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Slab Walls

27

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Description

Dew can make the cliff slippery till 10am or so. Hot in summer after 12. Sizable expanse of rock separated from Main Wall by large vegetated gully.

Access issues inherited from Mt Gibraltar

Located in the Mount Gibraltar Reserve.

Approach

When approaching Slab Walls please stick to the established paths. Local rangers have approached climbers identifying that new trails (short cuts) are being created which is affecting the local vegetation.

The Slab Wall descent is NOT suitable for beginners, take them down the North Walls access and around the base OR belay them down the long rope downclimb about halfway down, especially if the rock is damp.

Easiest approach is either down the descent ramp, or abseil in as per the Main Wall and walk around, or down the north descent and walk around.

Descent notes

Not suitable for beginners!Use the North wall access or belay. Facing out walk 12m left from the little hut to a "Warning Cliff Edge" sign. Continue another 12m where you'll find a flattened cairn on your right. Walk down this trail to a tree (belay at top of Gripping Yarn). Facing out descend to your left and through the hard step down. Continue down and right where you'll see the mantel on Gripping Yarn. Head diagonally left and down 25m across gully, then back right to a green rope tied to a tree. Far From The Madding Crowd and Road Less Travelled start R (facing cliff) of the bottom of this roped section. Continue down through the scrub to another short rope down to base. You are now about 20m R (facing cliff) of The Very Easy Route. It takes about 3 minutes to get down.

History

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Wandered all over in the 70s, rediscovered by locals.

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Routes

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Grade Route

At the bottom of the descent rope drop down one more level to the bottom of the crag. Turn left facing the cliff and walk past the cracks of The Very Easy Route Etc. Blood Magic starts at the very low point of the crag, under the prow of Big Bird.

1 16
2 17
3 17
4 15

Start at the very low point of the crag.

  1. (16) 8 bolts - Start easily up the slab to arete and crack. Shared double bolt belay with Here Be Dragons.

  2. (17) 8 bolts - Shares firsts 4 bolts of Here Be Dragons. Up short wall behind anchors. Traverse right 3 meters to base of giant gully. Follow the left line of bolts around the edge of the slab. Double bolt belay on ledge to left of the next big tree.

  3. (17) 8 bolts - Start up water runnel then keep left to run strait up the arete. Double bolt belay at ledge.

  4. (15) 6 bolts - Start to the right of belay then tend left and up through blocks. Up two more slabs to final double bolt belay.

Set by Adam Rabjohns

FFA: Adam Rabjohns, 6 Nov 2018

1 15
2 17
3 17
4 18

Start at the very low point of the crag. Meanders up through the old descent gully on really cool features.

  1. (15) - Grit stone-esk slab. Follow 4 bolts to large ledge and tree. Double bolt belay.

  2. (17) - Up short wall behind anchors. Traverse right 3 metres to base of giant gully. 7 bolts up blunt arete, through less than perfect rock to another large ledge and tree. Double bolt belay.

  3. (17) - 8 bolts up face to large ledge. Belay from double ring bolts on the right.

  4. (17)- Trend left over easy broken ground to the bottom of the giant blocks. Pull up through blocks, taking care on the final boulder problem. Addition protection from an old bolting Friend in the crack if you are feeling a little exposed. (Hard move but sympathetically bolted.) Pointless but so much fun.

Set by Matt Tranter

FA: Matt Tranter, 18 Sep 2018

Offwidth corner crack about 50m right of Access Route, 20m R of big choss gully, and 50m left of base of Descent Ramp.

  1. 20m Up crack past bush to poor belay.

  2. 30m Up slaby seam with poor protection to poor belay under boulder. Scary solo off, or stay roped up!

FA: F.Duxfield & G.Williamson 1996

Nice corner 10m R of Suicidal Dreams. Belay at rings on right (belay 2 of The very Easy Route). Done before, thought to be RRD for many years.

3 nice pitches. Start at RRD initials, about 10m L of Gripping Yarn. P1 30m 17 Start up first few moves of RRP and left up nose to 2nd belay Very Easy Route (rings). P2 30m 17 Up friction slab above belay (stay out of the crack) then up left to Gripping Yarn second belay, left end of overlap. P3 10m 17 Up arete to hidden pockets on slab

About 20m right of Suicidal Dreams, groove 8m left of gripping Yarn. Marked with faint yellow paint.

  1. 30m Up crack past blackberries to ring belay as for The Very Easy Route

  2. 30m Step left and up cracks then left to belay as for Gripping Yarn P2.

1 16 15m
2 16 50m
3 14 30m

Nice slabbing with a few easy run outs. Easiest to walk down the descent ramp, the route starts up a thin crack some 35m L of the Descent Ramp. Or else 30m R of the big choss gully on the R side of the Main Wall is a fine thin crack up the face of short flake.

  1. 15m (16) Up past 3 bolts then on to DBB. If this pitch is wet do P1 of 'The Very Easy Route' and traverse in.

  2. 50m (16) Straight up past 8 bolts and then traverse left below overlap to DBB.

