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The king line of this cliff and also the best.

Find the I've Heard it all Before rap anchors under a small bush near a cairn. -43.2063 147.8661

The rap in is the first crux, particularly the bottom pitches. Pre-equip the crux pitch to keep rope out of the drink when pulled.

  1. 10m 14 From the ledge on the lip of the cave move easily up to a nice stance on the pocketed wall. Best to skip this one.

  2. 35m 24 Money pitch. Steep and sustained over the 3 overlaps. Pre-equip badly placed 2nd bolt with long draw for drag and self preservation.

  3. 40m 22 Traverse L past and up into the corner. Up this, then back R through and around roof. Continue up slabs above to the chill out ledge.

  4. 20m 20 Plug in a medium cam then up the wall to a reach crux at top.

  5. 30m 23 Head up and right through the steep juggy wall above, passing the Pocket of Love at the top.

  6. 25m 22 Move R around the arête to crack, then then up the thin layback crack above.

  7. 20m 21 Continue up the corner above. Some cams required. Used to be 19 but some holds broken?

  8. 25m 17 Step R into the corner and then traverse diagonally R to the big ledge.

  9. 10m 8 Scramble easily out as for IHIAB.

Suggested gear list: Double ropes and helmets, 10 short quickdraws and 5 long quickdraws, Camalots: 1 each of #.4 #.5 #.75 #1 #2. Note: this gear list does not allow for rappelling the route.

FA: Simon Young Gary Phillips, 2008

The long line down the right hand side of the cliff with a difficult approach. Starts 3m above the swirling sea kelp.


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