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Summary
90m high at its highest point, dominated by the Frogmouth Cave in the middle. North facing, it gets the sun all day long.
Routes are arranged L to R.
Description
Rock quality varies, super soft ignimbrite in the Frogmouth Cave, to quite hard on the face.
Access issues inherited from Mt Maroon
Access from the carpark at Cotswold Rd. to the National Park is across gazetted private land - from the sluice gate:
East Face - Sluice gate
walk up roughly 400m to the National Parks sign:
East Face - Maroon National Park boundary
This is the start of the National Park. Visitors are urged to stay on the path or use established tracks, rather than blazing a new trail.
Approach
The most direct approach: walk up the hiker's track till you arrive at the treeline, keep walking for another 200m until you see the first QPWS sign:
Tiger Face - 20200801_160941-R.jpg
Walk back about 30m & you'll see a faint trail on the Right.
Nympho Buttress - N.E. Crags access track
Follow this trail down to & across the gully & up the steep slope opposite, following the cairns & track, till you see the rocky outcrop, this will bring you to the top lh side of The Hourglass Cliffs.
Following this pathway, the NP boundary starts around the gully & steep walk up.
Ethic inherited from Mt Maroon
Sport bolting is a big no-no here. If you place a bolt here, you'd better have a damn good reason, even then, expect it to be chopped.
History
First developed by Trevor Gynther & Tony Kelly in 1972, who pegged their way up Peregrine Assault, later in the 70s by Trevor & Robert Staszewski, with Hourglass. Mark Plenderleith & Denise Crook established a mixed route here in the 90s. In 2010, Herb Brandmeier & John Du Bont established 8 routes here.
Plan your Trip
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9377779499658
Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.
Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2018
ISBN: 9780958079068
A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Genevieve Kieseker at Grey Wall - 20200822_125220.jpg
Grey Wall - 20190219_135121.jpg
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The Hourglass Cliffs - Hourglass Cliffs - overlaps-2
Wed 19 Apr
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