  3. 30m (14) Head left up easy slab (BR) and mantel (BR) past cracks and up over 2 bulges, walk back to tree.

(P1 claimed as Mark Farrels Crack in 1997, but regularly climbed in the 70s)

  1. 50m (16) From the Maur i Rompa belay bolt at the left end of the ledge, follow the seam leftwards, 2m past Gripping Yarn and up past a carrot. Then diag L to jug and around arete to good crack (RRP). Follow this to Break then follow easy seam with no gear for 10m and leftwards to GY Belay#2.

  2. 30m (14) finish up GY

FA: Michael Law, 1978

It's possible to wander all over the wall with many variations. This captures the best easy climbing, the pitches are short so you can watch seconds. You can easily combine P1+2, and P4+5 if you use a few slings. All rings. Follow the rings. There is one ring to rule them all.

  1. 10m Follow layback crack about 15m R of gripping Yarn to ledge.

  2. 25m Walk left, crossing Gripping Yarn (you can step up and clip a fixed hanger here, use a sling to cut drag), and then up short wall and easy slab, move L to belay on block.

  3. 30m step left across corner then left 5m further and up slab and bulge, then leftwards to belay in hole.

  4. 20m diagonally left to overlap. Left and up short corner and wall to belay.

  5. 25m Up right to bolt and traverse R into descent gully or better, up last sections of Gripping Yarn above.

Nice climbing up an old fashion slab with good but sparse gear, Climb up chimney about 6m R of Gripping Yarn (sling tree), step R and onto slab and easily straight up black streak to diagonal at 15m, good wires. Easy runout up black streak to flake, step left (good baby cams now that the paper flakes have been removed) finishing up a flared seam. There are 3 good small wire placements , take a nut tool as the crack catches bit of dirt (and reading glasses if you're old) Finishes at the top of the green rope in the Access Ramp. Technically about 16, and would have been graded 17 if it was in Booroomba

Original route in the area, superseded by The Mittagong Two Step. After the 3rd BR go up the easy corner

FA: James Bultitude & Jake Griffiths

Start up The Very Easy Route to the first belay or walk in along ledge. Up rightwards past 3 bolts to the smooth scoop (18) then left to the corner (optional medium cam), step left and up arete past 2 bolts. Up delicately to the belay (2 bolts, descent rope tied to one)).The first half of the pitch was originally done as Maur i Rompa

FA: Ian Ryan & Jeffrey Crass, 2017

Start on the ledge directly below the descent rope. Follow the cool little ripple up the ledge to double belay anchors. Great beginners slab route, easy to protect, easy to bail. Follow the handline to the belay bolt.

Routes on the right hand side of the descent rope. Routes read left to right looking at the crag. Barking Knuckles starts one metre right of the descent rope.

Three good easy pitches going leftwards up the spine of the buttress

  1. 20m (11) 5 x FH to DFH belay. Beginner fun on easy slab.

  2. 20m (13) 5 x FH to DFH belay. More beginner fun on easy slab.

  3. 20 (10) 5 x FH. Head up diagonally left, over step, and left up seam DFH belay, walk off carefully left (or stay belayed)

Set by Jeffrey Crass & Brendon Flanagan, 12 Dec 2017

FA: Brendon Flanagan, Jeffrey Crass, Phuong Ho, Geoff Cooper, Chanté Fisk, kip, ian, sandy & Matt Tranter, 18 Mar 2018

Left line on the slab. Use both sides of the big flake to get onto the face. Balancy moves on good holds to get to the first FH.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 8 Apr 2018

FA: Brendon Flanagan & Chris A, 8 Apr 2018

Right line on the slab. Pass the first easy bolt and up to runnel. Up runnel and trend left. Up easy slab, around bush, easy mantel to DFH.

Set by Brendon Flanagan & Matt Tranter, 18 Mar 2018

FA: Brendon Flanagan & Chris A, 8 Apr 2018

  1. 15m (17) 3 x FH to vertical hand/feet crack. Cams #1-3 then to DFH belay. The money pitch. Fun feature climbing up to the crack where your cams come into play. What's your crack plan? Lay back or jam?

Set by Brendon Flanagan

Set by Jeffrey Crass & Brendon Flanagan, 12 Dec 2017

FA: Brendon Flanagan, Jeffrey Crass, Kip Newing, Matt Tranter, Phuong Ho, Geoff Cooper, Sandy & Ian, 18 Mar 2018

FFA: 18 Mar 2018

FA: Brendon Flanagan, Jeffrey Crass, Phuong Ho, Matt Tranter, Geoff Cooper, kip, Ian Ryan & Sandy, 18 Mar 2018

Nice easy (introductory) slab climbing, 2 meters left of 'Far from the Madding Crowd'. up the short black slab to DBB and lower off.

FA: Jeffrey Crass, Peter Butcher, Claire Cinnoni, Paula A Cisternas, Chanté Fisk, Brendon Flanagan, Emily Petherbridge, Phuong Ho & Richelle, 12 Nov 2017

1 17
2 18

Either abseil down from above or descend the fixed rope in the descent gulley or from bottom by following cliff around until a fixed rope is found to access start alcove. Top wall tends to be wet after rain and will seep.

