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Hidden Face

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Description

A newly develop wall with similar rock to the paradiso. All climbs are off a massive level rock platform accessed from a rap in 3 pitch climb out.

Access issues inherited from Tasmania

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Approach

Walk past the Mount Brown trig - head in the direction of Tasman Island, when you start seeing the cairns follow them down a rough but well cut trail. The track splits 20m from the cliff edge - left goes to No Contest, right goes to Psycho-Man.

Descent notes

The platform is big, but completely cut off by the sea, so either leave a fixed line or commit to some strong climbing to get home. A 100 m static just reaches the bottom with a re-belay on the top Pitch anchor. If you anchor to the top single bolt and rebelay on each anchor you will be 6 m short. The haul line on Psycho man is clear of the climbing route

Ethic inherited from Tasman Peninsula

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (tasmanpeninsula@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Engaging, technical, good quality climbing in a wild location. Fully bolted.

  1. 15m 12 Start as for Psycho Man for 3 bolts, then head left across large ledge to DBB.

  2. 30m 23 Crux pitch. Clip bolt and downclimb from ledge to traverse left across the top of sea cave. Head up to roof, then left under this to ledge and double bolt belay.

  3. 20m 23 Hard start moving right into crack system, then follow this to next ledge.

  4. 20m 22 Follow line of bolts up slab, move left into corner system finishing at ledge.

  5. 20m 18 Step right and finish up the final pitch of Psycho Man

FA: Garry & Kim, 2016

The rap route and also the easiest way to escape the Hidden Face. A new wave classic and worth the walk just for the experience of the second pitch alone. Fully bolted.

  1. 35m 22 From single bolt belay, follow line of bolts up easy ground, finishing with a couple of big moves to big holds just below the anchor. DBB.

  2. 40m 21 Sustained, engaging climbing. Cross the slab bearing left into flake system, then up major corner. Move left around steep bulge to arete and up to DBB. Spaced bolts can be supplemented with small cams (BD 0.3, 0.4) and wires if desired.

  3. 20m 18 Follow corner with a couple of big moves to finish.

FA: Gerry & Gary, 2012

An moderate adventure route and the line of least resistance up the Hidden Face. The climb follows a series of crack systems to the top of the cliff.

  1. 20m (17). Start as for Psychoman then verge right after 5 metres until at base of steep corner (crux). Up this (grade 17) or step left around arete and up more easily. Belay here, or continue up crack and link with pitch 2.

  2. 20m (13) Continue up the easy corner until reaching a crack that peters out before a blank slab. Belay from a stance in the crack.

  3. 20m (16) Up slab (runout) and right until a short finger crack takes gear, then over bulge and belay on top of a pedestal at base of headwall.

  4. 20m (15) Traverse left and over into overhanging corner system. Over bulge and easily up corner to belay.

  5. 20m (15) Up middle of face, using a series of blocks and flakes to the summit. First ascent climbed into the bushes and belayed from a tree near the descent abseil bolt. This pitch has dubious rock quality.

Pitch lengths are estimates, and belay stances described are a guide only. This route is still a serious undertaking due to the loose nature of the rock in sections. Be careful.

Gear: Standard rack, several alpine draws

Excellent. Solo up corner to first bolt (can protect with #1 camalot), then a strenous sequence of laybacking with poor feet, followed by some big moves right to the last bolt.

Brilliant climbing. High first bolt, then follow the grove up the arête until an airy step to the left to make the flake. Must do.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2012

Up the centre of the main wall, starting about 8m to the left of a deep, dirty corner. First bolt is about 15m up the cliff. There are some suss mild steel bolts on the 3rd and 4th pitches, currently best to rap off after the first 2 pitches.

  1. 45m 21, 14 bolts

  2. 35m 24, 13 bolts

  3. 35m 22, 11 bolts

  4. 20m 18, 9 bolts

Amazing. Start in hand crack just right of main cliff, which trends left leading to a line of bolts. Technical and engaging corner climbing past 6 bolts, then into a finger crack (0.75 camalot), and past a final bolt to the top. Take BD cams 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, 3.

Another excellent route. Follow the obvious line of bolts up a series of flakes into a shallow corner, finishing with some fun moves to gain the 'wagon wheel' around the right hand side of the arete. Classic.

Just right of prominent overhang. Up seam to enjoyable climbing using pockets and flakes. now has a single u and hanger to lower off

Enjoyable face climbing using pockets and large flakes.

Corner finger crack which heads left at the overhanging roof. Belay off double bolts.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz & Garry Phillips, 2012

Beautiful corner climbing with some really thoughtful moves required, if you have the stones to make it past the ledges. Needs medium cams to do semi-safely(0.4, 0.5, 0.75). A crux above the first ledge requires gear or you may as well be soloing.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2012

The prominent thin seam.

FFA: Squib Cubbon, 2018

Walk along the ledge to access the final route at the far right hand end of the crag. A very hard start and total sandbag.

FFA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2018

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

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