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Warren Conservation Park 🚫 Rock climbing 7 routes in crag

Grade context: AU
Photos: 4
Ascents: 16

Climbing in this area is banned/illegal.

10 13 15 17 19 21 23

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Description

some slab, crack and a 45* over hang

Access issues

Illegal

This area has not been gazetted for rock climbing in accordance with the National Parks and Wildlife Act (1972) and the Wilderness Protection Act (1992). Thus, climbing here is illegal and penalties may apply. A bush bash.

Approach

Gentle 45-60 min

Use the new track until you come to the foot bridge then walk around the big tree in front of you and you will find the old Heysen trail follow this until you come across a river (only runs after heavy rain) and walk in a straight line to the cliff. (at the river crossing there maybe some pink marking tape for a path though the bush )

Where to stay

Willimstown

Ethic

only leave your foot prints. take all rubbish out with you.

History

History timeline chart

Found by George Adams some time in 1987. One old Colin Reece now finished

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Routes

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A big, wide easy-angled crack left of a knobbly slab

FFA: George Adams & Sandy Hancock, 1987

Boldly up the middle of the knobbly slab (caution pro is spaced apart)

FFA: George Adams & Sandy Hancock, 1987

The left leading diagonal crack, climb delicately up the crack line and around two small roofs to finish up the steep hand jam crack

FFA: George Adams & Sandy Hancock, 1987

this route is an open project use the start of TNG until you are on the slab then traverse left and follow the left side of the slab to the over hang and straight up though the knobby over hang and top out left of the rock at the top

Set: Ryan Fitzpatrick, 19 Jun 2015

climb TNG to the first small over hang and follow straight up though the knobby over hang to top out just right of the rock that over hangs the top.

Set: Ryan Fitzpatrick, 6 Apr 2015

FA: Ryan Fitzpatrick, 19 Apr 2015

You will need 8 removable hangers Start near the tree at the base and follow up the slab to the first over hang and then traverse right under the top over hang to escape right to top out . (the crux is near the finish)

FA: Ryan Fitzpatrick

Set: Ryan Fitzpatrick, 6 Apr 2015

FFA: 19 Jul 2015

Starts on the left hand side of the wall. Make some bouldery moves up an overhanging Arete to two pegs. From here continue up overhang past a bolt and up face passing another two bolts. Make a committing top out. The gear is aging. Pegs and bolts are rusty.

FA: Col Reece

Set: Col Reece

FFA: Peter Arcidiaco, 19 Apr 2015