Garden boulders




The Garden Boulders exist on the lefthand side of the valley (when approaching from the south), of which Scorpian Rocks lies at the head. It is a small area to the left of the main path. If you head to the right up the hillside you get to the Lord Area and eventually Dog Rocks.

First ascents by a cast of thousands (possibly) including: Pete Reynolds, Simon Weill, Ash Sankey, Charlie Crease, Martin Lama, Kent Patterson and Neil Montieth. Specified where clear.

Access issues inherited from Mt Alexander

Most of Mt. Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).


Up from the oak plantation near harcourt.



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Grade Route

Start matched on the big arete left of Shots. Span out right to a break on the face, match with difficulty then move up and right to a better break. Finish up and easily via the arete.

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Mar 2018

Stand-start about 5m left of The Garden and climb the "shot-marks" to the right-trending flake line. Eases at the top.

FA: Charlie Creese, 2002

Stand-start with right hand on the obvious sidepull - stack pads if you need to. Climb up direct. EDIT - Pete Reynolds: this would require many pads stacked!


FA: Charlie Crease & Martin Lama

From a sit-start, climb the blunt arete left of The Groove on its lefthand side by way of a big move with the left hand to the scoop, and then topping out. A stand-start is possible but considerably easier.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds

Stand-start and climb the arete of The Garden directly without using the scoop of the former route. Hard move and stretch to a righthand side pull at the top.

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 12 Feb 2018

Wall that weaves between The Garden and The Groove. Stand-start.

Ascend the groove exiting left from a stand-start

FA: Charlie Creese, 2002

From a stand-start ascend the groove exiting to the right by gaining the crucial crimp with the left hand.

FA: Athol Whimp, 2006

Stand-start and climb the overhanging prow just up the hill from The Garden. Mantle finish. Revision: sit-start at this grade - easier from the stand.

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Feb 2018

Climb the arete from a stand-start moving rightwards to finish.

FA: Simon Weill

Direct up the slab about 2m right of Arbold Sane - through a tiny overlap.

At the far right of the slab take a direct line but move leftwards to finish below the high-point of the wall.

Takes the far right line proper - finishing at the high point of the wall



Climb the arete to an easing finish.

FA: Martin Lama

Climbs the slabby arete right of First Visit.

Thin climb

FA: Charlie Creese, 2002

Up thin crack and wall

On block abutting Embers. Sit-start with feet on adjacent boulder and go up sharp, friable arête.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 30 Nov 2013

The ten-year project finally goes down! Embers takes the obvious hanging arete from a stand-start. Left hand on the arete with a crystal thumb catch and right hand on the undercling. A powerful move on poor feet allows you to gain the small crimp. From here another hard move gets you established on easier ground. Continue up the right side of the arete all the way (don't rock around onto the left slab). Sticking my neck out with the grade but it's clearly the hardest problem currently at Mt Alex.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 18 Jul 2019

This problem is the top half of Embers and is clearly superseded by the full problem. Stack the pads massively to reach the small crimp on the right-hand side of the arete. Using this and the arete, pull off the pads powerfully. When established, slap for the better hold on the arete with your left. Finish more easily but stick to the right side of the arete.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 12 Feb 2015

Climb the right arete.

Climb the left arete.

Trad crack

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