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Dog Rocks

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Access issues inherited from Mt Alexander

Most of Mt. Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Deep South Boulder
5
3
3m
3

Routes

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Grade Route

Walk up past Mandarin on the path to this boulder. Sit-start and climb the groove and arete.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 20 Jul 2019

Stand-start and climb the wall right of the arete (don't use arete!). A nice climb. 50 years ago today humans first landed on the moon.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 20 Jul 2019

Climb the arete on it's right-hand side from a stand-start.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 20 Jul 2019

Climb the arete on it's left-hand side from a stand-start.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 20 Jul 2019

Climb the wall on knobs and edges from a stand-start.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 20 Jul 2019

On the left up the hillside as you walk to the Scottish Reign amphitheatre from the car park. Sit start and head up the groove.

This takes the arete right of Mandarin from a sit start

Start on fallen over log, up obvious crack to direct finish up and over, don't go around the arete. May need to place a directional if top-roping to avoid whipping into tree.

FA: Neil Monteith, Kent Paterson & Ti, 2005

Link up between DM and McD, guide says it's 25+ but nothing like that

Stunning line up the best piece of real estate at the crag. Follow the seam past an awkwardly placed retrobolt, before joining Jacobite higher up.

Originally graded 24, however several key holds have now broken off and there seems to be a consensus that it's at least a grade harder. DO NOT AID THIS ROUTE ON CAMS OR CAM HOOKS. The flake is fragile and prone to breaking when loaded by these devices.

FA: Jeff Shrimpton John Sherman Charlie Creese, 1986

Much easier than it looks and really good climbing at the grade. Beware of your rope catching around the bottom of the flake. Up the first few metres of "Culloden". Clip the FH, then step across L and up to the flake. Undercling L and around into the final crack on "Scottish Reign". Scramble off R or pull over the top.

FA: Greg Caire & Glenn Tempest, Nov 2011

Right of 'Scottish Reign' and around the corner, climb the flexing hollow flake behind the stringybarks to the ledge.

FA: Michael Totterdell & Peter Geldart, 1996

It may be short but this little crack is actually worth roping up for. The L-leaning finger-crack 4m R of "Ecosse" is fairly tricky.

FA: Steve Morris & Alan Grogan, 1993

Up the arete above the bouldering slabs, past 2 bolts and tree branch (sling). Double bolt belay towards the back of the block.

Sit start (obviously) one move mantle, possible in Blundstones. The shortest route in the courtyard but possible nonetheless. This one is the boulder you'd probably sit on to belay for the above route

FA: Aiden Ellens, 20 Jun

Climb the wall and right arete just right of the bouldering slabs. Stand start.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2012

Up between the rounded arete and clean white streak right of Mother and Child.

FA: Cameron MacLeman, 30 Mar 2018

Continue south and uphill past the Braveheart terrace. To the southwest is a corridor formed by two boulders. The western boulder is capped by a split block and has a crack which doesn't reach the ground. Tartan goes up the arete at the north end of the corridor. Breach the cap via the horizontal break.

FA: Michael Totterdell & Phil Cox, 1997

The corner at the back of the deep chimney

As you walk into the Courtyard, there is a slab on the right which leads to a narrow chimney. Inside the chimney there is an obvious curving flake. Up this to the top.

FA: Roy Henderson & terry page, 1991

Climb the wall left of Finger Food to top out. High

FA: Julian Saunders

Desperate traverse with DRB at the top.

North side of the main outcrop, head down and right just before entering the Courtyard as you approach from the road.

Start at vertical crack on the RHS of the alcove. Up this then traverse L to finish up wide crack. This was originally graded 18 and was later upgraded to 20. If you only use the crack and don't bridge across to the left hand wall, or climb around the start, then this climb is more like 22

FA: James Findlay, Peter Martin & Hugh Sanderson, 1991

Start at Semantics then continue direct up the arete left of the roof.

Start up Semantics, then up to first FH on Modern Logic. Traverse R under the roof to DRB.

Desperate start to gain flake, then traverse R into Painless. Carrots.

Popular face climbing past BRs to a DBB.

