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The Lord Area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 20-30 mins
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 21

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Description

This is an area with scattered granite boulders and a few longer slabs which lies along the foot of the hill below Scorpion Rocks.

You used to be able to drive into the Park and park at the foot of the hill, making it only a 5 minute walk. However, access area has changed with the building of the MTB park and the closure of all roads into this side of the mount. It is now a 20-30 min walk.

Access issues inherited from Mt Alexander

Most of Mt. Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Approach

Head to Harcourt and follow the signs down Market St and straight ahead onto the dirt road to the MTB Park. Turn left at the MTB Trail Head and follow for another 500 m to The Oaks camping ground.

Park at The Oaks and either walk up the creek or head south to the old bitumen access road heading east for around 800 m. When the bitumen road veers south, you will see a track running off to the left. If you're following the creek, turn left onto this this track. Head up the track to Garden Boulders and the Lord Area. When you get to the old stone hut (can't miss it), head left (west) to Garden Boulder and right and up the hill to the Lord Area

See also http://mountalexander.blogspot.com.au

Where to stay

There is good camping at The Oaks. There are toilets (part of the Bike Park), but no water. There is also a Hotel in Harcourt (Tread - good coffee shop) and Air BnB.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Basic climb. You can do it in sneakers.

Climb the arete.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 2010

Climb the arete and finish to the right.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 2010

Sit-start and climb the arete

FA: Peter Reynolds, 2010

Sit start to right of It Ain't Over climbing the face to its right. Arete is out for hands/feet. Probably done previously.

Climb the bulge.

FA: Ashley Sankey, 2010

Climb the slab and crack, and avoid the tree.

FA: Ashley Sankey, 2010

Climb the arete.

FA: Ashley Sankey, 2010

Climb the big crack

Climb the arete to the right of Go with the flow. Don't use the crack itself. Hard first half then eases considerably when you get yourself established on better footholds after lay-backing the arete and high-stepping. A really nice line with good climbing. Soloed after top roping.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 1 Mar 2019

Climb the centre of the slab between the two cracks. Nice climbing. Second half of the climb is harder than the first, with the crux being the last move. FA on top rope by Sam North on 8/4/2018. Soloed after top rope on 1/3/19 by Pete Reynolds.

FA: Sam North & Peter Reynolds, 8 Apr 2018

Sit start and climb the sharp wall of the well-named Cheese Grater. Painful.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 2010

Sit start and top out directly. Best route in the area on quality rock.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 2010

Start from a sit as for Into the Wild and then traverse off leftwards around the corner to finish easily.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 2010

Beautiful chainsaw toothed finger crack 5m to right of Into the Wild. Will go from a sit but will up the ante to V8/9. Start with right hand on obvious gaston sloper and left lower in the seam. A solid opening gambit gains the juggy horn... and then the fun starts! I would have graded this V6 but its a grade harder than Out of The Wild so V7 it is.

Sit-start and traverse leftwards to top out.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 2010

Stand-start and climb the bulging arete.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 2010

Stand-start and climb the arete all the way.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 1 Apr 2015

Climb the obvious ramp.

Climb the thin wall to large holds and traverse right to the big ramp. Finish up the ramp.

FA: Simon Weill

Climb the arete on the right hand side.

Climb the left side of the arete.

Climb the right side of the arete

FA: Charlie Creese, 2002

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