A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Peter Reynolds @dalai Charlie Creese Tom Mike Freeman Zach Azeez Anthony Williams Nick Moore Robert Ford Bron Holdgate
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Garden Boulders 25 in Field
- 2. Index by grade
1. Garden Boulders 25 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -36.999803, 144.298113
description
The Garden Boulders exist on the lefthand side of the valley (when approaching from the south), of which Scorpian Rocks lies at the head. It is a small area to the left of the main path. If you head to the right up the hillside you get to the Lord Area and eventually Dog Rocks. Park at the Oak Forest and walk up the old access road.
First ascents by a cast of thousands (possibly) including: Pete Reynolds, Simon Weill, Ash Sankey, Charlie Crease, Martin Lama, Kent Patterson and Neil Montieth. Specified where clear.
access issues
PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER
Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).
Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.
Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).
Please see individual access notes for each area.
approach
Up from the Oak Forest near Harcourt.
ethic
Do not bolt highball problems except with agreement of the first ascentionist. In general, keep bolting to a minimum. Since 2010 there was been almost zero bolting of new routes.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
Ripcord
Start matched on the big arete left of Shots. Span out right to a break on the face, match with difficulty then move up and right to a better break. Finish up and easily via the arete. FFA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Mar 2018 | V4 | ||||||
2 |
★ Shots
Stand-start about 5m left of The Garden and climb the "shot-marks" to the right-trending flake line. Eases at the top. FA: Charlie Creese, 2002 | V4 | ||||||
3 |
Purple Reign
Stand-start with right hand on the obvious sidepull - stack pads if you need to. Climb up direct. EDIT - Pete Reynolds: this would require many pads stacked! FA: FA: Charlie Creese & Martin Lama | V4 | ||||||
4 |
★★ The Garden
From a sit-start, climb the blunt arete left of The Groove on its lefthand side by way of a big move with the left hand to the scoop, and then topping out. A stand-start is possible but considerably easier. FA: Peter Reynolds, Peter Reynolds & Charlie Creese - stand start 2002 | V8 | ||||||
5 |
★★ Landranger
Stand-start and climb the arete of The Garden directly without using the scoop of the former route. Hard move and stretch to a righthand side pull at the top. FFA: Peter Reynolds, 12 Feb 2018 | V3 | ||||||
6 |
Threading the needle
Wall that weaves between The Garden and The Groove. Stand-start. FA: Peter Reynolds | V4 | ||||||
7 |
★ The Groove
Ascend the groove exiting left from a stand-start FA: Charlie Creese, 2002 | V3 | ||||||
8 |
★ The Other Groove
From a stand-start ascend the groove exiting to the right by gaining the crucial crimp with the left hand. FA: Athol Whimp, 2006 | V5 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
★ Blue Blood Moon
Stand-start and climb the overhanging prow just up the hill from The Garden. Mantle finish. Revision: sit-start at this grade - easier from the stand. FFA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Feb 2018 | V4 | ||||||
10 |
★ Arnold Sane
Climb the arete from a stand-start moving rightwards to finish. FA: Simon Weill | V5 | ||||||
11 |
★ Rippled slab 1
Direct up the slab about 2m right of Arbold Sane - through a tiny overlap. FA: Charlie Creese 2002 | V1 | ||||||
12 |
★ Rippled slab 2
At the far right of the slab take a direct line but move leftwards to finish below the high-point of the wall. FA: Charlie Creese 2002 | V1 | ||||||
13 |
★ Rippled slab 3
Takes the far right line proper - finishing at the high point of the wall FA: Charlie Creese | V2 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 |
★ Step left
Stand-start FA: Peter Reynolds | V1 | ||||||
15 |
★ Step right
Stand-start FA: Peter Reynolds | V1 | ||||||
16 |
First Visit
Climb the arete to an easing finish. FA: Martin Lama | V4 | ||||||
17 |
Needles
Climbs the slabby arete right of First Visit. | V0- | 7m | |||||
18 |
★ Beetle
Thin climb FA: Charlie Creese, 2002 | V4 | ||||||
19 |
★★ Beetle Crack
Up thin crack and wall FA: Peter Reynolds | V4 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
20 |
Hypnotized
On block abutting Embers. Sit-start with feet on adjacent boulder and go up sharp, friable arête. FA: Peter Reynolds, 2013 | V3 | ||||||
21 |
★★ Embers
The ten-year project finally goes down! Embers takes the obvious hanging arete from a stand-start. Left hand on the arete with a crystal thumb catch and right hand on the undercling. A powerful move on poor feet allows you to gain the small crimp. From here another hard move gets you established on easier ground. Continue up the right side of the arete all the way (don't rock around onto the left slab). FA: Peter Reynolds, 18 Jul 2019 | V11 | ||||||
22 |
★★ Cassini
This problem is the top half of Embers and is clearly superseded by the full problem. Stack the pads massively to reach the small crimp on the right-hand side of the arete. Using this and the arete, pull off the pads powerfully. When established, slap for the better hold on the arete with your left. Finish more easily but stick to the right side of the arete. FA: Peter Reynolds, 12 Feb 2015 | V8 | ||||||
23 |
Three Little Kittens
Climb the right arete. FA: Peter Reynolds | V3 | ||||||
24 |
One-Two-Three
Climb the left arete. FA: Peter Reynolds | V1 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
25 |
★ Jam crack
Trad crack FA: Peter Reynolds | V0 | 5m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
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V0- | Needles | 7m | |||
V0 | ★ | Jam crack | 5m | ||
V1 | One-Two-Three | ||||
★ | Rippled slab 1 | ||||
★ | Rippled slab 2 | ||||
★ | Step left | ||||
★ | Step right | ||||
V2 | ★ | Rippled slab 3 | |||
V3 | Hypnotized | ||||
★★ | Landranger | ||||
★ | The Groove | ||||
Three Little Kittens | |||||
V4 | ★ | Beetle | |||
★★ | Beetle Crack | ||||
★ | Blue Blood Moon | ||||
First Visit | |||||
Purple Reign | |||||
Ripcord | |||||
★ | Shots | ||||
Threading the needle | |||||
V5 | ★ | Arnold Sane | |||
★ | The Other Groove | ||||
V8 | ★★ | Cassini | |||
★★ | The Garden | ||||
V11 | ★★ | Embers |