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The Graveyard Ridge

13

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Summary

Single pitch routes along a broken, poor rock face.

Description

Highest routes here are around 50m. No stand-out routes, all very mundane climbing - hardly worth the walk-in.

Routes are arranged L to R (from top to bottom).

Access issues

At least half of the access track in, is across private land. The NP Boundary starts at the big gully.

Please stay on the track, no pets, no cairns or tape to mark the route in. It's pretty straightforward: the North side of Maroon runs East to West.

Approach

Walk up the slope from the sluice gate to the meadow, turn Right at the forestry fire track:

and follow this around below the knoll to a grassy paddock:

angle up at this point till you arrive at a steep fire access track and follow this up the steep slope to where it joins the main fire track and turn Right. Now follow this across several shallow gullies to the big gully with logs as retaining steps and "Heartbreak Ridge" on the other side:

Up the steep slope (more logs) to the ridge above:

now follow the ridge up to The Insigificant Cliff (ca. 110m elevation gain.)

turn Right here & follow the cliff line up the broken slope below The Coffee Shop, to arrive at Paparazzi Cliff & Graveyard Ridge turn-off:

head up towards Paparazzi for about 10-15m, then head out Right, through some Bush Boys & scrub, across a narrow ledge on a short cliff. Continue up the rocky scree slope, keeping the cliff face on your Left, till you arrive at the 5m high corner. Climb this (grade 3), then you have arrived. Make your way up the slope to the cliff. The last/first route: Off The Log will be down on your Right.

Ethic inherited from Mt Maroon

Sport bolting is a big no-no here. If you place a bolt here, you'd better have a damn good reason, even then, expect it to be chopped.

History

View historical timeline

First named by Trevor Gynther in the 70s. Aside from Rick & Chris establishing The Tiger Face Escape Route here in 1968, no development until Herb Brandmeier & John Du Bont developed the cliff in 2005. Mark Gamble established 3 trad routes here later.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
  1. 18 35m - Up the prominent corner with sparse gear. Belay on ridge. The next 2 pitches go up The Tiger Face Annex.

FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1968

Start: 4m Left of Norman, in a small, Left facing corner.

Straight up (tricky mantle), to 2nd small tree, then step Left around the arête & onto face. Left up to tree, then follow diagonal crack up to top-out around Bushboy & large tree.

An assortment of small to medium gear. Rap off same tree as for Norman. A poor route over loose rock.

FA: Mark Gamble & Geoff Lawrie, 2006

Start: 20m Left of Scarface arete & below a crack with a tree in it about 8-10m up.

Up the crack on the RHS to surmount the unprotected bulge (tricky mantle), then step back Left into the crack & up this to tree. Then follow a series of vegetated corners & cracks, steepening to a small overhanging flake, around this, then up Left when possible to the tree & up 5m to large TB.

An assortment of small to medium gear. A manky affair, not worth repeating.

FA: Mark Gamble & Geoff Lawrie, 2006

Start: From TAF, head Left around the corner up a short pillar (4m) to the ledge/alcove above; the route starts in the corner on the Right.

  1. 15 40m - Manky corner to start, leading up Right into corner, then follow weakness up Left, to more mank. Make your way up around the overhanging blocks & up to a Bushboy, then right across onto ledge & belay.

  2. 10 15m - thread your way up Right through the crumbly, friable rock to the top & TB.

Not worth repeating. I took a fall at the top of the left trending rise & zippered the gear, resulting in a piece falling on my face, hence the name was born.

FA: Mark Gamble & Joe Lynch, 2006

FFA: Mark Gamble & David Duffy, 2006

Start 8m Left of TLS.

Take wires and small cams. You can approach the overhang from either side; L. or R. The crux is after the overhang.

(3 RBs, 6 BRs)

FA: Herb & John, 2005

Start: In front of the small tree, around the corner, L of TDOOW.

Up the smooth over-hanging wall, following 8 RBs to chains.

FA: Herb Brandmeier (top rope), 2005

FA: 2005

Start: 2m Left of OTT.

Up blunt the arête. Thin & committing start, up to RB, then #2 cam, then 5 carrots to top.

Take #2 cam + small wires. (old style single axle-cam!)

FA: Alison Greenhalgh, Steve Waite & Herb Brandmeier, 2005

Start: Between the cliff & the tree, 3m Left of BBL.

Up slinging the tree, then step off RHS & up to 1st bolt at 7m. Follow the crack all the way to the top, passing another 4 carrots, or climb the last bit of BBTL.

Some bolts & trad gear.

FA: Steve Waite, Alison Greenhalgh & Herb Brandmeier, 2005

Start: 2m Left of GOAS.

Up crack into shallow V groove (2RBs), then left onto face. Up this passing another 9 carrots.

Take big wires and big cams. Try avoiding it early afternoon because you’ll have the sun directly in your eyes.

FA: Herb Brandmeier, Steve Waite & Alison Greenhalgh, 2005

Climb the arête just Left of HS.

Take a full rack. Big cams. (1 RB, 5 carrots)

FA: Herb Brandmeier & John Du Bont, 2005

Start: 10m Left of GAG.

Climb the face with the diagonal cracks to the Right of the wedged-in tree. Then up to the big corner to the top.

All trad up a classic crack-line.

FA: John Du Bont & Herb Brandmeier, 2005

Start: behind the log just Left of OTL, below the RB.

Up to RB, then up as far as you can go, after 9th runner, move Right onto OTL to finish.

Take small cams. (! RB, 12 carrots)

FA: Herb Brandmeier & John Du Bont, 2005

Start: At the fallen log against the cliff.

Get up onto the log the best way you can and head up the crack [gear]. First BR is about 10m up.

Take 15 runners min., and a full rack. No big cams. 9 carrots.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & John Du Bont, 2005

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