The Main Cave




The obvious massive cave with the high rooves. The routes on the right side of the cave on the buttress are newly rebolted with rings and are all very good. There is awesome pumpy roof climbing in the main cave.

© (bundybear)

Access issues inherited from Mount Alexandra

Located in the Mount Alexandra Reserve, under stewardship of the Wingecarribee Shire Council.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Twin cracks on easy slab. Duplicated by 'Fright Night 3'.

FA: Craig Sloss (solo)

Originally no protection, soloed by Tim Cartwright. Now bolted as 'Back to the Future'

Set by Matt Tranter

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

Left blank face of arete. Originally no protection, arete proper now bolted as 'Back to the Future'

The cracked corner.

FA: Craig Sloss

Rebolted 9/10/2010. Up little closed corner passing 3 RB's and surmount top of corner to clip the the first headwall RB of "Three Wise Monkey's" then step right. Up the tricky start and headwall.

How the boys arrived at grade 17 for this route I don't know?

FA: Flint Duxfield & Geordie Williamson, 1998

Newly rebolted so start up the little closed corner as for "El Captain Pants" and straight up the headwall passing a combination of 8 RB's and hangers.

FA: Geordie Williamson & Flint Duxfield, 1998

Fantastic jugging through a small section of the main roof. Start 3m Downhill from arête at traverse line. Traverse L past #1 SLCD placement to 2 BR's into small roof (BR) then up and left past 2 FH's to double rings. 5 BR's.

FA: Garth Miller, 1991

Start as for O. Up as for O to join WL at traverse line. Then as for WL.

FA: G Williamson & F Duxfield., 2000

Newly rebolted. Step left after climbing the bolted little corner and up nice orange and featured headwall to lower offs. Beautiful really. Up closed little corner as for "Three Wise Monkeys" Some hold searching required mid height

FA: G. Williamson. F. Duxfield, 1998

Up little corner step left and up line of bolts right of Airy not scary. Nice longish moves. Up little bolted corner as for Airy Not Scary Nice moves up flakes, bit of friction when lowering off, unclip some draws on the way down if some else is doing it with the draws in!

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

Up little bolted corner from ground level and traverse left and up on RB's right of "White Limbo" on the headwall, on holds that you know you just won't let go of. This route finishes up the second last line of rings up the headwall looking right to left above the main cave.Start up bolted closed little corner as for the previous routes

FA: Simon Vaughan, 10 Oct 2010

A very nice climb! Start as for WWYSIISTYTTGWL(!) up to clip new RB, one move up then traverse L to BR up into cave as for WL then fire straight up wall to chains.

FA: G. Williamson. F. Duxfield., 2000

"Batman" up to obvious good incut holds, then heave up to slab and up headwall as for "Airy Not Scary" Underneath big grey bulge 5 metres right of Project - Simon Vaughan All you need is belief and a little bit of Kung Fu

FA: Simon Vaughan, 19 May 2013

Start: Left of O, below middle of roof. Stick clip first BR, then dyno and slab up to roof. Out the lovely roof to double RB lower off just over lip. 7 RBs in total.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

After heaving up the same start as "Desperate Liasons" head right to get into the obvious hole and slap like a madman to get into the big scoop above and right, up mini arete, then finish up "Airy Not Scary". Hardest thing I have put up

Start: 4m left of DL. Up to 3rd BR, then move right and up past 5 more BRs (stay right) to chain. The last bolt is hard to clip, and is safe to skip on the RP attempt.

FA: Garth Miller, 1993

Start as for UD (in the middle of the cave), up past a carrot and continue up to the 6th hanger (has mallion attached). Then move left to finish on chain shared with DdF.

last bolt in roof and anchors rebolted 10/02/2019 by Adam Kerz & Phill Lengyel

FA: Garth Miller, 1991

A good route to get pumped senseless on! Start as for CH, follow the line of bolts that leads you up and left. Milk the rest and traverse up on the lip of the cave past squillions of bolts to chain shared with CH.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

Start 3m left of DdF/CH/UD (stick clip advised to join DdF up till 5th BR then go straight ahead past another bolt to join CH.

FA: G. Williamson. F. Duxfield., 2000

A good way to experience massive pump without the crux of DdF, pity about the grotty start. Start 10m L of TCD move R with Natural Protection to sit down under roof. Out as for DdF.

FA: F Duxfield, 1997

As for OoaL, but at roof continue with feet on lip (natural pro). Continue round to double RBs on WL. Rap.

Start as for OoaL. Straight up (U anchor at top of wall for top roping).

On the outside wall of the cave

FA: V Wills, 2008

The next one along

FA: V Wills & R Wills, 2008

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