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Lizard Rock

17

Seasonality

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Description

A collection of boulders around Lizard Rock. Mainly slabs but some overhangs and flat walls.

Access issues inherited from Para Wirra

The area forms the Para Wirra Conservation Park.

Approach

Located next to the North Oval. Make your way to the car park of the North Oval and park next to the toilets. The start of the Lizard a Rock hiking trail is found directly behind it. Follow it anti-clockwise until you reach post sign 7. The boulders reside directly behind it. There is an old trail that brings you down to the boulders along the river and back up again. A little overgrown but still visible.

History

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Established by Petey Pete and Hung Nguyen.

Routes

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Grade Route

(The "cherry" was a puddle..) Stand start on high right-hand crimp and left hand low on small edge. Quite nice climbing but on a series of untrustworthy flakes

FA: Ben Dickson, 3 May

Located on far left hand side of boulder. Stand start with your left hand in large side pull and right hand in a sharp crimp. follow the prominent layback edge to the top.

FA: R,K,F, 2 Aug 2015

Takes the line with the two prominent side pulls. Stand start with your left hand in the side pull and right hand on the edge. top out just left of the big boulder at the top.

FA: @peteypete, 4 Aug 2015

Climb Spider Dance, but top out right, following the thin seam towards Gecko. Slightly physically harder than Spider Dance but a lot less committing and more secure

FA: Ben Dickson, 3 May

Start at the base of Spider Dance and traverse right, toping out at the very end of the rock. Nice consistent crimpy traversing.

FA: Ben Dickson, 3 May

Start a metre right of 'Spider Dance'. Stand start with a small left hand side pill edge and right hand gaston. Head directly up to prominent high edge and top me mantle out. An alernate finish is to escape right once hands of are on the top out at the same grade.

FA: Toi Suriyasenee, 4 Aug 2015

Stand start with right hand on top edge and left hand on bottom edge. Head left to a sharp crimp and head directly up.

FA: R,K,F, 2 Aug 2015

Up the middle point of the boulder. Start matched on good edge and head up. Established after it had been raining. This section of rock was wet. Felt like trying to climb up a waterslide.

FA: @peteypete, 2 Aug 2015

Starts just right of 'The Waterslide'. Stand start with left hand on side pull and right hand on edge. Head directly up and over.

FA: R,K,F, 2 Aug 2015

Start a metre right of 'Techin'. Stand start with left hand in side pull and right hand undercling. Move to the big edge at half height then another good edge and straight up.

FA: @peteypete, 2 Aug 2015

Start on two side pulls. Climb to a stance on the bulge and straight up.

FA: @peteypete, 4 Aug 2015

A lowball. Situated along the river directly down from the boulders along the path. Sit start under overhang on good left hand edge and right hand pinch. Bust a move or two to the top and mantle out.

FA: Toi Suriyasenee, 4 Aug 2015

Sit start on a good edge. Head out to an unlikely two finger crimp and straight up.

FA: Daniel Gensemer, 3 May

Start as for This Is Sandstone, but adds a few committing moves to finish at the right as for The Layback

FA: Ben Dickson, 3 May

Start as for 'Moon Step' but head left along small edges and a very nice slopping rail and top out on the left hand side.

FA: @peteypete

Sit start inside little overhang matched on good undercling. Make a big move out to a small sloping edge then up on small hold. Finsh direct or as for 'Moonwalker'.

Sit start and climb the layback.

FA: Hung

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