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Routes

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A nice line up the crack and arête just L of Where Eagles Dare Not.

Probably best to approach from above to avoid the fist pitch.

  1. 15m 18 Climb pitch one of Where Eagles Dare Not, belaying at first obvious ledge.

  2. 35m 22 Move L to the arête and ascend the discontinuous cracks just L of the arête. Step down and L onto the face and climb face and cracks to the top.

FA: S. Parsons, 1982

The crack-line up the front of Cossack Column.

  1. 40m. Up the short corner on the L, before stepping R at the small bush to gain the main crack. Climb over the bulge to a belay.

  2. 20m. Follow the v-groove around the corner to an easier ground.

FA: Ian Lewis & Kim Carrigan, 1974

The prominent crack up the front of Cossack Column. One of the best routes at the Organ Pipes.

  1. 15m (19) As for Tartarus. Belay in small corner just below narrow ledge that heads right.

  2. 45m (20) Travers right to the arete and follow intermittent crack lines up the column. Exit right under the block to the DBB.

FFA: Simon Parsons, Phil Bigg & Phil Cullen, 1982

Two pitch bolted arete right of Sky Rocket. Final pitch takes a few pieces of gear.

  1. 15m (24) Climb the line until face with fused groove. Up the groove and then out left to jug (crux). Continue right and up to DBB.

  2. 35m (23) Up the arete to DBB. Few pieces of gear at the end of the pitch.

In the recess just R of Cossack Column there is a large black chimney with a large chockstone 20m up. Scramble up 12m to the base of the chimney.

  1. 20m Up the chimney on the R to belay on a chockstone.

  2. 30m Continue up and belay on a large, grassy ledge.

  3. 12m Scramble up to the top

FA: M. Tillema & G. Batten, 1971

Old school bulimia? Follows the crack and groove lines that starts on a grassy ledge in a recess just R of Cossack Column.

  1. 25m Climb the crack/groove at the LHS of the ledge.

  2. 25m Continue up the corner until it is possible to finger traverse R into Battle-Axe Crack.

  3. 25m Finish up Battle-Axe Crack.

FA: I. Lewis & A. Hogarth, 1974

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