of the boulder to gain the break. Turns the Dyno into an epic!

Sweet dyno from the break to sloper before top

Bigger dyno from break to better edge on right before top out

Easier variant if you head direct to scoop and top out left.

Sit start on slopey crimps and bump up to slopey dishes before heading up to scoop and top out, avoiding the left exit.

Sit start on the triangle and up using the next big triangle and crimps on the right.

Sit start at the diamond as for Single Cone, then trend right on slopey holds to finish on jugs (can even extend and finish on 2 Scoops Licourice Icecream for extra pump). Cool sequence.

Cool little balancy problem. Can sit start on left jugs and traverse through mega scoop and top out up the middle

Run up straight into the middle and jump up direct for the lip. Don't slip!

Sit start on the slopey ball with feet out right then mantle into the scoop and then top out as 2 Scoops. Sneaky...

Classic from Andy Lampard. Start lying down on left hand jug and right hand sharp undercling and double toehooks in the crack. Work your way up to the jug then trend left with crimps towards the left corner and top. Core intensive!

FA: Andy Lampard

SDS on the far right - compressing the boulder - move up to the slopey scoops into the roof and out the jug. Straight up from there!

Start as for The Cougar and take a far right exit from the jug instead of the 'Cougar Right' exit - move under the fin and then top out in between the fin and the glass cage boulder using sneaky knee bars. Sorta interesting sequence... but ultimately just awkward and contrived.

SDS right at the back of the roof (If you think you are in the right spot keep crawling under), compress the fridge feature for 2m then out to a slopey top out. Contrived line - climbed as a compression, using the 'crack only' is considered it's own line out the cave.

FA: Kim Van Amerongen

Start as for 'A Glass Cage of Emotion' then link in to exit back and left as for 'The Cougar'. Pumpy and resistant.

Instead of starting squeezing the boulder start as far under as you can (ends up just next to the start of A Glass Cage of Emotion) and traverse into the sit and you're away. Adds extra pump - maybe adds a grade to each of the potential exits.

Amazing problem sit starting squeezing the aretes and wrestle your way up and across right through pockets and jugs to top. Toping out straight up will earn you a V4

Do not top out for '2 Scoops of Booty Flakes,' but instead continue traversing through break via barn door move of death.. Ensure this is within your grade unless you have a spotter and pads

FA: Elliot Vercoe

SDS obvious jug, up slopers and crimp to top out. Andy Lampard, name? Approximate grade v5?

Much harder eliminate by removing crimp and using slopers only.

Sit start and up. Juggy

Sit start with jam crack. Up to the sloping lip and traverse as far right as you please then top out.

Tad contrived line. Start left with one hand up on crimp and hand/heel on scoop underneath. Keep foot contact under roof until you hit the top out crimps, then heel up and top out.

Improbably and strangely fun. Sit start (no stacking pads!)with both hands on the awful slopers and exit straight. There is a trick.

Sit start (No stacking!) with one hand on the arete and one hand on the slopey deliciousness, bump your way up the arete and drive by to jugs. No I'm not kidding. No dabbing kiddos. Again, theres a trick.

Start as "2 Scoops Licourice Icecream" and traverse right. Go around the fin/flake and top out. Don't use the "Cougar" boulder for additional hand/feet holds.

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