This and the next few routes/problems all lie in a cluster of boulders to the right of the main approach path before you get to the courtyard.

Stand-start and climb the obvious groove. Use holds either side to help but finish directly above the groove. Technical. There is a large loose flake on the right at about 1/3 height - use this for your feet but try not to lever it off!

FA: Peter Reynolds, 18 Nov 2019

Start from the high fallen slab left of The Descendants and stretch left into the corner to a good hold. Finish from here on good holds. A strange but good route.

Located on the wall around the corner left of Mobile Phone. Climb the seam to the break (crux) then traverse left before finishing up the final crack. Soloed after top roping. The first seam to the break is a highball boulder problem at around V6. Soloed on the FA but could be done on gear - gear after the crux though.

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 26 Sep 2014

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 26 Sep 2014

The beautiful arete right of Mobile Phone taken on its left-hand side. Solo after top rope. No bolts or gear. Named after the River Severn.

Now has two fixed hangers and a lower off. Retro’d With permission of first ascentionist. Bit scary at the top, extend a sling from the lower off if feeling mortal.

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 31 Aug 2014

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 31 Aug 2014

Set by Ben, 15 Jul 2018

Climb the arete of 'Severn Tide' on its right-hand side to a tricky sloping finish. Solo after top rope.

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 6 Sep 2014

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 6 Sep 2014

Directly climb the wall right of Arlo's Arete. Do not use the right arete either. Crux at the top. Solo after top rope.

Now has two fixed hangers and a lower off. Retro’d With permission of first ascentionist.

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 19 Jan 2015

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 19 Jan 2015

Set by Ben, 15 Jul 2018

Up the beautiful arete opposite The Descendants. Can be done from both sides. A sit start is also available.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 2012

Climb the crack and arete to top out.

Traverse the horizontal crack from left to right, and top out.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 24 Sep 2013

Near the Rover...etc slab. Stand start and move from a seam to a slope. Top out.

Tiny climb with a tough start.

Just a bit further downhill from the Alcove

Crack on the left.

FFA: Max Keating & Karen Keating, 1992

Contrived slab between Fido and Rover.

Nice jamming up the central crack

FFA: Max Keating & Karen Keating, 1992

Hairline crack R of Rover, with very little protection

Western side of the main outcrop

Jumble of large boulders just West of the main outcrop. Approach by walking straight through the Courtyard.

The slab with no gear gets easier the higher you get

Tricky start leads to nice slabbing past the ugly RBs.

Arete near Little Bo Peep.

Square cut corner uphill from LBP and visible through the gully left of that route. Easy to ledge then boulder corner (bout V6) past 3 rings/Us (cant remember). Bolted by KP.

FA: 2012

rock on over

FA: kp & nmonteith, 2005

Climb begins 4m left of Fido follows horizontal break to arete then up.

FA: Paul McWaters & Rigel Butler

Thin face with a single fixed hanger at about 4m.

FA: kp, nmonteith & ti, 2005

Located to the right of the path when you approach Dog Rocks. Traverse the sloping boulder from right to left, starting matched on the rail and finish with a mantle on the god holds out on the far left hand side. A touch stiff?

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 19 Jan 2015

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 19 Jan 2015

This block is located just off the Goldfields Track heading towards Scorpion Rocks - about 5 mins from Dog Rocks.

Stand start with right hand on the pinch of The Dyke and left hand on a crimp. Big span. Pull on and go for the big flat hold with your right. Match and then go direct up the dyke to finish.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 16 May 2017

An obvious great looking problem up a dyke feature. Located on a lone boulder north of Dog Rocks close to summit trail – don’t stack pads – much easier if above 6 ft tall. Easy finish.

Squeezer by name and nature. As for SM but uses small sharp ear for left hand instead of crack crimp. Quite a bit easier than SMs first move.

Eliminate line near the arete to the right of The Dyke using a right-hand sidepull and left-hand crack-crimp to reach crimps/slopers, and then move left to jugs and top out. No arête on right.

Sit start with a side pull left of the crack. Gaston and foot jam your way up to the top and mantle. A cheeky arm bar may help

Note: may be possible to finish simply by side pulling

FA: Beor ong, 22 Feb

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