Help

Garden Boulders Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Peter Reynolds Charlie Creese Mike Freeman Zach Azeez Anthony Williams Nick Moore Robert Ford Bron Holdgate

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Garden Boulders 25 routes in Field

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.999803, 144.298113

description

The Garden Boulders exist on the lefthand side of the valley (when approaching from the south), of which Scorpian Rocks lies at the head. It is a small area to the left of the main path. If you head to the right up the hillside you get to the Lord Area and eventually Dog Rocks. Park at the Oak Forest and walk up the old access road.

First ascents by a cast of thousands (possibly) including: Pete Reynolds, Simon Weill, Ash Sankey, Charlie Crease, Martin Lama, Kent Patterson and Neil Montieth. Specified where clear.

access issues

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

inherited from Mt Alexander

approach

Up from the Oak Forest near Harcourt.

ethic

Do not bolt highball problems except with agreement of the first ascentionist. In general, keep bolting to a minimum. Since 2010 there was been almost zero bolting of new routes.

inherited from Mt Alexander
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ripcord

Start matched on the big arete left of Shots. Span out right to a break on the face, match with difficulty then move up and right to a better break. Finish up and easily via the arete.

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Mar 2018

V4 Boulder
2 Shots

Stand-start about 5m left of The Garden and climb the "shot-marks" to the right-trending flake line. Eases at the top.

FA: Charlie Creese, 2002

V4 Boulder
3 Purple Reign

Stand-start with right hand on the obvious sidepull - stack pads if you need to. Climb up direct. EDIT - Pete Reynolds: this would require many pads stacked!

FA:

FA: Charlie Creese & Martin Lama

V4 Boulder
4 The Garden

From a sit-start, climb the blunt arete left of The Groove on its lefthand side by way of a big move with the left hand to the scoop, and then topping out. A stand-start is possible but considerably easier.

FA: Peter Reynolds, Peter Reynolds & Charlie Creese - stand start 2002

V8 Boulder
5 Landranger

Stand-start and climb the arete of The Garden directly without using the scoop of the former route. Hard move and stretch to a righthand side pull at the top.

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 12 Feb 2018

V3 Boulder
6 Threading the needle

Wall that weaves between The Garden and The Groove. Stand-start.

V4 Boulder
7 The Groove

Ascend the groove exiting left from a stand-start

FA: Charlie Creese, 2002

V3 Boulder
8 The Other Groove

From a stand-start ascend the groove exiting to the right by gaining the crucial crimp with the left hand.

FA: Athol Whimp, 2006

V5 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 Blue Blood Moon

Stand-start and climb the overhanging prow just up the hill from The Garden. Mantle finish. Revision: sit-start at this grade - easier from the stand.

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Feb 2018

V4 Boulder
10 Arnold Sane

Climb the arete from a stand-start moving rightwards to finish.

FA: Simon Weill

V5 Boulder
11 Rippled slab 1

Direct up the slab about 2m right of Arbold Sane - through a tiny overlap.

FA: Charlie Creese 2002

V1 Boulder
12 Rippled slab 2

At the far right of the slab take a direct line but move leftwards to finish below the high-point of the wall.

FA: Charlie Creese 2002

V1 Boulder
13 Rippled slab 3

Takes the far right line proper - finishing at the high point of the wall

FA: Charlie Creese

V2 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 Step left

Stand-start

V1 Boulder
15 Step right

Stand-start

V1 Boulder
16 First Visit

Climb the arete to an easing finish.

FA: Martin Lama

V4 Boulder
17 Needles

Climbs the slabby arete right of First Visit.

V0- Boulder 7m
18 Beetle

Thin climb

FA: Charlie Creese, 2002

V4 Boulder
19 Beetle Crack

Up thin crack and wall

V4 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 Hypnotized

On block abutting Embers. Sit-start with feet on adjacent boulder and go up sharp, friable arête.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 2013

V3 Boulder
21 Embers

The ten-year project finally goes down! Embers takes the obvious hanging arete from a stand-start. Left hand on the arete with a crystal thumb catch and right hand on the undercling. A powerful move on poor feet allows you to gain the small crimp. From here another hard move gets you established on easier ground. Continue up the right side of the arete all the way (don't rock around onto the left slab).

FA: Peter Reynolds, 18 Jul 2019

V11 Boulder
22 Cassini

This problem is the top half of Embers and is clearly superseded by the full problem. Stack the pads massively to reach the small crimp on the right-hand side of the arete. Using this and the arete, pull off the pads powerfully. When established, slap for the better hold on the arete with your left. Finish more easily but stick to the right side of the arete.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 12 Feb 2015

V8 Boulder
23 Three Little Kittens

Climb the right arete.

V3 Boulder
24 One-Two-Three

Climb the left arete.

V1 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
25 Jam crack

Trad crack

V0 Boulder 5m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
V0- Needles Boulder 7m
V0 Jam crack Boulder 5m
V1 One-Two-Three Boulder
Rippled slab 1 Boulder
Rippled slab 2 Boulder
Step left Boulder
Step right Boulder
V2 Rippled slab 3 Boulder
V3 Hypnotized Boulder
Landranger Boulder
The Groove Boulder
Three Little Kittens Boulder
V4 Beetle Boulder
Beetle Crack Boulder
Blue Blood Moon Boulder
First Visit Boulder
Purple Reign Boulder
Ripcord Boulder
Shots Boulder
Threading the needle Boulder
V5 Arnold Sane Boulder
The Other Groove Boulder
V8 Cassini Boulder
The Garden Boulder
V11 Embers Boulder
Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文