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North West Columns

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 2-2.5hrs
  • Photos: 118
  • Ascents: 38

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Summary

Large Rhyolite columns offering off-width climbing or face climbing. 2 distinctly different areas, one dominated by columns, the other by a tall, black wall. The star attraction - and the only reason to make the long trek in, is Deep Throat.

Description

Both crags offer multipitch climbing. Porn Buttress is largely undeveloped: not a lot of trad routes here. Legoland offers heaps & as of 2019, heaps of lines to develop.

N.W. facing=it gets sun from mid morning, or Noon (mid-Winter) for Porn Buttress.

Access issues

About half of the walk-in is across private land, please respect that and stay on the designated track, no pets, no cairns or tape marking tracks please.

The National Park boundary starts at the deep gully.

Approach

From the sluice gate, Walk up the hill to the meadow, you will see a forestry fire-track crossing the hiker's path:

turn right and follow the track around below the knoll until it arrives at a grassy paddock:

now start angling upwards till you come to a steep fire-track running up the hill. Head up the steep slope till you join the main fire-track, turn Right & follow this along, crossing several shallow gullies, till you arrive at the deep gully with log retaining steps:

down across this and proceed up "Heartbreak Ridge" on the other side (more log steps):

When you arrive at the start of the ridge above, DO NOT CONTINUE UP THE RIDGE LINE, instead continue Right, down into the gully, across this this to the next ridge. From here (about 30mins), continue traversing across the horrid, nasty scree slope & slightly rising until you arrive at the cliffs.

2-2.5hr approach.

Ethic inherited from Mt Maroon

Sport bolting is a big no-no here. If you place a bolt here, you'd better have a damn good reason, even then, expect it to be chopped.

History

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First developed by Trevor Gynther in 1972. Later developed by Rick White in the mid 70s, then by Mark Gamble,Terry Svingen, Scott Camps & Robert Staszewski in the 2000s.

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