  1. 12m (17) Start below water runnels under a small crack. Five bolts to double ring belay.

  2. 23m (18) Step up slab to easy ground. Trend left and pull over two vertical walls to double ring belay. A 70m rope will get you to the green rope descent, not to the ground.

FA: Matthew Tranter & Jon Soper-Dyer

Pitch 1 is the nicest moderate pitch on the mountain.

Start on the same ledge as 'Far from the Madding Crowd' and 'Road Less Travelled'. Follows the cool looking water runnel up to the mini arête and slab above.

  1. 20m (17) Step into the water runnel, past 4 bolts, using the arête where possible. Step over the vegetated ledge and trend slightly right until appearing on the large ledge. Belay at the double rings shared with 'Road Less Travelled'.

  2. 25m (14) Step right and romp with ease up the slab and boulder above to shared double lower offs.

1 19
2 19

Starts at same ledge as 'Far from the Madding Crowd' and 'The Devils Tears', about 5m further right.

  1. (19) Steep with a hard pull over steep wall, follow the black slab past 5 bolts. Continue past the double ring bolts on the first ledge (possible belay if you want short pitches) and continue up the slab until reaching the large party ledge. Double belay bolts shared with 'The Devils Tears'.

  2. (19) Step left up blank bookend corner at a difficult 21 for the short, on great rock past one ring bolt to double anchors.

6 metres further around the cliff is a small slab of good rock bordered on each side by a crack. The next 4 routes are good quality single pitch moderate slabs.

First route on the mini slab. Pull past horizontal break and then up to the reinforced hold. Micro holds all the way to the final over lap and jugs.

Set by Matt Tranter

FA: Matt Tranter, 19 Dec 2018

Middle of the slab. Thin moves well protected.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2018

Set by Matt Tranter, 2018

Right hand side of the slab. Start on the conveniently positioned old tree trunk. Pull up slab into curving crack, lay back with style and surmount the head wall with care.

Set by Matt Tranter

FFA: Matt Tranter, 18 Dec 2018

2 metres further right. Start on the flake of rock, up the clean slab and over the overlap. Romp to top.

FA: Matt Tranter, 26 May 2019

The following routes are a further 10 metres along the cliff. Pass a spear of rock leaning against the face. (Start of Mad Dogs.)

1 16
2 17
3 17

Start, walk about 40m R of The Road less travelled etc at a body high flake you can just squeeze thru (or walk around).

  1. (16) Start on top of the flake at the bottom of the buttress, high first bolt. Pull with interest onto the wall, 6 bolts to large ledge, lower off here if you're doing the first pitch only, or continue to double rings set back on ledge.

  2. 10m (17) Cross over Orchid Alley to right line of bolts to next large ledge.

  3. 14m (17) Right of top pitch of Orchid Alley, 4 BRs contributed by James Bulititude and then a further 2 bolts through the final head wall. Belay from double rings.

Set by Matt Tranter & James

FA: Matt Tranter, 11 Feb 2018

Great climbing,more smearing and balance than crimping, up a clean water streak. Start, walk about 40m R of The Road less travelled etc to a body high flake you can just squeeze thru (or walk around) (Mad Dogs and Englishmen). Clean black streak 6m right of squeeze. Now easier as it has cleaned up.

  1. 35m (19) Up slab, right at start then go direct past 3rd bolt (out left is mossy). Scramble up to wall 10m above top of slab to belay on 2BB on the left. I lowered down to top of slab to watch second on hard start.

  2. 20m (17) Take left line of bolts, up line and left to 2BB near gully (there is another line of bolts + trad gear on the right).

  3. 35m (14) Up arete and slab to roof, stand on block and step left and pull through bulge and up easy slab to tree.

The following route descriptions could not be located. If you can figure it out, let us know!

Afterthought 23m (9) Halfway down descent gully on right behind wattle trees. Up slab to groove/crack, up this and wall to right, to ledge. Up between cracks. N.Wilson, N.Jacobs Dec 77

Three D 29m (15) At crack about 5m right of descent gully. Up crack to block, up right of block. Righwards onto wall and up slabs to chimney. W.Newton, N.Wilson, Dec 77

Cricket Hat 50m (12) At block leaning against cliff about 15m right of Three D. Up to tree right of blade to corner, up onto ramp to right. Up crack and wall to trees. Right onto wall and up slabs to chimney. N.Wilson, W.Newton, J.Warren Nov 77

Jwan 58m (9) At corner 5m right of Cricket Hat. Up corner and loose rock to another corner, to bushy ledge. Up slab towards crack, just below bush move right onto wall and up. N.Wilson et al Nov 77

Second Thoughts 26m (14) Behind wattle tree about 20m right of 'F'. Up wall to slab, then to trees. Up wall and slab to crack in block, left to crack, up block to top. N.Wilson Jan 78

Goat Track 45m (15) At overhanging corner and wall about 4m right of Second T. N.Wilson, W.Newton Dec 77

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