Help

Main Wall

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

The first wall to be given proper attention at Mt. Cooroora. It hosts a handful of superb moderate to difficult routes. Many of the harder routes start from the 'Snake Ledge' 40m off the deck. Access to this is via climbing either 'Surface Complexity', 'Every Creeping Thing', or 'Touching the Tartan'.

Access issues

The 'Snake Ledges' are affected by falcons. Please consider your impact. Falcon season is from August to December.

Approach

After reaching 'Adventure Time Wall', walk leftwards along the cliff face until some impressive overhangs are in sight. This is the 'Main Wall'.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Climbs listed Right to Left

1 21
2 19
3 23
4 21
  1. 25m Shares the first two bolts of Odessa.

  2. 25m

  3. 30m

  4. 30m This pitch is mixed. Take some offset nuts, some micro cams and a BD number 3.

Set: zac & Kel, 2015

FFA: zac & Kel, 2016

FA: zac, 2016

1 22
2 25
3 ?
4 17
  1. 30m (22) Up slabby ramp for 3FH to slightly over hanging wall. Up this wall on interesting features until it slabs out again, up slab to anchor.

  2. 20m (25) A thought provoking, calf burning pitch. Up the slab on glassy feet until you reach the open book corner. Up the corner until you reach a decent stance under a short 45° bulgy roof. Break out left from the corner to reach the flake directly under the roof. Then some funky movement to get though the bulgy roof to anchor.

  3. Unfinished.

  4. 30m (17) Up left from belay to arete then slab to DBB.

10m Left of Odessa next to black corner. Up the white line of rock. Great technical climbing through the crux. After the third bolt cruise through a high crux to gain the last bolt. Lower off a small ledge at the anchor rings 10m directly below Ill Gotten Gains.

FFA: Ash Brand & Ash Colston, 3 May 2014

FA: mason minto & lisa gumley, 3 May 2014

1m Left of Stem and Trust the Rubber. Originally climbed Aid Solo and later climbed Free hence the hammered in Pecker at the 3rd FH. This route will see you high on the slab in a sea of thin crimpers.

FFA: mason minto & lisa gumley, 2020

FA: mason minto, 2020

1m left of Finding Adrenalin. Climbs the Line of black painted FH's. Finishes at anchor close to "snake Ledge". Small nuts, and a range of cams will see you to the anchors a few meters under Ill Gotten Gains.

To reach "Snake Ledge" via this route traverse left into Surface Complexity for it's last two bolts reaching the U-bolt anchor.

FA: Zac Trembath-Pitham

FFA: Mason Minto

Set: Zac Trembath-Pitham, 2014

Two cruxy bits of extreme thinness padded out with joyous angular jugs and slots. U-Bolt anchor is up on "Snake Ledge". A 70m rope will get you back to the ground (just!).

FA: John J. O'Brien & David Steptoe, 2006

1m left of Surface Complexity. A technical adventure with some of the thinnest holds on the face. Save some toe strength to clip the anchor.

To access "Snake Ledge" via this route traverse right into Surface Complexity clipping it's last two bolts to U-Bolt anchor.

FFA: Mason Minto

Some masochists will surely want to repeat this some day! Start below the black shield, in a right curving corner.

  1. 50m (- M2) Up corner to tree. Six aids. Up to "Snake Ledge"

  2. 30m (-) As for 'Bolt From The Blue', but then aid and free diagonally R to base of black corner (overgrown with ferns).

  3. 55m (-) Up corner (Carrot bolts and gear) to ledge, up to top.

Note: The Carrot bolts on this route are extremely rusted out and are probably unusable.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Fred From, 1975

Start: Scramble up gully to find the first bolt. Belay here.

Some big gymnastic moves on monster jugs. Up the corner into steep terrain. Pull L onto the buttress at half height; watch out for loose blocks here. DBB on ledge just below "Snake Ledge". Using a 70m rope will get you back to the ground.

To access "Snake Ledge" Via this route continue up a further two bolts to anchor. Be mindful of scree.

FA: John J. O'Brien & David Steptoe, 2006

Shares same start as I don't like your Bonox. Climb the L wall easily past two FH's, then ramble up easy angled terrain passing FH until it's possible to pull L onto slab (FH). Follow the line of FH's up the enjoyable easy slab which gets more difficult as you move higher. The final moves traversing R on pockets are sure to excite. Anchor on ledge.

FFA: Lee Cujes & John J. O’Brien, 2006

About 10m L around corner from Every Creeping Thing up in corner. High-ish first bolt. Finish up Dirty Chai anchors. Be sure to stay straight and not pull onto the No Crème No Lait slab.

Some old school Trad done in the modern day!

FFA: Mason Minto & Zac Trembath-Pitham, 14 Jul 2014

The ledge above the Main face's ground level. Access by climbing either 'Surface Complexity', 'Every Creeping Thing', or 'Touching the Tartan'. Take at least a 70m rope to get back down to the ground.

Traverse out right and diagonally up the engaging slab to the base of overhung arête. Up, with some bouldery, and then balancy moves on amazing scoopy rock features. Mind-blower!

Set: jjobrien

FA: Lee Cujes, 2007

From the right U-bolt anchor pull through bulge onto slab passing several FH's until it steepens. 'Layback' and pass the old rusty aid bolt via a stern move R. Now balance your way up the continually interesting arete to rap station. This "Warm-up" still demands respect.

FA: Lee Cujes & John J. O'Brien, 2006

Climb BFTB for six FH's then step L and up past another five FH's to lower off in corner. Interesting and technical climbing, the only downside being portions of questionable rock. All the critical holds are solid, but please, no cleaning beyond a brush.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2007

Starts 2m R of the middle U-bolt anchor. A few tricky slab moves lead to some huge moves on mega jugs. Pass a few tastefully spaced FH's and boulder to the final headwall. The beautifully sculptured rock at the top resembles Coolum-esk features, power through three more FH's to a sting in the tail finish that will get your heart racing.

Some long slings will help alleviate drag.

FA: Lee Cujes, John J. O'Brien & Gareth Llewellin, 2006

This very humble line launched a career of bolting for Duncan. Bouldery start into a crimpy traverse, solid features.

Set: Duncan Steel, 2006

FFA: Cal & Louis knox, 24 Oct 2020

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Wed 19 Apr
Check out what is happening in Main Wall.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文