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Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall

14

Seasonality

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Description

This is the very prominent 85° wall with a small overlap near the top.

© (bundybear)

Access issues inherited from Mount Alexandra

Located in the Mount Alexandra Reserve, under stewardship of the Wingecarribee Shire Council.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Clip 1st bolt then streno start past 2nd bolt, then blistfull balancey moves past several more RB to anchors. For full value do the extension all that way to top of cliff.

FA: Simon Vaughan & Gavin Murray, 2004

From the anchors on "The Nose in 4 Minutes" , keep on going thru overhung territory and up to anchors on left.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2008

Start up Chook, then move right before the break (long draw here) then pull on to crimpy headwall. Then easily up to anchors...

FA: Jason Lammers, 2008

New FHs in 2000 replaced some only manky bolts. Now a fantastic excursion. Undercut start, then slab to sustained head wall. 5 FHs to lower off.

Straight up the tricky slab (4 RB) and then join Chook at the headwall. Start 2m right of Corner From Hell (4m left of Chook).

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2006

Start up the obvious easiest line as for Corner From Hell then wandering right at one third height and balance up the headwall, joining Chicken.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

Up obvious corner.

Was previously a trad climb but with dubious pro (and tree belay), now (2012) fully bolted with lower-offs.

FA: David Duke (solo), 2000

Obvious blunt feature, just left of CFH

FA: Brad Lumb & Jason Lammers

Set by Jason Lammers

Bouldery

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

Start: 10m left of CFH, near tree.

Up past 4 RBs to double RB lower off.

FA: G Murray & S Vaughan

Start: 2m left of S.

Fine short wall to ledge. Beautiful balance moves to last bolt. 4 RBs to lower off on T.

FA: Simon Vaughan, L. Robinson & Gavin Murray, 2001

A weird crux section at 3rd bolt (can be avoided on L, don't!). Start at bulgy face with RB's 14m L of CFH. Up to double rings.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze & Mark Pauluffchenko, 1997

Same as 'Trollberg', but at 3rd bolt move to the left and use the crack, then up and back on the climb and continue to anchors.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze & Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

Not too bad, start: 2m left of T, below dirty corner crack.

Up the crack (4 RBs plus natural gear) to tree belay.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze & Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

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