Showing all 6 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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22 | ★★ The Governor
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19
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20
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20
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16
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18
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21
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21
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18
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14
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21
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20
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22
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22
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14
The pitch lengths haven't been verified, so don't rely on their accuracy. Also, some grades are also not accurate and need to be verified. Caution: some mallions on anchors are rusting out. The longest sport climb in Queensland (320m), this adventure sport climb takes you through the highest and steepest part of Mt Barney's imposing East Face. It's a very sustained route with very few easy pitches, and the individual pitches are also sustained in themselves. This route has mega exposure, good falls, a fair few really enjoyable pitches of climbing, and some rotten rock thrown in. A lot of the loose, sitting death blocks mentioned previously have been removed, but no promises. However, it still remains a serious undertaking, and self-rescue skills, early starts, general efficiency, a solid head, and determination are ALL necessities. At points this climb lacks line and can feel forced, but whatever the case, it definitely required vision and effort to establish. The highest climb in Queensland is not for your average sport climber, and would best suit those with a sense of adventure and a taste for mountaineering. A real Queensland test piece for those seeking to up their game for bigger expeditions. Approach: Once on the landing below the face, traverse/bushbash along the face towards a large rock apron and follow that down, and then you'll come to a part which gets exposed. Here you climb straight up too a bushy ledge (tricky moves) and easily follow the rock along for 50m. Here you'll find the start of the climb.
FA: 2008 | 320m, 15 | |||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge
A nice day hike up the ridge starting from Yellowpinch Carpark, with the final 1km to the summit offering nice scrambling in a fantastic position. Navigational aids receommmended in case the faint track is lost, especially post-fires. | 900m | |||
3 | ★★ SE Middle Ridge | 1000m | |||
17 | ★ East Face Route
1
12
30m
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13
25m
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13
30m
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14
25m
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14
25m
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17
27m
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14
30m
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14
30m
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14
30m
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14
30m
Description partially taken from Rob Rankin's Secrets of the Scenic Rim, and the original guide linked below, with modern amendments. Most tree/shrub belays have disappeared from these guides. http://www.qurank.com/guides/Guide_MtBarney.pdf This 297m route takes the obvious central chimney which splits the face, formed by two dykes.
7-10) 120m (14) - Follow a series of vegetated chimneys up to the exit gully. FA: J. Tillack, D. Groom & L Wood, 1966 | 280m, 10 | |||
2 | ★ Little Logan's Ridge
The rocky ridge directly south of Logan's ridge. It starts at a creek junction behind Yellowpinch Hill. Can be accessed by rockhopping Logan River either sides of Yellowpinch of traverse south from lower Logan's Ridge. Both approaches are long, steep and extremely vegetated. This is an off track route. Once the rocky ridge proper is reached, the scrambling is pleasant, typical Barney slabs on bomber rock. Once the ridge ends on the bottom of the east face, the summit can be reached by climbing an obvious long gully on the right side of the east face or by escaping to Logan's Ridge with a slow and scrubby traverse. | 500m | |||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge
A superb scramble up an exposed rocky ridgeline. Access by walking back along the road from Yellowpinch carpark before heading into the bush towards the ridge. The scramble is more difficult and exposed the more left you stay on the ridge. FA: Captain Logan, 1828 | 750m |
Showing all 6 routes.