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One For The Road

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Access issues inherited from Wilyabrup

Access is through private property firebreak/trail. Please don't litter. There is a long drop toilet in the National Park with an amazing view. National Park so no fires no camping and no dogs. Please ensure all litter is removed and climbers are seen to be doing the right thing.

Ethic inherited from Wilyabrup

The local climbing association has published some Ethics\Guidelines which apply. http://www.climberswa.asn.au/cawa/cawa-code-of-bolting-and-new-route-development/

Routes

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Grade Route

Same route as one for the road. But when you get to the overhang escape off to the right to the ledge.

Start from the platform and climb up the major crag of the wall. The crux is at the roof with good gear and great holds. Build the anchor over the big boulder with enough rope or some cams, nuts or hexes under the two boulders on top with you sitting snug between them.

FA: MacArthur, 1978

Climb the line of bolts left of One for the Road.

Start as for Thunder Thighs / Sinuosity for 5m. Then traverse left 5m in large horizontal break, clipping second bolt of Dolphin Smiles. Finish up last 3 bolts of Fishing with Dynamite.

FA: rob hayns

After the 3rd bolt, head right towards the darker rock and crack.

Start 2m L of Dolphin Smiles and follow 6 RBs to the top. Slightly overhanging, pumpy and interesting all the way. A #0.5 Camalot is optional between first and second bolt with the other option being a guaranteed ground fall. Be warned, this in not a sports route. Easy to mistake for Golden Buttress if using old guidebook.

FA: Ross Weiter, Peter Thomas & Angela Separovic, Feb 2011

Direct version goes straight up bellow first bolt. Medium nuts and cams required for protection.

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