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Reddish buttress at the southern end of columns

© (jellyfish)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

On the face to the right of drama queen

FA: R Parkyn, Nov 2014

Climb RH crack for 7 m, then move into LH crack and up to below a bush. Traverse L and onto arete to Nefarious anchor.

Start: Crack to the right of bolted arete (Nefarious 22)

FA: S Parsons, K Bischoff & A Wing, 1981

A serious but rewarding single pitch route up the wall to the left of the obvious chimney (Berts Fear). The first half of the route follows the line of least resistance up, trending leftwards, to the obvious large jug on the arete. The climbing on this section is sustained face climbing, with care needed to be taken with some loose rock to be avoided, and some devious gear placements to be found. Small wires very important. From the jug on the arete, the climbing is easier, following a series of short blockly corners up and trending back right to a ledge with two small trees and a cluster of fixed tat. From this tat, a single 60m rope will get you back to the deck (although your probably better of leading the route on double ropes).

Contentious, original done as a trad route the unknowingly bolted a week later. Climbs the line left of the bolts, it is possible to go right of the bolt at the roof at grade 23.

Climb the wall left of Bert's Fear, starting at the base of the Bert's Fear chimney. There is thin crux at the second U and then a pumpy hike to the top (all sport).

FFA: Roger Parkyn & Owen Gervasoni, Mar 2013

FA: U. Aurelli, D. Cox & J. Fairhall

Sporty route between CSTS and P. Can be done as a second pitch to P, or a single pitch starting as for CSTS and using the DBB for that route to descend. Bring a light rack for the start and the finish

FA: A Wilson, 2004

Originally a short, bold, route connecting the Fiddlesicks ledge to the 1st belay of Precarious. A retro-bolt or two (as part of the logical arete line CSTS) have tamed the route, which is now normally done as part of AT or CSTS.

FA: H Jackson & M Jackson, 2000

Mostly sport route up the prominent arete left of Fiddlesticks. Start at the base of Fiddlesticks, and move left to arete (wire and small cam) to gain line of u-bolts. Balancy arete climbing on great rock. You'll probably place another wire & small cam up high before gaining a DBB.

FA: A Williams & D Grey, 2004

The easier first pitch to the ultra classic is an excellent route in its own right. Crimp hopping crux at the start.

1 22
2 25

Pitch 1 - 22 Pitch 2 - 25 Best done as 1 pitch

This route now has a direct start and finishes called 'The Directors Cut' 21

Start: Crack system to the L, around arete of Brown Madonna

  1. 26m (18) Crack to corner

  2. 36m (18) Crack to 1 m below bush, then traversee L to arete and up.

FFA: D Bowman & M. Steane

FA: J. Moore & R. Williams, 1977

Absolute classic. Up the arête to the left of Brown Madonna. Consistent, exposed, technical moves. Double ropes can reduce drag, but aren't mandatory.

1 25
2 27

Start at the bottom of the face moving towards the R arête after 10 m and back L to a hanging belay.

The second pitch was climbed at 27 by moving into Brown Madonna at 2/3 height. Nowadays rarely done as the Direct is a significantly better option.

FA: S. Edwards, 1996

One of the best climbs on the pipes.

Climb Pleasant Screams to just below the midway anchor then follow the line of bolts to the top in one mega pitch.

Avoid moving into After midnight and Brown Madonna, not as contrived as it sounds.

FA: S. Parsons, 2007

THE way to climb Brown Madonna. Avoids the shitty unprotected chimney at the bottom.

Climb the chimney 1m right of Brown Madonna to the hanging flake on the left where you can move back left into that route.

The tall overhanging column to the right of Brown Madonna, 60m single pitch route, sustained arete climbing as good as it gets. Take a no.1 camalot for the tip section. 19 quickdraws plus rap chains

FA: nick hancock


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