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South Park Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Oliver Story Gavin Evans mellor Dane Evans Peri Bolton Glenn Andrew Grech Karina West Jonathon Colman

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Table of contents

1. South Park 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -35.306478, 148.810532

description

A west facing wall with more protection than most of Coree's crags. The angular nature of the rock at South Park contrasts nicely with the sheer faces which characterise Wind Wall. With patience, solid holds can be found at all angles leading to some fun and interesting moves. This area has seen less traffic, so it's worth bringing a stiff brush.

©

access issues

The Coree Summit Trail is open to vehicles (as of 10th Dec 2022). Curries and Two Sticks Road open, Pabral Road (see below).

--

The ACT Parks and Conservation Service (PCS) and NSW Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) have identified the ongoing deterioration of Pabral Road and the inherent safety risks presented to users during wet conditions given the slippery clay-based nature of this road. This culminated in $50K worth of maintenance work in 2014/15 and in 2016/17 Pabral Rd was closed for approximately 6 months due to the prolonged wet period and associated road degradation and safety issues. As you would be aware, these trails are used by the public, but they are primarily maintained as fire trails during the fire season, and maintained to a standard to also minimise sediment channelling into the Lower Cotter Catchment and subsequently the Cotter Dam.

With the above in mind, PCS and NPWS propose an annual seasonal closure of Pabral Rd between 1st June – 31st August via existing gates at the top and bottom of this road. Pabral Road will also be temporarily closed outside this period if deemed necessary due to safety or vehicular access causing unacceptable damage to the road surface. In most cases, the adjacent Curries Road will be open and offers an alternative route to Brindabella NP and Two Sticks Rd. In particularly wet periods, a gate will close access to both tracks. Alternative access during these periods will be by Two Sticks Rd (via Brindabella or Blue Range Rds).

Road closures will be signposted on site, and conveyed through Transport Canberra and City Services website - http://www.tccs.act.gov.au/roads-paths/act_public_road_closures or Access Canberra 12 22 81.

inherited from Mount Coree

approach

This area sits up and right of Little Scar Face, but can also be accessed from the top by walking down from a big steel post near the road.

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RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Apache

The low-angled arête left of Lobo Arête. 8 bolts to double rings. (Upgraded from a sandbagged 15 based on experienced climber feedback and AI)

FA: Greg Baines, 2014

19 Sport 25m, 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Lobo Arete

Tricky start into easier climbing then up through the slightly overhung corner, committed moves around onto the face and up the exposed arete on good holds to the top.

FA: Justin Ryan

22 Sport 25m, 11
3 Flying Fuck in a Rolling Donut

Inconspicuous holds at all angles make you earn this solid little climb.

FA: Justin Ryan

23 Sport 15m, 8
4 Head Effect

FA: Justin Ryan

22 Sport 4
5 Boggy Nights

Nice variety of moves on decent sized holds

FA: Justin Ryan

23 Sport 15m, 7
6 Honey White

Great route.

FA: Chris Warner

25 Sport 4
7 Chocolate Salty Balls

Search the depths of the lichen forest to discover some nice solid moves for the grade.

FA: Nathan Wales

20 Sport 12m, 6
8 Heavy Cloud

Good hard movements

FA: Chris Warner

23 Sport 3

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
19 Apache Sport 25m, 8
20 Chocolate Salty Balls Sport 12m, 6
22 Head Effect Sport 4
Lobo Arete Sport 25m, 11
23 Boggy Nights Sport 15m, 7
Flying Fuck in a Rolling Donut Sport 15m, 8
Heavy Cloud Sport 3
25 Honey White Sport 4
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