★★★ Talk is Cheap 24

The king line of this cliff and also the best.

Find the I've Heard it all Before rap anchors under a small bush near a cairn. -43.2063 147.8661

The rap in is the first crux, particularly the bottom pitches. Pre-equip the crux pitch to keep rope out of the drink when pulled. You may need to back-clip your way down a couple of the abseils.

Many parties fix a rope to knock out the first few raps, but a 70m (and probably a 60 too) will get you down easily.

1. 10m 14 From the ledge on the lip of the cave move easily up to a nice stance on the pocketed wall. Best to skip this one.

2. 35m 24 Money pitch. Steep and sustained over the 3 overlaps. Pre-equip badly placed 2nd bolt with long draw for drag and self preservation.

3. 40m 22 Traverse L past and up into the corner. Up this, then back R through and around roof. Continue up slabs above to the chill out ledge.

4. 15m 20 Plug in a medium cam then up the wall to a reach crux at top.

5. 20m 23 Head up and right through the steep juggy wall above, passing the Pocket of Love at the top.

6. 20m 22 Move R around the arête to crack, then then up the thin layback crack above.

7. 15m 21 Continue up the corner above. Some cams required. Used to be 19 but some holds broken?

8. 20m 17 Step R into the corner and then traverse diagonally R to the big ledge.

9. 5m 8 Scramble easily out as for IHIAB.

Suggested gear list: Double ropes (or a single 70m) and helmets, 10 short quickdraws and 5 long quickdraws, Camalots: 1 each of #.4 #.5 #.75 #1 #2. Note: this gear list does not allow for rappelling the route.

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (tasmanpeninsula@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

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Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.